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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-18-2005, 08:21 PM   #14506
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An update: How does this sound.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Merciless
Check your shock length then mate.

It sounds like it might be too short at full extension. You alter that by unwinding the plastic ends alittle each end.

I think ideally you want the length set so if you lift the car you have about .5 to 1mm of upward movement from rest with batteries etc. in the car (droop) before the shock is at full extension.

Have i explained that in a way you understand ?? it makes sense to me but then i wrote it
Well I lengthened the shock by winding out the ball ends until just the thread was covered and I've ended up with this.....

Rear pod height 4.5 mm (however there is a .5 mm difference from the rear of the pod to the side by the tweak springs).

Height at the battery is 4.5mm with 1 mm of up travel before the shock is at full extension (using a silver spring wound in about 1/2 way).

Although it's a bit tricky with the slop in the ball cups to take into account (with regards up travel) , so I'm measuring it by lifting it up from the pod ball stud.

Height at the front is 4.5mm

Sounding better I hope?

Also now that it is level should I be trying to maintain this straight line no matter what the tire diameter is?

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 09-19-2005 at 05:19 AM.
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Old 09-18-2005, 08:29 PM   #14507
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what i do to set my car up is first,i pull the shock off the car.i fully extend the shock and bring the adjuster nut in until it just kisses the spring.(spring still rotates freely).then i shim the tplate on the rear pod to make sure it is flush with the chassis.then i install the shock.load the batts and electronics in the car.now i set my shock lenght so the rear pod is level.(do not adjust the spring,use the ball cups)once this is set,then i work with ride height.this will depend on tire size.adjust like you normally would with ride height adjusters for the rear and shims for the front.when you complete setting your ride height,double check that your rear pod is level.ride height should be set at the back of the chassis and at the front of the chassis.the height of the pod will follow.most important is to keep the rear pod level.if you do all of this,your droop is set correctly.you just dont want the shock to overextend.you want travel for the t plate to flex.
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Old 09-18-2005, 08:41 PM   #14508
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Post What's.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
what i do to set my car up is first,i pull the shock off the car.i fully extend the shock and bring the adjuster nut in until it just kisses the spring.(spring still rotates freely).then i shim the tplate on the rear pod to make sure it is flush with the chassis.then i install the shock.load the batts and electronics in the car.now i set my shock lenght so the rear pod is level.(do not adjust the spring,use the ball cups)once this is set,then i work with ride height.this will depend on tire size.adjust like you normally would with ride height adjusters for the rear and shims for the front.when you complete setting your ride height,double check that your rear pod is level.ride height should be set at the back of the chassis and at the front of the chassis.the height of the pod will follow.most important is to keep the rear pod level.if you do all of this,your droop is set correctly.you just dont want the shock to overextend.you want travel for the t plate to flex.
a t-plate?

Forgot to mention I've got a new link car (my first 1/12th).
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Old 09-19-2005, 04:09 AM   #14509
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oops,sorry buddy.
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Old 09-19-2005, 05:37 AM   #14510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
this is from a Yokomo Mar 05 release:

T-Bar Tweak-Free Plate
Installs underneath the t-plate to provide equal left/right balance without using tweak screws.

http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...es/npr0305.htm

supposedly the parts are out there according to Mr. Itoh at Yokomo...i haven't seen them for sale ?
I know you can walk into Yokomo in Irvine and walk out with all the parts
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Old 09-19-2005, 06:08 AM   #14511
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How does the Yokomo "T-Bar Tweak-Free Plate" work? Will it work with any T-Plate car?
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Old 09-19-2005, 06:12 AM   #14512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
Well I lengthened the shock by winding out the ball ends until just the thread was covered and I've ended up with this.....

Rear pod height 4.5 mm (however there is a .5 mm difference from the rear of the pod to the side by the tweak springs).

Height at the battery is 4.5mm with 1 mm of up travel before the shock is at full extension (using a silver spring wound in about 1/2 way).

Although it's a bit tricky with the slop in the ball cups to take into account (with regards up travel) , so I'm measuring it by lifting it up from the pod ball stud.

Height at the front is 4.5mm

Sounding better I hope?

Also now that it is level should I be trying to maintain this straight line no matter what the tire diameter is?
Think your about there dude , sounds ok to me anyway.But i'm sure there are guys on here with alot more experience with the link cars than me , but hopefully your on your way now
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Old 09-19-2005, 07:24 AM   #14513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Mandio
How does the Yokomo "T-Bar Tweak-Free Plate" work? Will it work with any T-Plate car?
Basically it is a flanged spacer that replaces the front pivot ball and bolts your t-bar perfectly parallel to your chassis. When you install it you can no longer conventionally tweak your car. If your left and right tires are exactly the same size, your camber is the same left to right is the same, you t-bar is straight and your chassis is flat your should be dialed.

If something is off in any of the above you will need to true the tire on the heavy corner of the car a thousandth or two to tweak the car .

This is no biggie for Masami or any other factory drive because they NEVER re-run tires at big races and every time they touch a board they put in a new t-bar and front springs.

For us mere mortals the standard pivot and tweak screws are a more manageable option
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Old 09-19-2005, 08:57 AM   #14514
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Thanks Adrian.
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:15 AM   #14515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
do you run my 1/12th chassis kit?the pods are a mounted a little different than the stock ones.they are made specificly for my conversion kit.let me know and i will check on shipping for you.pods are in stock.
Thanx Jason,

parts are with me. Sent on 15th and here on the 20th
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Old 09-19-2005, 03:32 PM   #14516
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excelent buddy.im glad they got there quickly.

adrian,
you hit the nail on the head with the t plate brace dude.all this talk about 1/12th is getting me pumped to run mine again.if i get it back this week im gonna run it this weekend.
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Old 09-19-2005, 03:50 PM   #14517
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Yeah, my lowered pod plates arrived in the post today also Jason. Thanks for the awesome service , now there available !!
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Old 09-19-2005, 04:06 PM   #14518
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no problem buddy.i hope you guys like the finish on them.all of the new pod plates are going to come with that high polished finish.i also made the ride height adjusters a much better fit.
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Old 09-19-2005, 10:24 PM   #14519
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Hi all,
My local track just opened a new asphalt track that is super smooth & high grip. I spent the last week drooling and cursing that I just sold my XrayT1. (Ive been offroading)

I'm thinking of getting an Assosciated RC12L4 to run on this track. I've still got my Novak SS5800 Brushless setup. Would this combination go together? Anyone run this brushless with 4 cells before?

How does a pan car handle minor bumps? The tracks is smooth now, but I'm wondering about it going a little bumpy later.

I'm not planning on racing, just getting back onroad for fun
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Old 09-19-2005, 10:51 PM   #14520
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Hmm double post......
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