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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-21-2005, 10:47 PM   #14551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Saved in favorites...

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html

Everything there applies to every t-bar car on the market...no matter the brand.
i haven't been there in awhile, i see he still has the set-up recommendation for the LRP Q2 and noticed the pic now shows a 12L4 with a LRP Sphere with a BL motor in the car. more so, i was surprized to see this set-up with a rec-pk.

the people i have talked to that have tried BL in a sedan or 1/10 Oval claim near endless runtime compared to brushed motor set-ups. one guy in another forum put a Novak 5800 system in a CK claiming he gets runs up to 12min off of 3300's

maybe it's to insure top voltage to that FET KO 949 servo?
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Old 09-21-2005, 11:01 PM   #14552
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The Reedy Neo1 and new Novak Velociti's are a differnet ball game. In 1/12th mod with BL motors if you have run time left after a run that is lost speed. They gear them up or advance the timing on the motor to use up all the batts they have...3700..3800 whatever
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Old 09-22-2005, 11:24 AM   #14553
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Default New CRC machined lower arms being tested?

there is a pic from nashracers site. www.rc50.com thats shows a CRC CK at the IIC/Vegas with lower front arms are machined out of delrin.

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...lbum=10&pos=76

another trend i have noticed thru past pics of some CRC drivers using the GTX...no capacitor?

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 09-22-2005 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 09-22-2005, 11:47 AM   #14554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
there is a pic from nashracers site. www.rc50.com thats shows a CRC CK with
lower front arms are machined out of delrin

another trend i have noticed thru past pics of some CRC drivers using the GTX...no capacitor?
Whats different about the lower arms? A lot of us have been running IRS .060" lowered front arms so we can run our front tires down to skins.
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:13 PM   #14555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Whats different about the lower arms? A lot of us have been running IRS .060" lowered front arms so we can run our front tires down to skins.
The AE/IRS arms are molded using a nylon material. Those arms in the picture look like they're molded from an Acetal (Delrin) resin and then machined.
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:24 PM   #14556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy
The AE/IRS arms are molded using a nylon material. Those arms in the picture look like they're molded from an Acetal (Delrin) resin and then machined.
Whatever-what in the heck do you know about molded plastics HA

Last edited by rayhuang; 09-22-2005 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:40 PM   #14557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Wahtever-what in the heck do you know about molded plastics HA
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Old 09-22-2005, 06:04 PM   #14558
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ok i dont want to go through tons of pages looking so here it goes. tryin to get into 12th scale racing and was looking at a used crc 3.1 carpet knife and just wanted to see some pros an cons on this. I have been racing 1/10 sedan for awhile now so i have some exprience racing.
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Old 09-22-2005, 06:46 PM   #14559
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The 3.1 is essentially the same as the newer "knife" models - just not as pretty. 1/12 scale is no different that anything else - ever get beat by a car that was two or three generations old that was just well cared for and in the hands of a good driver? We all have, just easier to do with 1/12th. I broke my 3.1 last year one night and pulled my old 12LW (fiberglass chassis no less) out of my trunk and was 2nd qualifier and won an A main with it.
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Old 09-22-2005, 06:53 PM   #14560
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whats a good monster stock motor setup for a 12th scale?
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:36 PM   #14561
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spc: try 767's vetical slot green spring -. red spring+ they get faster when the comm is under .280
have had good luck with the 777laydowns but havent tried them in 1/12 yet.
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:52 PM   #14562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy
The AE/IRS arms are molded using a nylon material. Those arms in the picture look like they're molded from an Acetal (Delrin) resin and then machined.
I finally saw the pic you were talking about. Nash changed the pic numbers up so it took me a minute to find it. You are correct. That is a machined delrin arm. That must be a new bit CRC is looking at producing.
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Old 09-22-2005, 08:28 PM   #14563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Whatever-what in the heck do you know about molded plastics HA
That huang guy is so mean Thanks for your help at practice Ray

Fuzzy,
Mikey and I were at practice wed.I really need to get my car dialed and get some batteries and a tuned motor and wish for alot of luck to give you guys any competition.I need to learn more about 12 scale setup and get my car right and know that it is right, just knowing helps with the confidence.I an very inconsistent right now my best run I had 2 12.0 sec. laps in a row and then like a 12.8,13.1,12.4.I noticed that towards the end of my runs that my rear would swing around on me real bad.whats springs do you have in your car and shock oil.I have a red spring 40 weight oil and I think a 20 spring on the front.Mikey and I may go to toledo Sunday and run our 960's if the weather looks good if it doesnt we will be at the gate.Talk to you later.
mike
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Old 09-23-2005, 04:31 AM   #14564
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Mike,

Your rear setup sounds too stiff. Change the oil in your shock to 30wt. and go to either Associated's 6.0 green spring or slightly stiffer 8.0 silver spring. I wouldn't go any stiffer than the silver. You're good with the .020" springs up front. I'll be there for the October 2nd race. If you're able to make it, we can sit down a compare rides/setups.
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Old 09-23-2005, 04:35 AM   #14565
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hi guys

does anyone know the item no. for the carbon fiber stiffener for the L4 front end??

cheers..
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