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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-15-2002, 12:57 PM   #1456
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F1-Fanatic, I AM going to race on carpet (Ozite I think) road course, It's just that the person I bought it from had no idea about set-up
The ride-height was about 3mm it's just that the body posts were the wrong length and made it look higher, it's sorted now
I tried it out on carpet at a bowls center (not bowling, it's a weird game that elderly English people like ) after a practice buggy race and it went pretty well. The carpet didn't have very good grip but it was OK
There's no minimum ride height at the track so I may go a little lower
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Old 09-15-2002, 01:28 PM   #1457
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Trips, I don't understand what you are trying to say unless there are some bad aerodynamics to it.
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Old 09-15-2002, 02:42 PM   #1458
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proudwinner,

I don't know for sure if it's an aero issue or weight or what, but I know that the Associated 1/12 Jag body just plain doesn't get the job done. Their Nissan and TOJ bodies both work fine, but I believe there are still better choices to be found.

If you want the best handling bodies, the best two I know of are the Protoform Nissan P35 (lightweight version) or the Parma Speed8 (also lightweight version). Yokomo's new 1/12 scale body looks pretty good too, but I haven't had the chance to try one yet.

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Old 09-15-2002, 04:44 PM   #1459
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Trips, thanks for the help, I'll keep all that in mind. Tell you the truth, I like the looks of the Cross GT-12 type T. Anyone know where this body can be purchased?

Last edited by webspinner; 09-15-2002 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 09-16-2002, 11:18 AM   #1460
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proudwinner:you can find the cross 1/12th body at shumacher usa.just give them a call
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Old 09-16-2002, 11:44 AM   #1461
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Juch's is that you?- Are we going up to Trackside this Sat? Just talked to Danny stuff should be sent tomorrow to your place with two for me. If he can he will try to get another one or two for each of us for Oktoberfast. I got my carbite bit in really good shape and it is cutting as well as my diamond bit did. It took me about 3 hrs. of grinding and shaping to get it right but it cuts even all the way down the comm. and eve with it rotated so i should be fine until i get the diamond bit sometime in Oct. Is your stuff in yet?
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Old 09-16-2002, 03:35 PM   #1462
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as far as bodies. i have found the nissan to not have the steering that the parma does. i will try out the yokomo as soon as a paint it.
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Old 09-16-2002, 04:30 PM   #1463
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Tigger.....have you checked with Scotty to see if the new carpet has been put in yet? The boards up in Minnesota were not so bad......it was the corrner dots that were the real problem.....damn they are pesky. It was a good weekend they had lots of 12th scalers out. Maybe
I will see you over the weekend.

And BrianJ.....I called you today but you were no where to be found so give me a call at work or at home tomorrow.
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Old 09-16-2002, 04:53 PM   #1464
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Thanks BrianJ, that will work!

Anyone got a fair setup for the 12L3 on asphalt with VHT? I just built the car but I have all the front springs, the optional rear shock spring and the optional thicker T-bar. How will more preload on the dampener springs affect the handling of the car? Also, should my rear pod roll all the way till it is stopped by the dampener plate roll stop inserts or should I use the tweak screws to limit some of the roll? Man the rear pod feels like there needs more dampening from side to side or is it suppose to be that loose?
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Old 09-16-2002, 05:17 PM   #1465
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Proudwinner.....Make sure that your tweak screws are in contact with the chassis at all times. When you have these screwed in to the T-bar they will help keep the rear pod level. If you can take your rear pod and twist it to the left or right and it does not come back to center then you need to screw your tweak screws in more. You can look at the T-bar to see if the tweak screws are all the way in, if you can see that they are not touching the chassis then the car will not work very well at all. I would venture to say that youre screws are not screwed in far enough.....I have seen this before.
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Old 09-16-2002, 05:26 PM   #1466
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Kevin K, that will definately work! Your right, I have them all the way into the T-bar but not touching the chassis. That is what I wanted to hear-Thank you much, you saved a huge headache
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Old 09-16-2002, 06:02 PM   #1467
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No prob man.....I had a buddy show up to Cleveland with this same thing so dont feel so bad.
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Old 09-16-2002, 07:07 PM   #1468
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Proud....here is my set up(but with a 12LW)and Grape sode instead of VHT.......should be close.....FRONT-.018/spring--10 degree block--1 white spacer each side--R.H..3mm----REAR 20 wt oil--silver spring--.063 t-bar--no roll stop insert--R.H. 3mm--Proto P-35 body--4 cell stock....I was using Green front and Yellow rears.....very good traction....but high wear.....Zip2 full rear....half inside front......I now use Purple front/Pink rear.
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Old 09-17-2002, 12:34 AM   #1469
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Drangon Slayer, man thanks for the setup, sorry I forgot to mention we will be racing 4cell stock. I'll try that setup first. Do you not use any grease under the discs?
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Old 09-17-2002, 05:31 AM   #1470
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Startup question: Guys, some of us at the local track are think of going 1/12. Suggestions for which kit. We will all be green at this but one who ran 1/12 5 years ago. None of us have kits. Track is carpet oval now with a banked transistion into the TC area. New track, will be flat ozite We are talking 6 cell stock.
I run an X-Ray now on the track and do pretty well. Just looking to try something different this winter.
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