R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-19-2005, 10:51 PM   #14521
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Pan cars do well even in moderate bumps. Your Novak system will run great in a 12L4. Be sure to run a Parma Speed or Trinity Speed 9 body as your BL speedo will not fit under the Protoform Speed 12 body.

You will have to gear up a lot for 4 cell but thats fine.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2005, 11:41 PM   #14522
Tech Adept
 
ooge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kuala Lumpur
Posts: 164
Send a message via ICQ to ooge
Default

Thanks Adrian!
I'll look into who carries the bodies here
ooge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 03:20 PM   #14523
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 9
Default

I have a new t-fource and I am having a problem with the wanting to push mid way thur turn. The car has great turn in.Runing on new ozite carpet. Any help would be appreciated.

set-up
Front
0 toe
0 camber
-3 caster
10 block
.18 springs
3mm ride hight
purple crc foams
Rear
white side springs
copper shock spring with 30w fluid
crc light damping fluid
3.5 ride hight
crc gray foams

Last edited by goblue38; 09-20-2005 at 03:38 PM.
goblue38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 03:33 PM   #14524
Tech Regular
 
Fuzzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mentor , Ohio
Posts: 397
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by goblue38
I have a new t-fource and I am having a problem with the wanting to push mid way thur turn. The car has great turn in.
We need some info on your current setup: tire compound, front spring size, t-bar, and what type of surface you drive on (carpet or asphalt).
Fuzzy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 03:52 PM   #14525
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

You need some negative camber up front...usually 1.5 deg is need for even front tire wear.

What traction compound are you using and how much of the front tires are you saucing?

What thickness T-Bar are you using? You should be running a .075" with all three rear pod screws in place.

I might get strung up by the CRC guys but...remove the side springs and put tweak screws in the front of the T-Bar. CRC's Top US driver is a good buddy of mine and he never runs the side springs on his T-Fource.

Run 30wt oil in the rear shock with a silver spring.

Use Trinity Red Stuff in the damper tubes.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 04:54 PM   #14526
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 9
Default

Thanks Adrian
I am running .075 t-bar with only two pod screws to be able to run bigger pinon but i will try three. I have been running niftech traction compound because it has to be odorless on 1/2 to 3/4 of fronts. Silver spring stiff or super stiff.



sorry Fuzzy you posted before i could edit.

Thanks Mike
goblue38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 05:11 PM   #14527
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

i agree with adian

you need some camber up front. set it for even tire wear, and maybe even stiffer front springs.
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 06:30 PM   #14528
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by goblue38
Thanks Adrian
I am running .075 t-bar with only two pod screws to be able to run bigger pinon but i will try three. I have been running niftech traction compound because it has to be odorless on 1/2 to 3/4 of fronts. Silver spring stiff or super stiff.



sorry Fuzzy you posted before i could edit.

Thanks Mike
The 3rd pod screw will free up the rear end giving you more steering. The Copper rear shock spring is the stiffest AE makes. This may be causing some odd effect on the chassis. The Silver is a 8lb spring so it is way softer. I am not aware of any top driver that runs any spring stiffer than a silver or a blue on a t-bar car. I run a green on asphalt ( w/ .068 T-bar/2 screws) and a silver on carpet (W/.075 T-bar/3 screws).

4475 Black 4.000 lb.
4476 Green 6.000 lb.
8451 Silver 8.000 lb.
8452 Blue 10.00 lb.
8453 Gold 12.00 lb.
8454 Red 14.00 lb.
8449 Copper 16.00 lb.

Niftec traction compound is really good stuff so that should be ok if that is what everyone else uses. However, if your track is saturated with another type of traction compound Niftec won't work well. The rule of thumb is you have to use the most popular traction compound at your local track or you car won't work right. Ask the winner of next weeks race what he or she (Hey...Vicky Blackstock and Mark Smyka's GF are both serious wheels!) is using.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 07:11 PM   #14529
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by goblue38
I have a new t-fource and I am having a problem with the wanting to push mid way thur turn. The car has great turn in.Runing on new ozite carpet. Any help would be appreciated.

set-up
Front
0 toe
0 camber
-3 caster
10 block
.18 springs
3mm ride hight
purple crc foams
Rear
white side springs
copper shock spring with 30w fluid
crc light damping fluid
3.5 ride hight
crc gray foams
you definately need to run a softer shock spring.that spring controls the weight transfer from front to back.when you run a stiff spring,it will transfer weight forward very quickly going into the corner creating crazy amounts of turn in and when you get back on the throttle it transfers the weight to the back very quickly creating your push.you want to get a good balance of weight transfer.if you lighten the spring up a little it will slow the transfer of weight down a bit and not be quite as aggressive going in but will pick up steering through the turn because the weight is not transfered back at such a quick rate.i hope this makes sense.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 07:37 PM   #14530
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Goblue,

I have a t-force which I have been running on asphalt, we go indoors on the first of next month. I found that on the asphalt at least this car pushed more compared to other cars on asphalt, I would expect the same when I hit the rug. My hot setup for asphalt was dble pinks up front with greens at the back (stock class) I could put up faster laps than 19T sedan with that setup and when I went to 19T we were lapping better than mod Sedan. When I hit the rug I intend to try the dbl pinks in the front with whites on the back. This car will probably be my mod or 19T car on the rug, I'll be running a rev4 in stock.

While I remember, I was running the RED centre spring on the asphalt which was stiffer than most people where I race but I frequently came out on the top of the pile.

Chris.
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 07:41 PM   #14531
Tech Master
 
whynot's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,481
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Hello everyone I have a t-fource and I was wondering how long the shock is supposed to be.And is it determined by how much droop the rear of the cars has.I just put the new crc shock on and it is very smooth more so than my silva shock I had.So what is my target shock length = droop on the rear. thanks
mike
whynot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 07:42 PM   #14532
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

hmm,red on asphalt is very odd.more power to ya.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 07:59 PM   #14533
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by whynot
Hello everyone I have a t-fource and I was wondering how long the shock is supposed to be.And is it determined by how much droop the rear of the cars has.I just put the new crc shock on and it is very smooth more so than my silva shock I had.So what is my target shock length = droop on the rear. thanks
mike

For club racing I run my car at 4mm and it usually races down to 3.5mm (after ~5-8min runs...2 practice, 2 quals, 1 main) for the mains. At the Nats I will start out at 3.5mm in practice and run 3-4 sets of tires down to 3mm ride hight. At that point I will use one of these sets for every qualifier so my car is always at 3mm.

I like my car to be level to .5mm higher in the rear. The rear pod and chassis should be on the same plane. The middle of the car should not be jacked up or lower then the front and rear of the car.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 11:24 PM   #14534
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Since you guys are talking about shocks... I was wondering what my options are for aftermarket shocks other than the associated one, or even just a different color associated shock. Was hoping for a nice black or maybe red one for my Corally Euros Spec. Lastly, any suggestions on where to buy it.

Thanks,
Ike
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2005, 11:39 PM   #14535
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

ike,

I really like the new crc dura shock, I built a t-fource for a friend with the new shock and it feels nice and smooth and is easy to build. I have a silva shock on one of my cars and there is a very good reason I haven't replaced the oil for 3 months.

Chris
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:51 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0