Looking to get into 1/12 scale
03-09-2010, 08:46 PM
#16
Tech Master
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If you are getting an 12r5.1 just get the Xray XII LINK type. Its a little pricey but quality is far better than AE who lately merged with thunger tiger and I been finding some flaws in all of my latest AE kits. I Might sell my 12r5 converted to 5.1. It has the yokomo brace hop ups and full tamiya blue screws
I would recommend to stick with either the Associated 12R5.1 or the CRC Gen XL.
hotdognobun,
If you are planning to purchase a Xray IIX Link 1/12 Scale, I would recommend to stick with what you have, it is far better than the current Xray platform.
Unless you want to modify this and that, etc ......... and poof it is a 12R5.1, I just hate to see you go backwards.
Best Regards,
Alex
03-10-2010, 12:06 AM
#17
03-10-2010, 10:44 AM
#19
A word of caution...If you get the AE make sure to have a good shock like the Silva, CRC, or IRS as a back up. That is the weak point in the car, other than that it's a great car.
But I'm with Chris in recommending the BMI. I'm looking forward to the new version coming out and very interested to see what the new BMI front end will be.
But I'm with Chris in recommending the BMI. I'm looking forward to the new version coming out and very interested to see what the new BMI front end will be.
03-10-2010, 10:49 AM
#20
Tech Master
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Please don't get me wrong, Xray as a company has always prided themselves with providing the consumer with the highest quality of cars out there, although when they progressed forward with there 1/12 Scale Link car....... they really missed the boat.
If the consumer (you & I) would have to buy a kit and make massive amounts of changes to the front and rear end of the car, just to achieve the proper ride height …………. then I would consider this a base engineering design flaw.
As an engineer myself, I just can’t see spending money for a kit that inherently needs to be placed through a metamorphoses of changes just to make it compete.
I would recommend visiting your local track and evaluating the availability of parts, setup support, and eventually cost for the components, then hopefully you could make an educated opinion as to what is best for your situation.
Best Regards to your future endeavor in 1/12 Scale.
Alex
If the consumer (you & I) would have to buy a kit and make massive amounts of changes to the front and rear end of the car, just to achieve the proper ride height …………. then I would consider this a base engineering design flaw.
As an engineer myself, I just can’t see spending money for a kit that inherently needs to be placed through a metamorphoses of changes just to make it compete.
I would recommend visiting your local track and evaluating the availability of parts, setup support, and eventually cost for the components, then hopefully you could make an educated opinion as to what is best for your situation.
Best Regards to your future endeavor in 1/12 Scale.
Alex
03-10-2010, 04:51 PM
#21
I've driven both - the AE car would be more manageable for a first-time 1/12 scale driver. The XRay, unless a host of modifications are made, can be a real handful. Personally, I'd recommend the CRC or the BMI chassis, as they both work very well and respond well to chassis adjustments.
03-11-2010, 09:31 AM
#23
i would also reccomend the BMI, its a super easy chassis to drive and is the most durable 12th scale out there, i get at least another lap running my bmi over any other chassis because it just goes where you want it to, this chassis takes a corner like a t-plate car but will forgive mistakes in a driving line, plus it already comes with the front end hopped up with irs stuff
aside from being the smoothest driving chassis period its by far the best bang for the buck
http://bmiracing.com/bmiv4/index.php...d=12&Itemid=26
the bmi uses the old tried and true standard front end and rear axle making it super easy to find parts for if you do happen to break anything
ive found the 12r5 has a weak point in the front suspension getting sloppy way too fast, on the fence with this chassis, and ive ran assoc for the past 10 years just dont like thier new stuff
the xray is just a 12r5 clone, xray plastics are awesome sadly plastics are actually hpi, i give it 2 thumbs down
i loved how my crc chassis handled but found it just didnt cut it, some parts of the chassis will crack and delaminate due to how its made, 2 thumbs down
aside from being the smoothest driving chassis period its by far the best bang for the buck
http://bmiracing.com/bmiv4/index.php...d=12&Itemid=26
the bmi uses the old tried and true standard front end and rear axle making it super easy to find parts for if you do happen to break anything
ive found the 12r5 has a weak point in the front suspension getting sloppy way too fast, on the fence with this chassis, and ive ran assoc for the past 10 years just dont like thier new stuff
the xray is just a 12r5 clone, xray plastics are awesome sadly plastics are actually hpi, i give it 2 thumbs down
i loved how my crc chassis handled but found it just didnt cut it, some parts of the chassis will crack and delaminate due to how its made, 2 thumbs down
03-11-2010, 09:45 AM
#24
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...o-edition.html
check this one out. Mint shape and over $200 on parts.
check this one out. Mint shape and over $200 on parts.
