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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-13-2005, 02:06 PM   #14446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Cypress,

I'm getting a rev4 conversion for Stock on the rug this year. Do I want to run the low roll center cones? What do they do for my handling?

Thanks,

Chris
Chris,

I changed from the regular to the LRC cones when I went from my Frankenstein Rev. 3.5 to the regular Rev. 4. Seemed to make the car a lot smoother all around, I ran them all season in both stock and mod. I'm in the middle of moving right now, but when I get settled and unpacked i'll PM you my stock setup from last year. Off the top of my head I think I was running:

Old front end, 20 springs, 1 deg toe out, servo flat, 3.5mm ride height front and rear, purple fronts. Battery forward, red center spring, 80 wt oil, 1mm pod droop, CRC heavy dampener lube, white (i think, might be blue) side springs, grey rears, CEFX body.

If you need any help with the car let me know, hopefully i'll be running carpet more often than I ran asphalt this year.

-James
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Old 09-13-2005, 02:06 PM   #14447
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Default Do I have to live with this porblem?!

Hi all,

I would appreciate some help!

I did some testing/practice today... I am fighting a tweak and I think I have always lived with it, ever since I started with this car last year. My car is a CRC 3.2R. I cannot seem to solve the problem.... Its frustrating! argh! Help.

The car checks out on the teak station. It checks out looking at the chassis by eye suspensing both ends in turn. The front wheel lift off points are the same and it sits parrallel on the front springs. Rear lift off points are the same. I have checked all the king pins and polished them. The front end movement is without any kind of binding, I have trimmed the blocks to make sure all movement is supported and done by the upper and lower ball joints. The rear side springs just touch the balls and no more. The rear pod is free and pivots correctly. I know most of the tricks (but obviously not all of them). Oh and the pennies drop at the same time....

All looks good BUT This is what the car does on the track....

If I put it down and power off straight... it goes straight. Good.

If I take a right hand corner nice and hard... like if I was comming onto the straight, come out of the corner and power up... the car tends to go left under power. I am not talking about on power understeer here. I have completed the corner and I want to go straight!

The opposite is also true. If I corner hard left, exit the corner and then apply the power... the car tends right.

I think I have developed ways of driving around this. But... this should not happen surely???

Back on the tweak station.. without the dampers or with them.. I have tried loading the car up on each side to simulate the turn and it comes back true. I cannot see any error.

Do they all do this? It is really doing my head in and I cannot see it. Help... what am I missing.

Cheers

Mark
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Old 09-13-2005, 02:15 PM   #14448
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Is your servo centering properly?
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Old 09-13-2005, 02:24 PM   #14449
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Yes Armed

Servo is fine
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Old 09-13-2005, 02:32 PM   #14450
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Just checking,
I had the same problem a couple years ago, it turned out to be the servo wasn't centering properly.
Any guess to what kind it was?
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Old 09-13-2005, 02:32 PM   #14451
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Check to see if the rear right wheel is not rubbing on the diff cone by overtightening the screws that hold on the wheel. Ihave had that happen to me when i over tighten the screws on parma wheels.
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Old 09-13-2005, 03:02 PM   #14452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
Just checking,
I had the same problem a couple years ago, it turned out to be the servo wasn't centering properly.
Any guess to what kind it was?

I'll bet it was an Airtronics, or even more obviously, a Hitec?
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Old 09-13-2005, 03:18 PM   #14453
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Hitec,
no matter what model or what scale after time they all have issues recentering.
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Old 09-13-2005, 03:34 PM   #14454
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Talking Funny you should say that.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
As long as the body's not tweaking the chassis, or rubbing the tires, it won't have a tremendously negative effect on the car's handling. Besides, as quickly as the Trinity bodies blow out front wheel wells, you'll be painting up a new shell pretty soon J/K!!!!

I do have a spare.

Actually I hope all of what you said still applies when I say the better way I should have worded it is.....

The center line of the body isn't inline with the center line of the chassis by 1mm or so (or not eye straight anyway).

But I checked what you said and there is no strain to fit the holes over the posts (tweaking chassis) and with the steering links not on I can turn the wheels as far as you can in either direction and nothing hits the body.

I was mainly concerned if it would effect the cars ability to track straight initially prior to any steering servo adjustments "maybe" being required as I like to use as little as possible.
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:19 PM   #14455
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What tire truers are people using?
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:29 PM   #14456
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think mine's an eagle racing auto one
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Old 09-13-2005, 08:23 PM   #14457
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Cypress, James,

Thanks for the info, I was running the regular cones last year and I was fast when I went back to stock, I'll run it and see what happens. I like to have a ton of steering too I hope the extra rear traction does not make me lose some of this.

James, That seems like an almost identical setup that I was running last year other than the cones and I was running white's at the back. Maybe whites with low cones will be too much rear traction. We will find out soon. You have missed some great races this year James, hopefully we'll see you soon.

Thanks all,

Chris.
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Old 09-13-2005, 08:41 PM   #14458
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What model of Corally is this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
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Old 09-14-2005, 12:52 AM   #14459
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It's a non standard V car. The V was a 6C saddle pack car from mid 90s. It had a really cool rear suspension. Front to aft is done through the side bars that is connected to the lower brace via the pair of screws on either side in front of the rear wheels. Side to side was done through the axle that you can see as a small shiny dot in front of, and under, the rear axle tube. You set it up with the silver thingies up front on the side bars. One could get it to steer with the rear, so it could be very, very fast on small tight tracks. It was apparently a pain to set up properly, so the company released the G2 shortly after.
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Old 09-14-2005, 12:58 AM   #14460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
Hi all,

I would appreciate some help!

I did some testing/practice today... I am fighting a tweak and I think I have always lived with it, ever since I started with this car last year. My car is a CRC 3.2R. I cannot seem to solve the problem.... Its frustrating! argh! Help.

The car checks out on the teak station. It checks out looking at the chassis by eye suspensing both ends in turn. The front wheel lift off points are the same and it sits parrallel on the front springs. Rear lift off points are the same. I have checked all the king pins and polished them. The front end movement is without any kind of binding, I have trimmed the blocks to make sure all movement is supported and done by the upper and lower ball joints. The rear side springs just touch the balls and no more. The rear pod is free and pivots correctly. I know most of the tricks (but obviously not all of them). Oh and the pennies drop at the same time....

All looks good BUT This is what the car does on the track....

If I put it down and power off straight... it goes straight. Good.

If I take a right hand corner nice and hard... like if I was comming onto the straight, come out of the corner and power up... the car tends to go left under power. I am not talking about on power understeer here. I have completed the corner and I want to go straight!

The opposite is also true. If I corner hard left, exit the corner and then apply the power... the car tends right.

I think I have developed ways of driving around this. But... this should not happen surely???

Back on the tweak station.. without the dampers or with them.. I have tried loading the car up on each side to simulate the turn and it comes back true. I cannot see any error.

Do they all do this? It is really doing my head in and I cannot see it. Help... what am I missing.

Cheers

Mark
on carpet, a combination of too much toe-out and and diff that's too loose may cause this.

i had a trim problem once, every other turn it seemed like it would reset and driving down the straights was a guess from lap to lap. it was a slight binding in the front end. to check for this, remove the screw that holds your servo saver so you can remove it with the linkage intact. should move side to side freely. i do this everytime i make a camber adjustment because the top suspension pivot ball eyelets can bind after only minor changes
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