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Old 03-14-2011, 02:51 PM   #1696
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Hey everyone just would like to let you know i really got a chance to get some time in with the ch12 this last weekend and got a really great set-up at the moment for med grip carpet.The track was bumpy so had to run a higher ride hieght than normal and more pod droop. HANDS DOWN THE BEST CAR I HAVE DRIVEN!!! . no joke!

here is my set-up:

front-
-1deg camber
0 toe
middle setting on castor
no shims under arm mount with standard post
4mm ride hieght
1mm droop
1.5mm flex plates firm position.
#4 shurlube in tube
169mm track width
laid down servo with tall silver ballstuds on spindles.

tires: bsr magentas 40.5mm( 1.594in) sauced 3/4 of tire
glued at the rim

rear-
30wt ae oil
crc white spring
4mm ride hieght
2mm pod droop / zero chassis sag
#4 shur lube in tubes
1.2mm carbon side links long position (soft)
172mm track width
tires: bsr magentas. 42.5mm (1.673in) full sauce.
glued at the rim.

body: protoform lightwieght amr-12

this set-up is very easy to drive and great cornerspeed . tires were great the entire 8 min.

BMI FOR LIFE!
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:35 PM   #1697
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Awesome Jeff...I'm still trying to zero in on the setup for our new track myself and am not quite there yet. The car just has too much steering right now. I've got a couple more ideas I want to try but finding the time on a race day isn't easy. Next race I may run only 1/12th just to have the time to work on setup.

One thing I have really been having a problem with on the NFE is the set screw on the spring keeps backing out on one side. I've tried Locktite but that doesn't seem to be working. I might try putting a 4-40 nut under the flex plate as a jam nut.
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:41 PM   #1698
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Awesome Jeff...I'm still trying to zero in on the setup for our new track myself and am not quite there yet. The car just has too much steering right now. I've got a couple more ideas I want to try but finding the time on a race day isn't easy. Next race I may run only 1/12th just to have the time to work on setup.

One thing I have really been having a problem with on the NFE is the set screw on the spring keeps backing out on one side. I've tried Locktite but that doesn't seem to be working. I might try putting a 4-40 nut under the flex plate as a jam nut.
actually there was a couple times where my ride hieght screws in the flex plate seemed to have backed out slightly and reduced ride hieght during the run by .5mm but then i put a dab of super glue on the flex plate and the screw that way it stays put and i didnt have to touch it after that. you dont have to remove the set screws just put the glue on the O.D. of the threads and the flax plate. problem solved. very easy and simple.
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:18 PM   #1699
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Jeff, what class are you running with that setup?
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:42 PM   #1700
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actually there was a couple times where my ride hieght screws in the flex plate seemed to have backed out slightly and reduced ride hieght during the run by .5mm but then i put a dab of super glue on the flex plate and the screw that way it stays put and i didnt have to touch it after that. you dont have to remove the set screws just put the glue on the O.D. of the threads and the flax plate. problem solved. very easy and simple.
Were you able to adjust the screw after that though?
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:49 PM   #1701
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Jeff, what class are you running with that setup?
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:50 PM   #1702
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Were you able to adjust the screw after that though?
haha.. yes you are able to adjust the screw. they are then tight from that point on.
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Old 03-14-2011, 07:13 PM   #1703
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
HANDS DOWN THE BEST CAR I HAVE DRIVEN!!! . no joke!
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Please, tell us something we don’t know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
One thing I have really been having a problem with on the NFE is the set screw on the spring keeps backing out on one side. I've tried Locktite but that doesn't seem to be working. I might try putting a 4-40 nut under the flex plate as a jam nut.
I use wheel nut as lock nut on ride height & droop screws and it works great.
Other thing we’ve tried was to use metric screws from TC. Metric screws are very tight fit so they have less chance of screw it self out.
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:18 PM   #1704
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Awesome Jeff...I'm still trying to zero in on the setup for our new track myself and am not quite there yet. The car just has too much steering right now. I've got a couple more ideas I want to try but finding the time on a race day isn't easy. Next race I may run only 1/12th just to have the time to work on setup.
could you post your complete set-up so we can look at it and help ya out with trying to tame down your front end.
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:23 PM   #1705
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Please, tell us something we don’t know.
...

