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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-03-2005, 12:33 PM   #14761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_S
i basicly run the car box standard with a cefx C-LMP900 body, green tweak springs, xray diff lube in the damper tubes ,30 wait oil in the centre shoc,k the silver centre spring that comes with the kit ,3mm ride height front and rear and trc magenta fronts and purple rears and 1 deg front toe inn and the std front springs
WOW! It sounds as if the rear of the car is WAY too stiff side to side. Try a set of blue side springs and a lighter fluid in the tubes, maybe 1000 wt. 8th scale diff fluid. I would also try a slightly stiffer center shock spring, and 50wt. oil. It's almost as if the car can't transfer any weight, and therfore overloads the outside tires.
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Old 10-03-2005, 12:37 PM   #14762
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ok thanks ill try that at the next round, it wasnt undriveable, it still managed to get me 2nd in the a but i felt it could havbe had alot more corner speed
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Old 10-03-2005, 12:39 PM   #14763
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Last edited by Roger; 10-03-2005 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 10-03-2005, 01:08 PM   #14764
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The things I see different from my L4:
1. Old style reactive caster blocks
2. Old style front end brace, with shimms for adjustment
3. Reinforced servo saver with ball studs on other side of servo saver opposed to stock
4. Servo glued flat on the chassis
5. Aftermarket eyelets
6. Ball stud raised for improved ackerman. Just look at how similar those front wheels turn! That thing must be efficient!
7. antenna mount turned, probably for more room for the receiver. Looks like a lot of CA went in there! O-rings, probably to avoid play.
8. purple ball stud with O-rings.
9. 4-point upper deck
10. aftermarket left clamping hub
11. dremeled T-bar
12. modified, or even custom-made radio plate
13. ball studs for tubes?
14. Lowered pod plates

Did I miss anything?
Oh yes, a top noth driver behind the wheel!
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Old 10-03-2005, 03:11 PM   #14765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
This is just for the sake of discussion. I own several conversions as well as unaltered kits, link and t bar, so I don't have an axe to grind.

Everyone thinks you need to convert the L car to something else for it to work. Here's a photo of Blackstock's car from the IIC, How many mods do you see?
shock is aftermarket
chassis looks thicker like that of a IRS Rugrat

the 12L4 is a great car, but i never judge my purchases on what the pros are winning with. i also learned years ago that with pro-drivers cars that appear stock many times are not. they have their plastic parts blueprinted, parts that at a quick look appear stock to give you/me the impression the won with a BOX STOCK car. the chassis's they may run although graphite and cut in the stock kit format are not what you and i get out of the box, etc. etc.
i notice when Spashett, Doseck, or Cryul...etc win with a dampner tube/t-bar car, you see all the hoopla about the car they won with and everyone seems to want a car other that the 12L or a conversion. anytime the AE/Yok crew wins with a 12L car the word that flashes out instantly BOXSTOCK. Masami won the worlds with the 12L4Y first thing out it was BOXSTOCK with only a few mods. yep those mods alone add up to what....over $275

i'm not a fan of the puck system. i ran a CRC red ed 6-Pack (4 cells) for a year+ until the chassis broke. other than the tubes and option of using side springs, all in all it was a 12L3 with a better diff, lowered pod plates. for me the 6-pk with it's minor mods was more consistent for me on carpet or asphalt.

currently i'm driving a DP-12 on carpet, it's has been suberb. but i'm sure i could to the same with a T-fource, BMI, MS-12, IRS Rugrat (had one a while back, Hyperform (this i have).

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 10-03-2005 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 10-03-2005, 04:44 PM   #14766
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Are the IRS pod chassis plates thick? I need a new bottom plate for my pod, and also I noticed that if I got their lowered pod sides I'd need their top plate.
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:00 PM   #14767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKlosi
Are the IRS pod chassis plates thick? I need a new bottom plate for my pod, and also I noticed that if I got their lowered pod sides I'd need their top plate.
It depends on whether you are talking about the regular motor plates or the new four screw plates. The type of car you are using them on may be a factor as well.
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:23 PM   #14768
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I'd be using the three screw plates, and I haev an L4
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:28 PM   #14769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKlosi
I'd be using the three screw plates, and I haev an L4
the L4 top plate should fit.
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:57 PM   #14770
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IRS offers 2 different Lowered rear pod plates.The 3 bolt std and the new 4 bolt that is lowered even more(about 2mm more) The IRS lower rearbottom pod graphite is designed for the Rugrat.The rear plates mounting is different making the wheel base different if you use them on another car.
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:08 PM   #14771
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ok new question then, where can I get a new bottom plate then?
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:31 PM   #14772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKlosi
ok new question then, where can I get a new bottom plate then?
Hey joe,
Tim form trackside (ran at sizzler and sunday b4 with u) the part you need is assoicated #4559 (Rc 12l4 bottom plate) and the pod upgrade with the rc12l4 style top plate included is irs part #(IRS1161BL)on this page a lil way down
http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html
Just my 2 cents
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:56 PM   #14773
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need some suggestions for gearing

crc 3.1 carpet knife

p2k, monster
100t spur
tires at 42.79mm or 1.684"

carpet track that is mixed, not to big but has a good size straight away
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Old 10-04-2005, 12:10 AM   #14774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKlosi
Are the IRS pod chassis plates thick? I need a new bottom plate for my pod, and also I noticed that if I got their lowered pod sides I'd need their top plate.
don't know the exact measurement but they are thicker, like that of a 1/10 car.

although drilled for the AE standard pod plates, the rear bottom plate on a IRS has the holes drilled slightly off from what a 12L4 bottom plate. infact the holes and cut pattern match the AE 1/10 pan oval car rear bottom plate.

i ran the lowered/cut down front AE arms IRS sold due to the chassis thickness, so to me it makes sense they went another 2mm lower for the pod plates for their car

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 10-04-2005 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 10-04-2005, 01:42 PM   #14775
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Default REFLEX 12

I have a used Reflex 12 if anyone wants one.

Let me know.
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