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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-29-2005, 08:48 PM   #14701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ooge
To the guys who use receiver pack cells, do you use it mainly to get:
1) Additional run time (if yes, how much extra do you get?)
2) Better receiver / servo performance?

I'm new to the world of 1/12, so still learning from the pros

Thanks!
I find that i get about 20 to 30 seconds more run time with a reciever pack.
You get more voltage to the servo and reciever so the servo is faster and the reciever may perform better (although I have no evidence of this)

Some pros use a six cell reciever pack for a very fast servo, but some servos will not tolerate the extra voltage. I noticed that both Blackstock and Cyrul used six cells on the cars they ran at last weeks IIC.
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:01 PM   #14702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
It's an expensive car, but comes assembled and with extra parts. You would have to ask Team Laje whether the cars listed are the SpeedEvil2 or the new SpeedEvil2006.
does it come with tires?
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:13 PM   #14703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
does it come with tires?
no tires
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:28 PM   #14704
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so whats the track report on the SE06-12. what's the front end react like.

running on carpet or asphalt?

since you own/drive most current 12th cars (from the pics i've seen you post a vast 12th arsenal) how does it rate?
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:36 PM   #14705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMG1971
Can you guys (specially AdrainM) that really know about 1/12, post a setup (like a really good baseline setup) for a 12L4 racing in a tight, medim grip carpet setup. The track is an oval which is transformed in touring track for sedan and 1/12 weekends. As I said grip is medium, and the track is really tight. The guys here, really like jacos double pink and pink for tires. We race only stock.
Waiting for your answers.
Thanks
J
Try This:

Front tire size:1.78"
Front tire: Purple or Double Pink for more steering
Sauce:Inside Half (50/50 mix of Tire Tweak and ParagonFXII)
Front spring: .020"
Front caster: 1 Shim On Each Side
Front camber: 1.5 deg
Lower a-arm: Stock
Degree of reactive caster block: 5 deg
Servo Mounting: Stock Angled
Bump Toe (In, Neutral, Out): 0
Front ride height: 3.5mm
Center ride height: Pod Level
Rear ride height: 3.5mm
Center shock spring: Green
Center shock oil: 30wt
Damper lube: Trinity White grease (if you see a lot of white on the damper plates you have too much on them)
T-Bar size: AE .063"
Shims under T-bar Pivots: No
Number of screws to pod (2 or 3): 2
Rear tire size: 1.90
Rear tire: Pink
Sauce: Full (50/50 mix of Tire Tweak and ParagonFXII)
Body: Parma Speed 8
Battery location: Back

The above pretty much works on all med grip asphalt tracks and all T-bar cars that are based on AE cars.
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What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 09-29-2005, 10:07 PM   #14706
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Adrian,

Interesting; but, he asked for a carpet setup...
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Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 09-29-2005, 10:18 PM   #14707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Adrian,

Interesting; but, he asked for a carpet setup...
DOH!

Stock/19T Motor Carpet setup:

Front tire size:1.75"
Front tire: Purple
Sauce:Inside Half (Paragon GFX)
Front spring: .020"
Front caster: 1 Shim On Each Side
Front camber: 1.5 deg
Lower a-arm: Stock
Degree of reactive caster block: 10 deg
Servo Mounting: Flat
Bump Toe (In, Neutral, Out): 0, You will need Trinity long pivot balls on you steering knuckls or 2mm of spacers under pivot balls with long threads to get rid of bump toe. See pics of Josh Cyruls car below. He has green Trinity long pivot balls on his spindles.
Front ride height: 3.5mm
Center ride height: Pod Level
Rear ride height: 3.5mm
Center shock spring: Silver
Center shock oil: 30wt
Damper lube: Trinity White grease
T-Bar size: AE .075"
Shims under T-bar Pivots: one .010"washer under front pivot ball.
Number of screws to pod (2 or 3): 3
Rear tire size: 1.90
Rear tire: Grey
Sauce: Full (Paragon GFX)
Body: Parma Speed 8
Battery location: Back

The above pretty much works on all med grip carpet tracks and all T-bar cars that are based on AE cars.

