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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-14-2005, 11:20 AM   #14881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTolle
Cypress, are you going to run at WOH this winter?
I'll probably be back down after the Indoor Champs. Not being able to run Paragon, and the relatively low turn-out have kept traction too low for it to be a viable testing facility in preparation for Cleveland. I'll e-mail you and let you know when pulfer and I might be down again.
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Old 10-14-2005, 12:47 PM   #14882
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Gray is 29
White is 25


Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
That chart is not right.

Platinum is 25
Pink is 30
Dbl Pink is 35
Purple is 40

I forgot what Gray and White are but they are soft.
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Old 10-14-2005, 12:50 PM   #14883
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Hmm.. I assume higher the number is, harder, right?

White = 25
Platinum = 25
Gray = 29
Pink = 30
Dbl Pink = 35
Purple = 40

So.. what's different between white and platinum?
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Old 10-14-2005, 03:09 PM   #14884
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different foam families.
Platinums, Pinks, Magentas(dbl. Pinks as Jaco calls them), Purples all are the same with the difference being shore rating. These have a higher "natural rubber" content.

Whites, Grays, Blacks (Tans by Trinity), Oranges, Red are all the same foam family which is called exotic foam. It has less natural rubber than the above family but they are softer and seem to provide more grip overall.
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Old 10-14-2005, 05:01 PM   #14885
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This can't be right surely.....

I was just doing the first rebuild of my 1/12th and I notice the motor doesn't run parallel to the axel (I should have spotted this during construction ).

I appears as if the moldings on the pinion end of the motor can (Orion Element 19t) don't allow the motor to sit totally flush against the motor pod so the pinion ends up pulling the spur inline once it gets to about 10-15% drive power.

I'm guessing this will maybe result in odd spur wear patterns lol.

Shouldn't they both be inline to start with/how would this effect (if any) the handling of the car?

The only way I can see to fix it (if it is a problem) is to make sure my next motor has a flat faced can.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 10-16-2005 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 10-14-2005, 07:28 PM   #14886
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Default Emergency Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ROAR Region 6 On Road Champs are in less than 18hrs away and I have two problems. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

12th scale must use the Camelian 19turn and I have never used this power plant. What springs and brushes? The one I'm barrowing has no springs or brushes. I'm geared for the Reedy 19turn.

My ride height in the front is off. Im 4.5mm on the left side, 5mm on the right. I set the tweek and still a height discrepancy. I did eat a board hard last night during practice....did I tweak my carbon chassis?? I have seen some of my customers tweek their carbon cranks on their bicycles I repair but I really didn't expect my 12th scale to generate that much force.

Kevin "Last minute" Rivet

OD I hope your online tonight. Go Angels.
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Old 10-14-2005, 07:56 PM   #14887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
ROAR Region 6 On Road Champs are in less than 18hrs away and I have two problems. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

12th scale must use the Camelian 19turn and I have never used this power plant. What springs and brushes? The one I'm barrowing has no springs or brushes. I'm geared for the Reedy 19turn.

My ride height in the front is off. Im 4.5mm on the left side, 5mm on the right. I set the tweek and still a height discrepancy. I did eat a board hard last night during practice....did I tweak my carbon chassis?? I have seen some of my customers tweek their carbon cranks on their bicycles I repair but I really didn't expect my 12th scale to generate that much force.

Kevin "Last minute" Rivet

OD I hope your online tonight. Go Angels.
I've only run the C2 once, it took a much lower gear than the Reedy (spec 19). I usually gear the Reedy at 33/92 and I ran the Camelian at 29/92 (rollout about 51 and 46, respectively). That was on a pretty fast asphalt track.

The only way to really check your chassis is to strip it and put it on your set up board. Or you can get some idea with the car assembled by using a straight edge. If it looks bent loosen all the screws and re-check. If you don't see and big dents or some other impact damage on the chassis I doubt that it was tweeked by hitting the boards.

Check the front spring length; sometimes one will collapse. Check the suspension arms for damage, also. What kind of car is it? Maybe somebody else here has an idea.
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Old 10-14-2005, 08:01 PM   #14888
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Cypress, what's the big deal about paragon. I can't say I ever noticed a difference between it and niftech.

