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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-27-2005, 11:50 PM   #14671
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OD is right, this is Cyrul's car.
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1/12 forum-cyrul2.jpg  
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:51 PM   #14672
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ODP

i have posted pics of this car in the past as the car changed on the Laje site.
originally those gold blocks you see on the top were the old school front end steering blocks, then Aluminum, now ano'd. my post was basicly "check out this front end"

i saw it a couple of weeks ago and the perception i got from hitting SHOP is that they have 5 for sale.

they had the price posted before, several commented on the 347 tag. then again if you look at full list on some of our US cars full retail/list prices many would be amazed. luckily, over here no-one sells them for that
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Old 09-28-2005, 12:20 AM   #14673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
ODP

i have posted pics of this car in the past as the car changed on the Laje site.
originally those gold blocks you see on the top were the old school front end steering blocks, then Aluminum, now ano'd. my post was basicly "check out this front end"

i saw it a couple of weeks ago and the perception i got from hitting SHOP is that they have 5 for sale.

they had the price posted before, several commented on the 347 tag. then again if you look at full list on some of our US cars full retail/list prices many would be amazed. luckily, over here no-one sells them for that
It's an expensive car, but comes assembled and with extra parts. You would have to ask Team Laje whether the cars listed are the SpeedEvil2 or the new SpeedEvil2006.
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Old 09-28-2005, 12:26 AM   #14674
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2006 version
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Old 09-28-2005, 12:29 AM   #14675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
2006 version
buy one and dig it!
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Old 09-28-2005, 12:55 AM   #14676
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What are those mini cells for?
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Old 09-28-2005, 01:01 AM   #14677
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receiver pack
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Old 09-28-2005, 06:41 AM   #14678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
Race my 12L4 the first time Sunday.
It has CRC milled front lower suspension, CRC pod plates and .050 spring steel t-bar and stock front springs.
Purple fronts and pink rears.
The problem is after a couple laps the tires "tack" up real good, it pushes worst than a 2whl buggy with a 9 turn.

I have to almost stop to get the car to turn.

Any suggestions?
Thanks
Dayton
Can you post your setup in detail? I know you posted some of this stuff but I wanted to put up a full setup list for future ref. Let me know if I missed anything.

Front tire size:
Front tire compound:
How much sauce:
Type of sauce:
Front spring:
Front caster:
Front camber:
Lower a-arm(.060" lowered, stock AE):
Degree of reactive caster block:
Servo Mounting(Flat or Angled):
Bump Toe (In, Neutral, Out):
Front ride height:
Center ride height:
Rear ride height:
Center shock spring:
Center shock oil:
Damper Plate or Tube lube:
T-Bar size:
Any shims under T-bar?:
Number of screws to pod (2 or 3):
Rear tire size:
Rear tire compound:
How much sauce:
Type of sauce:
Diff feel (very free, tight, gritty?):
Diff lube type:
Body:
Battery location:
Carpet or Asphalt:
Percieved Traction level:
Tight or flowing layout:
Smooth or bumpy:

I bet some of you though 1/12th was a simple put it together and throw it down deal
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Last edited by AdrianM; 09-28-2005 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 09-28-2005, 06:54 AM   #14679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM #6
I'm having a prob with the car lifting up when I corner.

I have had the same problem with my 12th scale!
Maybe we both get get a reason as to why this is happening.
Any help on this from other 12th scalers would be great.

Thanks for the info.




.

Last edited by Toxic Racing; 09-28-2005 at 06:58 AM. Reason: ...
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Old 09-28-2005, 06:58 AM   #14680
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if you are talking about the front inside tire. running a dampner car, i would put some fluid on the disk. may try 5000 oil and go up. I was having that problem on one corner and basically the car was just rotating a little too fast, the fluid slows the rate the car rolls in the corners.

man adrian, that is too much. it would make my head spin having to think about all that. lol
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Old 09-28-2005, 07:45 AM   #14681
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what exactly is the reason for running green compund tires? The other compounds(white, grey, pink) are all "low wear" while greens are standard(amound blue, aqua, etc), so what is the point of using the "standart" wear tires?
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Old 09-28-2005, 08:21 AM   #14682
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If you are running on a high grip asphalt track in stock or 19T it is possible to have so much grip your car will bog down in the corners with pink rear tires. In the past guys have run whites or greens in these conditions to free up their cars and improve run time and speed.

Tire wear is a serious issue with no-exotics but this is typically a big race only tuning option so you would only run tires twice...a 2-4 min scuff run in practice after truing to race size and an 8 min qualifier or main.
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:59 AM   #14683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Can you post your setup in detail? I know you posted some of this stuff but I wanted to put up a full setup list for future ref. Let me know if I missed anything.

Front tire size:1.785"
Front tire compoundurple
How much sauce:full
Type of saucearagon unscented
Front spring:.020
Front caster:10
Front camber:.5
Lower a-arm(.060" lowered, stock AE):stock L4 lower arms
Degree of reactive caster block:stock
Servo Mounting(Flat or Angled):angled
Bump Toe (In, Neutral, Out):0
Front ride height:3.5mm
Center ride height:chassis and pod are striaght
Rear ride height:4mm
Center shock spring:brownish/olive color
Center shock oil:?
Damper Plate or Tube lube:none I think
T-Bar size:.050 spring steel
Any shims under T-bar?:none
Number of screws to pod (2 or 3):3
Rear tire size:1.935"
Rear tire compoundink
How much sauce:full
Type of saucearagon unscented
Diff feel (very free, tight, gritty?):very free and smooth
Diff lube type:AE
Bodyarma 12 I believe
Battery location:forward
Carpet or Asphalt:carpet
Percieved Traction level:medium, iy is fairly new
Tight or flowing layout:changes every week
Smooth or bumpy:smooth

I bet some of you though 1/12th was a simple put it together and throw it down deal
The parts that have? mark or that I am unsure, I bought the car already built but never ran.
Answered all the best I can buy just looking and measuring.
Thanks
Dayton
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Old 09-28-2005, 10:11 AM   #14684
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I have a setup issue, i need more mid corner steering in my Associated RC12l4. I run carpet and double pink fronts and gray or pink rears.

2mm anti squat, .20 front springs, 0.63 Tbar
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Old 09-28-2005, 10:18 AM   #14685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mange
I have a setup issue, i need more mid corner steering in my Associated RC12l4. I run carpet and double pink fronts and gray or pink rears.

2mm anti squat, .20 front springs, 0.63 Tbar

Try a stiffer t-bar.
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