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I use wheel nut as lock nut on ride height & droop screws and it works great.
Other thing we’ve tried was to use metric screws from TC. Metric screws are very tight fit so they have less chance of screw it self out.
that is a good idea. will look cleaner as well.
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:05 AM   #1706
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could you post your complete set-up so we can look at it and help ya out with trying to tame down your front end.
Ok this is mostly from memory but it should be pretty accurate:

Front:
Stock standoffs
Caster: both shims front, arms all the way back
Camber: 1.5*
1.8 flex plates in the stiff position
30k oil in the damper
.5* toe out...have tried 1* toe in as well
angled servo
1mm droop (have tried .5mm droop too)
Tires: Dbl Pink

Rear:
Spring: Blue (currently). It is better with blue but with how bumpy and banked our track is the car bottoms out more.
oil: 35wt? Not sure on that...been awhile since I rebuilt it
1.2 rear flex plates
10k oil in the damper
1mm droop
Shock mount: About 2mm higher than the stock medium ball stud for battery clearance.
Tires: Magenta

Last race I full sauced the rears and none of the fronts...the car was better but not where I need it to be. I've got to turn down the steering so far that when I'm just barely moving I can't turn around within the lane but once I get moving I have a ton of steering. I'm using the Speed 8 HD body.

I've never had this much problems getting the car dialed in in the past...usually I'm good on steering or trying to get more but at the track I am at now I've just got a ton of steering that I can't seem to get rid of.
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:12 AM   #1707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Ok this is mostly from memory but it should be pretty accurate:

Front:
Stock standoffs
Caster: both shims front, arms all the way back try middle caster position.
Camber: 1.5* try -1deg still too much steering try -.5deg
1.8 flex plates in the stiff position
30k oil in the damper
.5* toe out...have tried 1* toe in as well
angled servo try servo laid down with the tall silver ball studs on spindles.
1mm droop (have tried .5mm droop too)
Tires: Dbl Pink go with a harder front tire. lilac or black

also what is yourfront track width. i would recommend running anywhere from 167-169mm in the front and 172mm rear.

Rear:
Spring: Blue (currently). It is better with blue but with how bumpy and banked our track is the car bottoms out more.
oil: 35wt? Not sure on that...been awhile since I rebuilt it
1.2 rear flex plates
10k oil in the damper
1mm droop try 1.5-2mm droop as you said its really bumpy.
Shock mount: About 2mm higher than the stock medium ball stud for battery clearance. add 2mm to the rear ball stud to keep the stock angle.
Tires: Magenta try softer rear tire like pink , yellow or white.

Last race I full sauced the rears and none of the fronts...the car was better but not where I need it to be. I've got to turn down the steering so far that when I'm just barely moving I can't turn around within the lane but once I get moving I have a ton of steering. I'm using the Speed 8 HD body.

I've never had this much problems getting the car dialed in in the past...usually I'm good on steering or trying to get more but at the track I am at now I've just got a ton of steering that I can't seem to get rid of.
put a few suggestions in red above in the quote. my question is what class are you running and what was your ride hieght front and rear and if there was any pod sag? what is the grip like at your track ? low,med or high . about the tires a popular choice for many in my area is black fronts and yellow rears . hope this helps ya out.
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:01 AM   #1708
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Those are all pretty much what I had planned on trying but I need to get other tire compounds to try out...no one carries them out here so it will be when I can order again. I'm not running any shims on the axles so front track width is a bit on the narrow side. Ride height is 4.5mm all around. I had planned on trying the flat servo but didn't have the ball studs to do it yet...but I got to thinking I might be able to do the same thing by turning over the knuckles...something to look at anyway. 1* camber I get too much coning...at 1.5* the wear is pretty even. This is on an outdoor asphault track treated with sugar water.
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:18 AM   #1709
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on the bmiracing.com site jason carries the bsr tires in a bunch of different compounds. and he also has the bsallstuds available on the site as well. but you can try flipping the knuckles when going to use your existing ball studs. might put the ball slightly higher than the tall ball stud set-up . havent tried it so not sure.

i would really highly recomend the spacers behind the axles to get the front track width wider that will help you out alot right there. i would call up the bmi shop and get ahold of jason as he makes the correct spacers for behind the axles . they are 2mm thick and they go over the 6-32 threads on the axle. they will change your life as well as 2-3 people around you. j/p but they do make a big difference.
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:23 AM   #1710
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Go with a pink rear tire and Lilac(BSR is Team purple) front. Leave them full size out of the box. Also use thin,runny suntan lotion on top of your tire treatment. I treat the tires for 10 minutes and then add suntan lotion over it and leave it on until i race. One more thing i do is i run the pod .5-1mm higher at the front of the pod. Almost like anti squat. Really ties the rear down. The pod droop and ride height remain the same, its just that at ride height, the pod is tilted with the front being a little higher.
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