03-11-2010, 01:04 PM
#25
Calandra Racing
The car you should buy is the one that most of the successful racers at your local track are using. You'll get lots of setup help and support.
The car you should buy is the one that most of the successful racers at your local track are using. You'll get lots of setup help and support.
03-11-2010, 01:11 PM
#26
Dont mean to interupt but we are about to release our new 1/12th car if you decide to go that route. I have started a new thread on here for support and info. I posted some pics on there also so you can see what we offer. Its called the copperhead 12. 
03-12-2010, 06:04 PM
#27
so in order to run the 12th scale cars you half to have the a smart boost on the car for the reciever? i have the tekin rs and was told i dont need to use it on the car. not sure if thats true or not
03-12-2010, 07:52 PM
#28
If you use the Tekin RS/RS Pro (and you should 
), do NOT use the Novak Smart Boost voltage booster. Many Tekin users have experienced "brown outs" during periods of high current draw from the main battery pack, causing the ESC to reboot itself while driving the car. The Smart Boost has a built-in low voltage cutoff circuit that isn't adjustable, which is the source of the problem. TQ Cells makes a 5V booster that works well, takes up little space and wires up easily, or you could try the Trinity/Epic 220 mah LiFe receiver pack which won't send too much voltage to your radio gear.
), do NOT use the Novak Smart Boost voltage booster. Many Tekin users have experienced "brown outs" during periods of high current draw from the main battery pack, causing the ESC to reboot itself while driving the car. The Smart Boost has a built-in low voltage cutoff circuit that isn't adjustable, which is the source of the problem. TQ Cells makes a 5V booster that works well, takes up little space and wires up easily, or you could try the Trinity/Epic 220 mah LiFe receiver pack which won't send too much voltage to your radio gear.
03-12-2010, 11:18 PM
#29
The Pope NJ,
I would recommend to stick with either the Associated 12R5.1 or the CRC Gen XL.
hotdognobun,
If you are planning to purchase a Xray IIX Link 1/12 Scale, I would recommend to stick with what you have, it is far better than the current Xray platform.
Unless you want to modify this and that, etc ......... and poof it is a 12R5.1, I just hate to see you go backwards.
Best Regards,
Alex
I would recommend to stick with either the Associated 12R5.1 or the CRC Gen XL.
hotdognobun,
If you are planning to purchase a Xray IIX Link 1/12 Scale, I would recommend to stick with what you have, it is far better than the current Xray platform.
Unless you want to modify this and that, etc ......... and poof it is a 12R5.1, I just hate to see you go backwards.
Best Regards,
Alex
03-12-2010, 11:20 PM
#30
If you use the Tekin RS/RS Pro (and you should ), do NOT use the Novak Smart Boost voltage booster. Many Tekin users have experienced "brown outs" during periods of high current draw from the main battery pack, causing the ESC to reboot itself while driving the car. The Smart Boost has a built-in low voltage cutoff circuit that isn't adjustable, which is the source of the problem. TQ Cells makes a 5V booster that works well, takes up little space and wires up easily, or you could try the Trinity/Epic 220 mah LiFe receiver pack which won't send too much voltage to your radio gear.
), do NOT use the Novak Smart Boost voltage booster. Many Tekin users have experienced "brown outs" during periods of high current draw from the main battery pack, causing the ESC to reboot itself while driving the car. The Smart Boost has a built-in low voltage cutoff circuit that isn't adjustable, which is the source of the problem. TQ Cells makes a 5V booster that works well, takes up little space and wires up easily, or you could try the Trinity/Epic 220 mah LiFe receiver pack which won't send too much voltage to your radio gear. 
