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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-06-2005, 11:14 AM   #14791
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Default Link - T-Bar

I own both cars and run both cars all the time. The thing that is nice about the T-Fource is you can use the side springs instead of the setscrews in the T-bar. I find the car is much better and more consistant in this configuration.

In stock I find the T-Fource about .10 sec faster than the Knife. The T-Fource seems to hold it's speed in the turns better as compared to the Knife.
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Old 10-06-2005, 11:19 AM   #14792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin 1 Kevin
I own both cars and run both cars all the time. The thing that is nice about the T-Fource is you can use the side springs instead of the setscrews in the T-bar. I find the car is much better and more consistant in this configuration.

In stock I find the T-Fource about .10 sec faster than the Knife. The T-Fource seems to hold it's speed in the turns better as compared to the Knife.
I've found it to be completely the opposite, it just comes down to individual driving style.
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Old 10-06-2005, 01:46 PM   #14793
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Default AE Front King Pin Shimming



just preped the car for Sat night @ TRCC and shimmed the front springs so that there was no play either way on the king pin. On placing the car fully loaded minus bodyshell there is now a little free play on the king pins as the weight of the car is now loading the spring a little.

1. do I leave shimming as is,

or

2. shim the king pins now the car is on it's wheels

Last edited by radio_car_racer; 10-06-2005 at 02:15 PM. Reason: web link not working
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:20 PM   #14794
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I have had an on-going problem with my Assoc. 12L3, that is the car doesn't want to square-up coming out of turns. It wants to continue to turn as I begin to ease off on the radio wheel.

A thought has crossed my mind that the front end may be binding when the car is under a strong side load, preventing the car from squaring-up coming out of the turn.

Asphalt track (So Cal Raceway) and I currently do not use any lube on the damper plate or on the front suspension componets.

My Question is this: Do you serious 12 scale guys lube the kingpins to prevent binding? Does this issue sound like something that is caused by a lack of lube?

What is the therory for lubing the kingpins and damper plate?

I see CypressMidwest on here....always enjoyed you ideas! Any comments?
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Old 10-07-2005, 01:16 PM   #14795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graphitedust
I have had an on-going problem with my Assoc. 12L3, that is the car doesn't want to square-up coming out of turns. It wants to continue to turn as I begin to ease off on the radio wheel.

A thought has crossed my mind that the front end may be binding when the car is under a strong side load, preventing the car from squaring-up coming out of the turn.

Asphalt track (So Cal Raceway) and I currently do not use any lube on the damper plate or on the front suspension componets.

My Question is this: Do you serious 12 scale guys lube the kingpins to prevent binding? Does this issue sound like something that is caused by a lack of lube?

What is the therory for lubing the kingpins and damper plate?

I see CypressMidwest on here....always enjoyed you ideas! Any comments?
We only use the lube on king pins and damper plates or tubes to dampen the spring action of those parts. thicker lube to slow chassis roll, etc. It sounds like either the front end is binding, or possibly a binding T-bar pivot. It could also be the damper plates hanging up on the upper pod plate. You can polish the surfaces with very very fine steel wool to remove any imperfections, and see if that helps.....
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Old 10-07-2005, 06:08 PM   #14796
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lube is also a tuning aid. you can slow down the rear pod by applying thicker fluid between the disc and top plate. similar with lub on the king pins.
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Old 10-08-2005, 01:48 PM   #14797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
lube is also a tuning aid. you can slow down the rear pod by applying thicker fluid between the disc and top plate. similar with lub on the king pins.

That's kinda what I meant.
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Old 10-09-2005, 08:16 AM   #14798
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I just picked up a Rev3 the other day and had the opportunity to race it yesterday and all I can say is I should have done it years ago. I sauced the tires, threw the car on the track and within 3 laps I was hooked. I did hit some boards as I'm still new to carpet ( total of about 20 battery packs time running on carpet ) but this will be what I run this winter. Practice went good but come race time, I was stricken with the jitters and only did a few laps in 2 of my qualifiers. Maybe with a few more practice days I'll feel comfortable running on carpet and can start to lay down some decent laps.
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Old 10-09-2005, 03:17 PM   #14799
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What will be the difference in handling characteristics when running the IRS lowered and elongated rear pods compared to the normal length pods?
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Old 10-09-2005, 05:26 PM   #14800
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I believe the elongated IRS pods are specifically for oval track racing.
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Old 10-09-2005, 06:45 PM   #14801
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Hi Guys, Sorry to butt in here but I need some advice on how to tune a 1/12th scale car. I run a Hara Hammer currently and was wondering where, if at all I could find some sort of tuning guide for these cars. I've been looking all over the net but have yet to find anything good. Please let me know if you are aware of anything.
Thanks a million,
Jim
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Old 10-09-2005, 07:56 PM   #14802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
I believe the elongated IRS pods are specifically for oval track racing.
I thought they were made have a wider range of gearing options? Just wondering how they affected the handling of these cars?
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Old 10-09-2005, 08:04 PM   #14803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmudd
I thought they were made have a wider range of gearing options? Just wondering how they affected the handling of these cars?
The longer motor plates do allow you to use a larger spur gear, but they also lengthen the car's wheelbase. This affects the cars handling, making the car feel a little more stable but at the cost of steering. The lowered plates don't affect handling other than what you get when you use a smaller diameter tire. As you can see on the IRS website, the motor plates come lowered only or lowered and lengthened.

I used Niftech lowered and lengthened plates on my Quad 12 when I ran it on asphalt, and it worked quite well.
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Old 10-09-2005, 08:24 PM   #14804
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Hey Guys,

Paul Wynn took 3rd in mod 1/12th at the onroad nats today with his BMI 12L4A.Awesome runs today paul.
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Old 10-09-2005, 09:38 PM   #14805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Girth
You could get the whole pod assembly that Masami used at the words from Yokomo. Also that kit is available now.
Any idea where to find that Yokomo 12L4 pod lowering kit?
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