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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-04-2005, 01:55 PM   #14776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKlosi
I'd be using the three screw plates, and I have an L4

You could get the whole pod assembly that Masami used at the words from Yokomo. Also that kit is available now.
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Old 10-04-2005, 02:59 PM   #14777
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Hello

What do you think about this set for carpet 8 minutes racing?

Corally SP12M Ahoniemi SPEC
ESC GTX
Servo Airtronics 94145
Batteries IB3800
Battery pack GP 1/3AAA 160mah 5cell
Spektrum+M8
Motor Spashett 8x2
Tires front silverstar, rear pink
servosaver Kimbrough
Speed12 Protoform
Acer balls in the diff, BTW what is size of those balls?
did i forgot anything?

Should i charge receiver battery pack every race?
What would you change or add to this list?

Thank you for help in advance.
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Old 10-05-2005, 02:22 PM   #14778
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I've been running my L4 on asphalt with Reedy 19 turn motors all summer. Electronics are GT7 and Spektrum. Car has been working great. Last weekend I strapped in a 12x2 just for fun. After about 7 minutes my car "wigged" out on me. I did not notice any dumping but I lost control of the car. The steering went nuts as well as the throttle. Checked things over and could not find any obvious problems. Motor temp was about 158. I ran the car again for my next heat. Same thing after about 7 minutes.

I suspect that maybe I need to run a receiver pack with a mod motor or maybe I have an issue with my speedo or Rx. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? (no pun intended )
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Old 10-05-2005, 02:23 PM   #14779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudpuppy
I've been running my L4 on asphalt with Reedy 19 turn motors all summer. Electronics are GT7 and Spektrum. Car has been working great. Last weekend I strapped in a 12x2 just for fun. After about 7 minutes my car "wigged" out on me. I did not notice any dumping but I lost control of the car. The steering went nuts as well as the throttle. Checked things over and could not find any obvious problems. Motor temp was about 158. I ran the car again for my next heat. Same thing after about 7 minutes.

I suspect that maybe I need to run a receiver pack with a mod motor or maybe I have an issue with my speedo or Rx. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? (no pun intended )
Try a capacitor in the battery receptacle on the receiver, if that fixes it, you can run a rx pack or stick with the cap.
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Old 10-05-2005, 02:26 PM   #14780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudpuppy
I've been running my L4 on asphalt with Reedy 19 turn motors all summer. Electronics are GT7 and Spektrum. Car has been working great. Last weekend I strapped in a 12x2 just for fun. After about 7 minutes my car "wigged" out on me. I did not notice any dumping but I lost control of the car. The steering went nuts as well as the throttle. Checked things over and could not find any obvious problems. Motor temp was about 158. I ran the car again for my next heat. Same thing after about 7 minutes.

I suspect that maybe I need to run a receiver pack with a mod motor or maybe I have an issue with my speedo or Rx. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? (no pun intended )

I would run a cap on your receiver to start and if that isnt enough-then yes-you'll need a reciever pack with the DSM.

The GTX doesnt require a Recv pack to work with DSM-but maybe the GT7 will? I dont know for sure.
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:33 PM   #14781
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Thanks for the quick replies guys. Can you give me details on running a receiver cap? type, wiring, etc.
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:51 PM   #14782
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Default carpet knife ?

hello, i am thinking of getting into 12 scale along with stock touring ( which i am new at also)

i ma told to get an a/e rc12l4 cause its good for a newbe ????

what is a carpet knife ????
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:14 PM   #14783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnutmich
hello, i am thinking of getting into 12 scale along with stock touring ( which i am new at also)

i ma told to get an a/e rc12l4 cause its good for a newbe ????

what is a carpet knife ????
I believe, the get an ae12l4 to be good advise (but any "T-Bar" car will do)

My first 1/12th car was a carpet knife (link car) and i found it very hard to get along with.

To the point that i nearly gave up on 1/12th but after just a few weeks with a BMI converted 12l4 am finding life with the 1/12th crowd to be alot of fun.

Far better than when i was running 2 to 3 laps behind wondering what i was doing wrong all night long........

I'm sure this is a preference thing , but i'd really have to say if your starting out PLEASE go with a T-Bar to start with at least.......... It would have saved alot of head scratching for me.

Also the single biggest thing to get right with a 1/12th car in my opinion is the tires (look at what the "club Hero's are using) if you haven't got these right no matter what you do to your car it won't go right !!!
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:16 PM   #14784
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The crc T Force is a great car if you like CRC !
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:46 PM   #14785
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I think the point that people miss with all 1/12th scale cars is that you have to be precise; precise when building, precise when adjusting, precise when driving, precise when prepping. For all carpet racing, being precise is important, however, it is more important in 1/12th. I started years ago with a 12L, graduated to the 12Lw, I hated T-bars then, I still hate them now. Why? because they are very not precise. If you buy several to stock up for big races, or just to have so that you don't need to run to the shop and spend precious time there waiting for a clerk to get you the t-bar you want.. sorry, that is another gripe. If you check through all those t-bars you have on hand and measure the thickness, you will find that they not only vary in thickness from bar to bar, but also from end to end. If you pop a board, even a little, it can stress one side of the T-bar making it handle inconsistantly from side to side causing the car to feel tweaked. This leads to being imprecise, bad for 1/12th scale cars that are greatly effected by small adjustments.