Double Pink fronts and pink rears are more of a Mod thing as they can light up grey rear tires coming out of corners .
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Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 09-29-2005, 10:22 PM   #14708
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To give credit where credit is due...Most of my setups are from Mike Lufaso's website with a few tweaks here and there to optimize them for stock and 19T racing.
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Old 09-29-2005, 10:26 PM   #14709
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Kewl!
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Old 09-29-2005, 11:23 PM   #14710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
how does it rate?
Honestly, I don't know yet. I'm really impressed with the car, it's very smooth and has tons of bite. I've only run a few battery packs on it so far, and haven't found the set up I like. The set up I have on it right now feels like an L4 front end with 10 degree blocks, which I don't like. It's so adjustable I think it will do whatever I want once I get used to the front end. It's quite easy to adjust, really, but with so many available it will take some experience to learn what does what. The team Laje guys are super helpful and have given me some starting set ups to try, i'll post my results after more testing.
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Old 09-29-2005, 11:36 PM   #14711
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Anyone else out there running a SP12M euros spec on carpet with a stock motor? If so what compounds are you finding to work best? I'll be racing on brand new CRC carpeting so if anyone ran a Corally at IIC it should be pretty similar.
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Old 09-30-2005, 06:46 AM   #14712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
DOH!

Stock/19T Motor Carpet setup:

Front tire size:1.75"
Front tire: Purple
Sauce:Inside Half (Paragon GFX)
Front spring: .020"
Front caster: 1 Shim On Each Side
Front camber: 1.5 deg
Lower a-arm: Stock
Degree of reactive caster block: 10 deg
Servo Mounting: Flat
Bump Toe (In, Neutral, Out): 0, You will need Trinity long pivot balls on you steering knuckls or 2mm of spacers under pivot balls with long threads to get rid of bump toe. See pics of Josh Cyruls car below. He has green Trinity long pivot balls on his spindles.
Front ride height: 3.5mm
Center ride height: Pod Level
Rear ride height: 3.5mm
Center shock spring: Silver
Center shock oil: 30wt
Damper lube: Trinity White grease
T-Bar size: AE .075"
Shims under T-bar Pivots: one .010"washer under front pivot ball.
Number of screws to pod (2 or 3): 3
Rear tire size: 1.90
Rear tire: Grey
Sauce: Full (Paragon GFX)
Body: Parma Speed 8
Battery location: Back

The above pretty much works on all med grip carpet tracks and all T-bar cars that are based on AE cars.

Double Pink fronts and pink rears are more of a Mod thing as they can light up grey rear tires coming out of corners .
AdrianM thanks a bunch. I just have a couple of questions.

1) How does putting 2 or 3 screws on the pod affect the car? If I am correct you are referring to the T-bar to Pod attachment screws right? So you would either remove the one in the center or just install all three right?

2) how does the shim under the front pivot ball on the T-bar affect handling?, that's what I have installed on my car now for a while but without understanding much what it does.

3)In your setup, do you recommend removing or leaving installed the carbon bar that attaches from one caster block to the other?, I have seen many guys removing this bar...

Thanks again
Jorge
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Old 09-30-2005, 07:24 AM   #14713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMG1971
AdrianM thanks a bunch. I just have a couple of questions.

Thanks again
Jorge

1) How does putting 2 or 3 screws on the pod affect the car? If I am correct you are referring to the T-bar to Pod attachment screws right? So you would either remove the one in the center or just install all three right?

Running the two outer screws makes the t-bar softer front to back. This improves forward bite and make the car better over bumps. If you have enough traction running the 3rd/center screw give you more on power steering by stiffeing the t-bar and reducng the weight transfer to the bar of the car on power. Generally for carpet start with all three screws. If it is really bumpy run just the two outer ones. On asphalt I start with two and will add the center screw if there is enough traction.

2) how does the shim under the front pivot ball on the T-bar affect handling?, that's what I have installed on my car now for a while but without understanding much what it does.

The shim improves on power rear traction. I dont fully understand why it works but it does...lol!

3)In your setup, do you recommend removing or leaving installed the carbon bar that attaches from one caster block to the other?, I have seen many guys removing this bar...

I dont know anyone that runs the carbon bar on the L4 front end or the aluminum tube on the L3 front end. The cars that have thick carpet chassis are plenty stiff already and the asphalt cars with thinner chassis can gain more front traction from leaving the bar off.
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Old 09-30-2005, 05:01 PM   #14714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
3)In your setup, do you recommend removing or leaving installed the carbon bar that attaches from one caster block to the other?, I have seen many guys removing this bar...

I dont know anyone that runs the carbon bar on the L4 front end or the aluminum tube on the L3 front end. The cars that have thick carpet chassis are plenty stiff already and the asphalt cars with thinner chassis can gain more front traction from leaving the bar off.
I use the front end cross brace. I use it to keep the tires from undergoing any unwanted camber change in the corners due to flex in the front end.
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Old 09-30-2005, 05:04 PM   #14715
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It depends... The brace is kind of hit and miss with the manufaturing tolerances. The reason most of us remove them is due to it bowing the chassis. If you install it and the chassis is still flat in the front, it's fine. If it bows, ditch it or open the holes up on the cross brace a little.
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