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Old 07-19-2010, 02:06 PM   #331
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How easy does the new front end setup? Meaning is getting it even side to side a reasonable feat? A little out of wack goes a long way in a 12th scale. Looks very good though. Interested in total cost whenever that's determined.
It is very easy to set up. There is no more reactive caster as it is not a strut front end anymore. The static caster adjusts the same way with just shims on the upper hinge pin. Camber adjustment is the same. You can adjust roll center by simply shimming the cross plate or shimming the outer ball. Ride height is adjusted by just tightening or loosening the screws in the front flex plates. You then remove the excess droop with the droop screws once your ride height is set. Everything pretty much falls into place. It is very smooth, adjustable, and very user friendly. You will be very pleased.
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:07 PM   #332
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Also, if your ride height is off just a little on one side, you adjust it with the set screw in the flex plate. Very simple.
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:09 PM   #333
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I will be making the final changes and taking good clear pics for the press release. I will post them here also.
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:34 PM   #334
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There is no more reactive caster as it is not a strut front end anymore.
I'm sure you know this already but you don't have to have a strut front end to have reactive caster. Angling the arms works just the same way with dual arms. In fact, my 1/8th scale onroad car has a bit of reactive caster in it right now
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:08 PM   #335
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I didnt want reactive caster in it. Caster angles needed in 4wd vs 2wd cars with double wishsbone style front suspension is completely different. 2wd cars need more. Reducing caster when compressing the suspension(ie sweepers) would not help in the slightest without any roll center change. All it would do is create push.
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:12 PM   #336
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So Jason, basicly what you're saying with a strut front end you should use the 0 deg. caster blocks?
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:16 PM   #337
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I used 0's or 5's. I never bothered with 10's. Too much caster reduction.
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:17 PM   #338
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I used 0's or 5's. I never bothered with 10's. Too much caster reduction.
Same here. I wasn't saying it needed reactive caster, just that it could be done,
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:18 PM   #339
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haha, yeah, i know.
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:29 PM   #340
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It is very easy to set up. There is no more reactive caster as it is not a strut front end anymore. The static caster adjusts the same way with just shims on the upper hinge pin. Camber adjustment is the same. You can adjust roll center by simply shimming the cross plate or shimming the outer ball. Ride height is adjusted by just tightening or loosening the screws in the front flex plates. You then remove the excess droop with the droop screws once your ride height is set. Everything pretty much falls into place. It is very smooth, adjustable, and very user friendly. You will be very pleased.
Looks like you could also adjust dive/anti-dive by putting shims under the pivots
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:32 PM   #341
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Looks like you could also adjust dive/anti-dive by putting shims under the pivots
That is correct I havent tried it yet though. I had a few hours on saturday so far. We have a real nice carpet track opening here in florida so i should be able to complete testing within the next 2 weeks.
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:36 PM   #342
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I'm jealous!
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:20 PM   #343
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That is correct I havent tried it yet though. I had a few hours on saturday so far. We have a real nice carpet track opening here in florida so i should be able to complete testing within the next 2 weeks.
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:34 PM   #344
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Just out of curiosity, how thick are those lower arms? They look really beefy, which I like.
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:45 PM   #345
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The new front end looks really nice Jason, kudos.
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