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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-18-2005, 01:19 AM   #14491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVA
Anybody know were you can pick up a Yokomo SP-12MS1 Body? Do they still make it? Is it any good?
We might have some left in stock ..I'll check my LHS monday....[/QUOTE]

according to www.stormerhobbies.com website they have 1 instock
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Old 09-18-2005, 02:27 AM   #14492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Shepherd
You can buy the T Bar part here - http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/

Does anyone know when the other parts will be available??
Let me know if you manage to do so.

Sorry, but, I tried to order that particular parts from them almost
a month ago. After a few emails, and PM in this forum, I got a note
from them last Thursday that they actually don't have it in stock.
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Old 09-18-2005, 02:52 AM   #14493
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A setup question.....

Before the question I have to say I do know that it can be solved if I had a tire truer (it's on the list) but before then.....

I've just finished building my first 1/12th (a Rev4) and at the moment I have out of the box tires (parma pse) and because of their size I've had to put shims under the front steering blocks and install different (from kit) axel carriers to lower the rear end.

The ride height I've ended up with is 5mm at the very rear of the pod, 4mm along side the tweak springs and 3.5mm beside the batteries. However I've got a front ride height of 4.5-5mm as well.

Unfortunately I don't have any more shims for the front so I'm wondering will this do until they wear down a bit (or I get a truer) or should I try and lower the front even more and if so how?

If it will do for now will it adversly effect the handling?

Also is the height in the other places ok as they are?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-18-2005, 03:00 AM   #14494
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5mm to the rear and 4.5 / 5mm at the front would be ok if a little high. What you need to do is raise the height in the middle of your car by winding on the spring alittle on the center shock. You want the chassis in as straight a line as possible from front to back. Evan if it's not exactly level you want it to be STRAIGHT and not saging or bowed upwards.
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Old 09-18-2005, 03:26 AM   #14495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merciless
5mm to the rear and 4.5 / 5mm at the front would be ok if a little high. What you need to do is raise the height in the middle of your car by winding on the spring alittle on the center shock. You want the chassis in as straight a line as possible from front to back. Evan if it's not exactly level you want it to be STRAIGHT and not saging or bowed upwards.
I can do that by winding in the spring all the way but that only results in a .5mm increase making it 4mm in the middle, still slightly "bent" lol.
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Old 09-18-2005, 04:20 AM   #14496
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Check your shock length then mate.

It sounds like it might be too short at full extension. You alter that by unwinding the plastic ends alittle each end.

I think ideally you want the length set so if you lift the car you have about .5 to 1mm of upward movement from rest with batteries etc. in the car (droop) before the shock is at full extension.

Have i explained that in a way you understand ?? it makes sense to me but then i wrote it
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Old 09-18-2005, 04:37 AM   #14497
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Thumbs up Cool thanks.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Merciless
Check your shock length then mate.

It sounds like it might be too short at full extension. You alter that by unwinding the plastic ends alittle each end.

I think ideally you want the length set so if you lift the car you have about .5 to 1mm of upward movement from rest with batteries etc. in the car (droop) before the shock is at full extension.

Have i explained that in a way you understand ?? it makes sense to me but then i wrote it
No worries it makes sense I'll check it out tomorrow (it's getting late here in NZ) and I was wondering about how droop was checked in 1/12th anyway.

The shock is a short as it can get as it happens. I assumed from the instructions that the plastic ends should be on as far as they can.

Thanks.
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Old 09-18-2005, 10:04 AM   #14498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
just saw it listed at towerhobbies at $279 (order pending)
the reflex 12 which to me still appears to be more trick is listed at $217 but still is on order since last year
The Black Widow is better than the Reflex 12. There were some odd problems with the Reflex that have all been addressed in the Widow. It will be an awesome 1/12th car.
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Old 09-18-2005, 05:21 PM   #14499
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Hey Adrian or one of you other fast guys, can you give me a rundown on what bodies have what tendencies. I was told that the parma speed 8 is the best and then the protoform speed 12 but no one said why.

Thanks
Bob
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Old 09-18-2005, 05:58 PM   #14500
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both those bodys are very neutral and produce enough down force for carpet racing.
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Old 09-18-2005, 06:41 PM   #14501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Hey Adrian or one of you other fast guys, can you give me a rundown on what bodies have what tendencies. I was told that the Parma speed 8 is the best and then the protoform speed 12 but no one said why.

Thanks
Bob
For Stock and 19T I tend to like the Parma Speed 8 for carpet and the Protoform Speed 12 for asphalt. The Parma is balanced and has good traction and moderate stability. This is good for carpet because you generally already have plenty traction and you need a car that reacts fast. The Speed 12 has more traction and more stability. This is better for asphalt as you want the car to be really planted and stable.

Really fast Mod guys run the Speed 12 on carpet but they setup to get all the grip and steering they can get and drive smooth to make the car fast.
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Old 09-18-2005, 07:13 PM   #14502
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Default battery config

at the Worlds in Kisseme FL i noticed that most of the cars (12L4, Yok 2005 12L4 SP ed., and Xenon) in the A-main had cells configed in the 12l3/4 horizontal config. to top that i see that Trinity is going to release a new 12th car with the cells in the 12L4 config (and with a AE front end to boot). this is surpizing since they have run the cells in the vert config for quite a few years

opinions?
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Old 09-18-2005, 07:20 PM   #14503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
at the Worlds in Kisseme FL i noticed that most of the cars (12L4, Yok 2005 12L4 SP ed., and Xenon) in the A-main had cells configed in the 12l3/4 horizontal config. to top that i see that Trinity is going to release a new 12th car with the cells in the 12L4 config (and with a AE front end to boot). this is surpizing since they have run the cells in the vert config for quite a few years

opinions?

IMO it doesnt really do anything to the handling of the car. either way (vertical/horizontal) the length is the same. perfectly squared! i used to run l3 and the battery configuration is a little pain to store in the batt box since the bridge sticks out and u have to bend them.
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Old 09-18-2005, 07:22 PM   #14504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The Black Widow is better than the Reflex 12. There were some odd problems with the Reflex that have all been addressed in the Widow. It will be an awesome 1/12th car.
I.E PITA front end to adjust
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Old 09-18-2005, 08:06 PM   #14505
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cells mounted from front to rear allow you to narrow the chassis up quite a bit.the cells are pretty much squared up in physical size but the weight is not evenly distributed from edge to edge.the cells are heaviest at there centerline which means when they are mounted front to rear you are moving the majority of the cars weight closer to the centerline.this will result in a car that rolls less.it will change direction faster and be less prone to oversteer through chicanes.you do not loose all of the roll it is just lessened which in the testing we have done with our 1/12th kit,it seemed to work out better for us.we tried alot of things such as battery placement horizontally and vertically,placement front to rear,changing roll center with pocketing under the t plate and wheelbase.battery config seemed to work the best front to rear,lowering the t plate didnt work very good(too much rear traction created a push)we shortened the wheelbase slightly and due to different racing conditions made the battery adjustable from front to rear.all and all,for what we were looking for,this is what worked well for us.
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