If you assemble any 1/12th scale car imprecisely, it will be a handful. I also feel the same way with a sedan, however, with a sedan being bigger, it can be more forgiving, allowing one to manage during a race with it enough to not have to drop out.

I think that once you have assembled the link car (in my case, the Rev. 4 from Speedmerchant) paying attention to all the little details, the car will be that much easier to drive out of the box. Before I even took one lap, I had a local 1/12th hotshoe look over my car and make suggestions and help with adjustments. The only adjustments that I am forced to keep up with now is due to tire wear. I still check my springs to make sure that I did not damage them in any on-track skirmishes, but those are quick checks. Replacing a collapsed spring is far easier than pulling everything out to replace a t-bar. I also wouldn't need a dremel to make room for the motor every time I replace the T-bar.
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Old 10-05-2005, 08:01 PM   #14786
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I'm new to the electric and 1/12th scale (not new to racing though), but the link vs tplate thing is no different from the shaft vs belt. It is all preferance.

If you want the most out of any car (no matter whether it is nitro, electric, 1/8, 1/12, touring, full scale), you need to be precise in your alignments. Yes composites do vary, but they don't vary in thickness from one side to the other. Very doubtful you will have a 0.075" tplate act like a 0.063" tplate, so a particular alignment will work similary between one persons 0.075" plate setup and the one you put on.

My advise is find a car that at least one other person runs and try it out, if you don't like it you can always trade someone for a different type of chassis. Oh yeah, having a more experienced racer looking over you car is also a good tip, as they will generally will find small problems before you will.
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Old 10-06-2005, 01:05 AM   #14787
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We all have our ideas, but in the past 20 years, I feel that t-bars have never been beter. I am really pleased with what I can grab right off the hook and mindlessly slap onto the car. I have found that if I use all 3 screws, the strength of the t-bar is very good. I have run t-bars for two months with out issue.

But you all are right... it is in the detials. Pay attention... and you will be fine.
bb
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Old 10-06-2005, 05:49 AM   #14788
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thanks for the advise guys!.... sorry, what is a t-bar //??

what is a carpet knife /???
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Old 10-06-2005, 07:12 AM   #14789
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tbar = tplate is the (usally fiberglass) plate that goes between the main chassis (where the front suspension, electronic components sit) and the rear pod (where the motor, diff sits at). Basically it acts like a stiff spring for the rear of the car.

Carpet Knife is a type of car
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Old 10-06-2005, 11:00 AM   #14790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70
I think the point that people miss with all 1/12th scale cars is that you have to be precise; precise when building, precise when adjusting, precise when driving, precise when prepping. For all carpet racing, being precise is important, however, it is more important in 1/12th. I started years ago with a 12L, graduated to the 12Lw, I hated T-bars then, I still hate them now. Why? because they are very not precise. If you buy several to stock up for big races, or just to have so that you don't need to run to the shop and spend precious time there waiting for a clerk to get you the t-bar you want.. sorry, that is another gripe. If you check through all those t-bars you have on hand and measure the thickness, you will find that they not only vary in thickness from bar to bar, but also from end to end. If you pop a board, even a little, it can stress one side of the T-bar making it handle inconsistantly from side to side causing the car to feel tweaked. This leads to being imprecise, bad for 1/12th scale cars that are greatly effected by small adjustments.

If you assemble any 1/12th scale car imprecisely, it will be a handful. I also feel the same way with a sedan, however, with a sedan being bigger, it can be more forgiving, allowing one to manage during a race with it enough to not have to drop out.

I think that once you have assembled the link car (in my case, the Rev. 4 from Speedmerchant) paying attention to all the little details, the car will be that much easier to drive out of the box. Before I even took one lap, I had a local 1/12th hotshoe look over my car and make suggestions and help with adjustments. The only adjustments that I am forced to keep up with now is due to tire wear. I still check my springs to make sure that I did not damage them in any on-track skirmishes, but those are quick checks. Replacing a collapsed spring is far easier than pulling everything out to replace a t-bar. I also wouldn't need a dremel to make room for the motor every time I replace the T-bar.

Exactly!!! For an individual who has little confidence in his building skills, a T-bar car is easier to get up and running. But it's more work to maintain after the build. A link car when assembled properly will work every bit as well (some believe better), than a T-bar car. The difference is that a link car is far less susceptible to in race "re-adjustment" of tweak due to on track altercations, and the springs are infinitely faster to change than a T-bar. I've been doing this a while, and I've run both, and I ALWAYS prefer link cars.
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