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Old 01-09-2012, 10:26 AM   #2371
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well i ran yesterd day i had a little more luck got 45 laps. I tried a lot of changes and practiced alot but i just cant get this car to rotate. And scrubing to much speed in the turns.
Front :

12r5
.20 springs
1 camber
magenta with 1/3 sauced
42mm trued edges not glued
flat servo
.5 deg toe out
caster is thick shim in front thin in rear i think thats 3.25
4mm ride height
167.8 width

Rear
Shock mount in center holes
Medium ball stud
60wt oil
Blue shock spring
Shurlube 3 in tubes
1mm pod drop
pink rears full sauced
43mm
171.3 width

I tryed gold spring but didnt help i tryed more and less caster but didnt feel as good. tryed orange rears but then i didnt have the rear grip. i tryed thick shock oil and that seemed to help some. Also tryed stiffen the rear links to short hole but then didnt wanna turn had turn dual rate up about to almost 70. i thought maybe was me and let the real fast guys drive it and they still where almost sec slower then theres
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Last edited by markiemark; 01-09-2012 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:36 PM   #2372
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Is there a conversion kit for the original 4cell car to the current copperhead12?
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:18 PM   #2373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markiemark View Post
well i ran yesterd day i had a little more luck got 45 laps. I tried a lot of changes and practiced alot but i just cant get this car to rotate. And scrubing to much speed in the turns.
Front :

12r5
.20 springs
1 camber
magenta with 1/3 sauced
42mm trued edges not glued
flat servo
.5 deg toe out
caster is thick shim in front thin in rear i think thats 3.25
4mm ride height
167.8 width

Rear
Shock mount in center holes
Medium ball stud
60wt oil
Blue shock spring
Shurlube 3 in tubes
1mm pod drop
pink rears full sauced
43mm
171.3 width

I tryed gold spring but didnt help i tryed more and less caster but didnt feel as good. tryed orange rears but then i didnt have the rear grip. i tryed thick shock oil and that seemed to help some. Also tryed stiffen the rear links to short hole but then didnt wanna turn had turn dual rate up about to almost 70. i thought maybe was me and let the real fast guys drive it and they still where almost sec slower then theres
Ok not quite what you were hoping for but still a one lap improvment so not all bad. When you tried the orange rears what center spring did you have in place? I really think you need to run the orange rears and set the center spring hard, I've been running a red or copper spring on mine. The orange rears will allow the car to rotate and the stiff center spring will not allow the car to unload and lose the rear traction. Now I come from a T-bar background so I like the car to have that firm center and leave the side soft so thats how I setup my cars, I say that just so you can understand my thought process. If your real comfortable with the tire combo you have(mag/pink) then I'd suggest trying some softer front and/or center spring/oil combos. That will allow the car to unload abit more and help rotate, you'll just have to play with it to find something that works but does'nt upset the balance too much and lose the rear grip.

Edited to add: I also would recomend going to 1 1/2 neg camber and slightly reduce the reactive caster, try these in stages.
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:37 PM   #2374
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im running a blue center cause i thought softer spring would give more grip with the oranges. So does a softer or harder center spring keep the car planted

Also i drove a few cars with side springs instead of flex links seem to rotate better but there was still planted. Alot of guys with 12r5.1 and griffins and crc all are running mag pink with no issues. im try few more things maybe get it might try double dbl pink fronts since magentas i barley have to sauce.
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Last edited by markiemark; 01-09-2012 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:30 PM   #2375
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If the traction is decent, i would glue the sidewalls up front. Run maximum caster w/ the blocks at 5 degrees of reactive caster. Run the shock in the shortest postion on the chassis that will allow for 2 screws to mount. Run the 1.2mm flex plates in long postion. Add camber to pick up some steering. Try going to 1.5 degrees of camber. Camber is a huge adjustment for adding steering. Too little camber for a given setup will make the car push bad and feel like it is not rotating. .020 front springs work great and make sure you put #3 shurlube on the kingpins and shim the kingpins to have a slight bit of droop.

If you are running 13.5 boosted, stick with the pink rears but if you are running 17.5, Your tire combo is hurting you. For 17.5 Blinky I would go with Orange rears and gray fronts. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:56 PM   #2376
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Another question for ya markiemark .. how does your diff feel??
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:03 PM   #2377
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Thanks so much jason do you think the 60wt blue spring is the best combo. the track is id say medium grip has it has about 8 days of 12th scale racing and there is a good groove but there are going change the layouy and we will be back to a green layout again.
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:07 PM   #2378
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Another question for ya markiemark .. how does your diff feel??
butter smooth i got it all worked out and sanded rings cleaned and lubed with crc gear and 16 3/32 balls. i was thinkin diff issues but i had few guys fell it and said felt perfect..
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:28 PM   #2379
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Default .020 front springs?????

markiemark which car are you running? A CH12 with an Associated FE?
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:26 PM   #2380
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markiemark which car are you running? A CH12 with an Associated FE?
yes sir.
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:28 PM   #2381
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Thanks so much jason do you think the 60wt blue spring is the best combo. the track is id say medium grip has it has about 8 days of 12th scale racing and there is a good groove but there are going change the layouy and we will be back to a green layout again.
60 is good. I would go to a gold spring though. What class are you running? Always keep in mind that tire choice is about 80% of set up. Wrong tires will make the best car the worst.

If you have a decent number of guys running, the grip should come back up pretty decent after a day or 2 of running. Once you find a setup that works for you, you wont need to veer too far from it. Slight changes for each condition will be all really.
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:58 PM   #2382
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17.5 blinky Alright thanks so much i was just tryng run the tires i see everyone else running thats ahead of me lol. But they are running different cars also. Ill get a set of grey and yellow crc in and try it out. Also im running a crc r8c body just to add a lil info.. So does a stiffer spring or harder spring add grip to the rear end???? Tryin do it on my own and looking at others have on there cars but dont really know what im doing......
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:39 AM   #2383
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17.5 blinky doesnt really need a high rubber content tire. I dont know your track conditions but i normally would never run anything other than synthetic tires for 17.5.
Softening the center spring does increase rear traction. The down side is when the bite comes up it can make the car darty also. I found this out at our local track. I always seem to settle on the gold. This is AE springs of course. I know CRC spring colors are different rates than AE.
What you need is to try the suggestions i made and see if they work for your track. Let me know the days and times you go to race and maybe we can set up a phone conversation while you are at the track to walk you through changes. We want to get you up and running and your setup where it needs to be so you can be competitive. You will get there buddy.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:52 AM   #2384
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Jason,
Can parts for for the older cars DB 10R and DB 12RR be ordered?
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:16 AM   #2385
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thanks so much jason. Iv been working with a guy that use to run the ch12 last year and has got me close. Also jaco dosnt make gray fronts do you think dbl pink and oranges would be just as good?
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