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Old 11-29-2011, 10:29 PM   #2281
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I've been thinking about getting one of thes cars for sometime now. I'm a little confused on how there is no tweak when using the flex plates. Can some explain it to me. I guess I don't really understand how it all works.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:35 PM   #2282
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It's a matter of getting the electronics, ect. balanced out correctly and that's it. Someone else can probably give a more technical description... but as i understand it the flex plates have the tension they need by design. They always go right back to where they need to be. Get the chassis balanced out and it will always be spot on regardless of what direction it's turning.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:38 AM   #2283
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I've been thinking about getting one of thes cars for sometime now. I'm a little confused on how there is no tweak when using the flex plates. Can some explain it to me. I guess I don't really understand how it all works.
I think he's actually doing an tweakable version by request

Otherwise like nf_ekt said balance and exact tire size and car should always be tweaked given there is no current damage to car
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:40 AM   #2284
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I've been thinking about getting one of thes cars for sometime now. I'm a little confused on how there is no tweak when using the flex plates. Can some explain it to me. I guess I don't really understand how it all works.
Jason would be the best to give a technical answer but in laymans terms nf_ekt is correct. The links provide the tension or spring action so the design is free floating and thus will always return to center. How fast thay recenter is dependent on which side link is in use. Now over time the links do wear out just as a spring does so if once in a great while you might notice a tweak from the links changing their rebound rate, simple to replace and your back in business. But other than that or a bent/broken part the rear pod allways stays centered. Hths.
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:44 PM   #2285
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So my CH12 has been working awesome for the past several months on magenta front and rear. Over the past two weeks (which I have not been able to run) the track conditions have changed with about a 20 deg temp drop. Last night I tried grey rear black front and that seemed to work well but was loosing about half a sec per lap. Others were running gray lows and black or purple fronts.

Was that the right direction or no? Should I have tried Pink double pinks? Should be looking at doing anything with the car itself?

Oh the track has no traction at all, I was just spinning out. With magenta front and rears I was able to run my fastest lap times ever in the first 2 minutes and after that could not turn the car at all. I required the whole track and then some just to slowly get the car around. When on the gray black it did ok just not fast enough. For the main I had hoped traction came back and went back to the magenta all round and it would just spin out with absolutely not control so I did not even run the main as I did not want to break anything on the car.
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:35 PM   #2286
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So my CH12 has been working awesome for the past several months on magenta front and rear. Over the past two weeks (which I have not been able to run) the track conditions have changed with about a 20 deg temp drop. Last night I tried grey rear black front and that seemed to work well but was loosing about half a sec per lap. Others were running gray lows and black or purple fronts.

Was that the right direction or no? Should I have tried Pink double pinks? Should be looking at doing anything with the car itself?

Oh the track has no traction at all, I was just spinning out. With magenta front and rears I was able to run my fastest lap times ever in the first 2 minutes and after that could not turn the car at all. I required the whole track and then some just to slowly get the car around. When on the gray black it did ok just not fast enough. For the main I had hoped traction came back and went back to the magenta all round and it would just spin out with absolutely not control so I did not even run the main as I did not want to break anything on the car.
go and run black fronts and yellow rears . that combo works great up here and outside temps have been in the upper 30's at night and we race in an old airplane hanger that has no heat. haha im sure this set-up will work great for you.
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:59 PM   #2287
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Post up the setup you have on the car. Jeffs suggestion should work but mabe a setup change is in order also. The track I run at has an indoor dirt track(run dry) five ft away from the carpet, needless to say our grip is usually marginal at best. Because of that I have had success running magenta ft orange rear with a red center spring. Its an odd combo I know but in my unique situation it works.
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Old 12-01-2011, 02:59 PM   #2288
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Post up the setup you have on the car. Jeffs suggestion should work but mabe a setup change is in order also. The track I run at has an indoor dirt track(run dry) five ft away from the carpet, needless to say our grip is usually marginal at best. Because of that I have had success running magenta ft orange rear with a red center spring. Its an odd combo I know but in my unique situation it works.
It could be odd, or ugly setup: but if it works then it works..... I mean look at traxxas!
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:05 PM   #2289
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Post up the setup you have on the car. Jeffs suggestion should work but mabe a setup change is in order also. The track I run at has an indoor dirt track(run dry) five ft away from the carpet, needless to say our grip is usually marginal at best. Because of that I have had success running magenta ft orange rear with a red center spring. Its an odd combo I know but in my unique situation it works.
It's not so bad anymore. I can run Pink rears now and not have any problems.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:57 PM   #2290
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I first picked up BMI Copperhead12 and became second in the competition of 12 riders with us. Some of them have more than 3 years racing experience. And it really is an incredible machine.

Thank you Jason!

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Old 12-01-2011, 11:58 PM   #2291
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Grats man well done!
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:54 AM   #2292
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Default Clamp hub screw and new wheel size questions

Can anyone tell me what size the left side clamp hub screw is? Mine is stripped and I had to gut a groove in it to use a flathead screwdriver to get it off - less than ideal.

12th scale is kind of dead in my area, but I look forward to getting this car on the track and having some fun. Been a while since I ran 12th scale. I am quite impressed with the speed that a 1S pack / 17.5 motor with boost can achieve. Painting body today hopefully some track time this weekend.

I was also wondering what is the largest wheel size that you would consider running on asphalt in a practice scenario. I see so many cars in pictures with the wheels shaved nearly to the rim - I hate to do that to a new set of tires.
I took a new set of Jacos down to 42.5 mm tonight - lot of rubber on the floor Seems like a decent starting point.

Thanks for any help on that screw bolt.

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Old 12-02-2011, 05:22 AM   #2293
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Originally Posted by Ooxus View Post
I first picked up BMI Copperhead12 and became second in the competition of 12 riders with us. Some of them have more than 3 years racing experience. And it really is an incredible machine.

Thank you Jason!

Great to hear buddy. Congrats. Thank you for going with BMI.
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Old 12-02-2011, 05:25 AM   #2294
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Can anyone tell me what size the left side clamp hub screw is? Mine is stripped and I had to gut a groove in it to use a flathead screwdriver to get it off - less than ideal.

12th scale is kind of dead in my area, but I look forward to getting this car on the track and having some fun. Been a while since I ran 12th scale. I am quite impressed with the speed that a 1S pack / 17.5 motor with boost can achieve. Painting body today hopefully some track time this weekend.

I was also wondering what is the largest wheel size that you would consider running on asphalt in a practice scenario. I see so many cars in pictures with the wheels shaved nearly to the rim - I hate to do that to a new set of tires.
I took a new set of Jacos down to 42.5 mm tonight - lot of rubber on the floor Seems like a decent starting point.

Thanks for any help on that screw bolt.

Clay
The screw is 3-48. Very odd size. If you need them, i do have them in stock. You do not need to buy a new hub.

On asphalt, if the bite isnt very high, i just run my tires at 1.750 front and 1.800 rear. If the bite is high, i hate to say but you will need to bring them down pretty small.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:24 AM   #2295
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I first picked up BMI Copperhead12 and became second in the competition of 12 riders with us. Some of them have more than 3 years racing experience. And it really is an incredible machine.

Thank you Jason!

Nice paint, I like it!
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