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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-12-2005, 03:51 PM   #14851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus
Any suggestions on setup for a stock 12L4?
I am building a box stock 12L4 and will be running on new Ozite w/ a 19T.

How is the stock 12L4 setup or is there another one people would suggest to start with? AE's site doesn't have much...

Mike L...is there one on your site you could suggest for a stock 12L4?
Try the Cleveland 2004 setup. Ask others at your track for 19T gearing. You can use larger tires for a lower traction track.
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Old 10-12-2005, 03:56 PM   #14852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ml
Try the Cleveland 2004 setup. Ask others at your track for 19T gearing. You can use larger tires for a lower traction track.
Mike - When will you have your 2005 nats setup on your website?
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Old 10-12-2005, 03:59 PM   #14853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Thanks for posting your setup, Mike!

I noticed from the pictures that I have seen that smaller gauge wire might make for a cleaner application. Did you reduce the size of your wire to the motor and if you did, was there any noticeable loss in power? In addition, what size wire did you use?

Thanks!
Yes, I reduced the size of the wire. There was no noticeable loss in power. The purpose was to maintain a free and non-tweaked rear pod. I used 16 gauge wire, Team Associated #3737.

Mike
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Old 10-12-2005, 05:28 PM   #14854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ml
Yes, I reduced the size of the wire. There was no noticeable loss in power. The purpose was to maintain a free and non-tweaked rear pod. I used 16 gauge wire, Team Associated #3737.

Mike
That is exactly what I was planning on doing! I use 16g wire now but was unsure how it would effect the brushless system.

Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:38 PM   #14855
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I need a little help.

I have gotten a 12 sacle in a trade, but I'm unsure as to what it is.

It appears to be a 12L3, by looking at the chasis and front suspension.

The Mystery is the rear pod. It has an AE style pod with the one center shock and floating upper plate, BUT it is Not the factory pod.

The top plate is square (sorta) with two screws that secure it to the pod plate. On both sides( total of four screws ). The motor side is aluminum and the other side is plastic.

The rear end appears to have the large diff rings and has two bolts securing the wheels on. The hubs are blue aluminum.

I will attach a pic to help.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:54 PM   #14856
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That looks like a 12Lc.....The rear pod and axle are the older style and with the rear body mounts on the chassis like that Im almost sure its the 12Lc. The chassis that is on that car is good some guys look for that chassis to race. You can change the rear pod over to the new style L4 and change the rear axle....also that shock doesnt look like new shock its the older style as well. Its a good car to get started with it.
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:34 PM   #14857
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Actually I believe that is the car before the LC, the 12LS. The LC had the new (3 bolt) pod. The LS was the first to include the strut front end with the old style 4 bolt pod.

Still a very good car and can be fast with the right setup. Those tires look a bit beat up though. You can probably still find the 2 bolt rears in your local hobby shop's bargin bin.

-James
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:47 PM   #14858
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I believe that the trc tires have 8 screw holes in them so, they would probably work with a 2-bolt or 4-bolt axle.
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:54 PM   #14859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
That is exactly what I was planning on doing! I use 16g wire now but was unsure how it would effect the brushless system.

Thanks!
That's great news...I have 16g wire on order
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Old 10-13-2005, 02:10 AM   #14860
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I like to confirm one thing. The Yokomo version of 12L4WC is also using english screw, same with AE 12LC4, not the matric screw right? Is there any matric screw 1/12 anyway?

I'm planning to recover my savaged 12L3 with some 12L4 parts, doesn't wanna get into wrong path..
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Old 10-13-2005, 03:57 AM   #14861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
Actually I believe that is the car before the LC, the 12LS. The LC had the new (3 bolt) pod. The LS was the first to include the strut front end with the old style 4 bolt pod.

Still a very good car and can be fast with the right setup. Those tires look a bit beat up though. You can probably still find the 2 bolt rears in your local hobby shop's bargin bin.

-James
I thought the 12LW was the first, which is what I was thinking that car was.
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Old 10-13-2005, 01:34 PM   #14862
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Getting my 12L3 soon, need some suggestion.

I read over thread and seems pink and purple are best for carpet. Some setting for asphalt also using purple f/r. Im not understand how the asphalt also using the same tire compond with carpet, was the less-traction asphalt need a more-grip tire compond on front? maybe white?

My track is indoor, quite small. We run 23T 1/10 EP with 36' rubber all around. My guess I would need a white front and pink/purple rear. Any suggestion?
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Old 10-13-2005, 01:37 PM   #14863
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ttso
purple fornts and pink rears are typically used on asphalt. for carpet you can try purple fronts and white or grey rears.

E
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Old 10-13-2005, 01:41 PM   #14864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
I thought the 12LW was the first, which is what I was thinking that car was.
LW: first L car with an actual shock, used old skool front-end.
LS: LW with dynamic strut front-end
LC: body posts moved to rear cross-brace, 3 bolt upper pod plate design
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Old 10-13-2005, 04:46 PM   #14865
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So I wanted to try a mod motor for my L4.
The local track I hear does not run stock, only mod.
To date I have only used Stock and 19turn on everything I own. (cept an 11turn double for my BK2)
I wanted to try a mod for my L4 but a buddy told me that going really low with a 12th scale will make it a missle.
So what is a good mod motor to start with on a 12th and still be competitive?
I was thinking 9 or 10 turn single? Still too much?
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