I don't think I'll be running again untill after the champs. But when I do I'd like to have someone to run mod with.
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Old 10-14-2005, 09:19 PM   #14889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
ROAR Region 6 On Road Champs are in less than 18hrs away and I have two problems. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

12th scale must use the Camelian 19turn and I have never used this power plant. What springs and brushes? The one I'm barrowing has no springs or brushes. I'm geared for the Reedy 19turn.

My ride height in the front is off. Im 4.5mm on the left side, 5mm on the right. I set the tweek and still a height discrepancy. I did eat a board hard last night during practice....did I tweak my carbon chassis?? I have seen some of my customers tweek their carbon cranks on their bicycles I repair but I really didn't expect my 12th scale to generate that much force.

Kevin "Last minute" Rivet

OD I hope your online tonight. Go Angels.

Depending on the track you will either want to go with an all Green set-up, Green spring with putnum green brushes or green/red springs with 767 brushes. The all green set-up is good for nice flowing layouts were RPM is a must, the 767 give a little more torque and the adition of the red spring helps in the efficientcy department.

The C2 was handout motor for the Nats last weekend, I ran the all green set-up with great results. As far as gearing if you have good batteries shoot for a roll out of around 2.000 or slightly higher. If you aren't exactly confident in your batteries or your lack to hit boards drop a tooth or two on your pinion.
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:43 AM   #14890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
ROAR Region 6 On Road Champs are in less than 18hrs away and I have two problems. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

12th scale must use the Camelian 19turn and I have never used this power plant. What springs and brushes? The one I'm barrowing has no springs or brushes. I'm geared for the Reedy 19turn.

My ride height in the front is off. Im 4.5mm on the left side, 5mm on the right. I set the tweek and still a height discrepancy. I did eat a board hard last night during practice....did I tweak my carbon chassis?? I have seen some of my customers tweek their carbon cranks on their bicycles I repair but I really didn't expect my 12th scale to generate that much force.

Kevin "Last minute" Rivet

OD I hope your online tonight. Go Angels.
I've been running the C2 in my 1/12 with a rollout between 50 and 51mm with 767's and green/green springs. Even with it geared that high I'm still turning the same laptimes at the end of the race as I am at the beginning.
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:52 AM   #14891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
I've been running the C2 in my 1/12 with a rollout between 50 and 51mm with 767's and green/green springs. Even with it geared that high I'm still turning the same laptimes at the end of the race as I am at the beginning.
What? Matt Howard driving a 1/12th scale? Sure can drive the wheels off of anything he touches. Hello from Stockton. Cheers!
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:58 AM   #14892
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Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
What? Matt Howard driving a 1/12th scale? Sure can drive the wheels off of anything he touches. Hello from Stockton. Cheers!
I've always driven 1/12, just ask anyone at stockton that watched the best onroad finish ever at the regionals a couple years ago, 4 of us finishing an 8 minute race within 1 second of each other. The only lap I led was the last one
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Old 10-15-2005, 09:04 AM   #14893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
I've always driven 1/12, just ask anyone at stockton that watched the best onroad finish ever at the regionals a couple years ago, 4 of us finishing an 8 minute race within 1 second of each other. The only lap I led was the last one
Oops! I WAS there. Forgot...Getting too old...

That was my first Regional too. Played that video a couple times myself.
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Old 10-15-2005, 09:10 AM   #14894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Oops! I WAS there. Forgot...Getting too old...

That was my first Regional too. Played that video a couple times myself.
I've got the whole race saved on my laptop
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Old 10-15-2005, 09:28 AM   #14895
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Is that different tire company has different color label? I found CRC tire chart here:
http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/Product...-tire-type.htm
and it's very different with Jaco's.

On the other hand, TRC's looks more like Jaco
http://www.teamtrinity.com/trc/touring.html

As suggest Jaco purple/pink (40/30) for asphalt, I assume if I using CRC, it going to be black/black (40/30), anyone using CRC tire able to confirm that?

Thanks.
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