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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-11-2005, 11:07 PM   #14416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjs3350
i'm brand new to 1/12, and recently got a CRC bloody knife 3.1. it's got an 86t 64 pitch gear on it. i'm not really sure what pinion to use. i've heard different answers from 3/1 to 5/1. i'm running a low grip carpet track (not ozite). pretty large track, usually with one long straightaway that spand about 60-70 ft. any help would be appreciated.

thanks,
matt
First of all, are you running stock or modified? Gearing for 1/12th is determined by gear ratio and tire diameter, called rollout. Rollout for modified (depending on wind) is about 35mm; for stock about 40. Change to a 96 or 100 tooth spur, that is the norm.
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:24 PM   #14417
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sry i forgot to add that i run stock motors
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:36 PM   #14418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjs3350
sry i forgot to add that i run stock motors
Rollout for Monster Stock about 40mm, Roar Stock about 42, depending on the track.
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Old 09-12-2005, 06:27 AM   #14419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig
Fuzzy, which springs are you looking for and what color?

Kraig
KT Hobbies
Kraig - I'm looking for a pair of Wolfe orange springs for the damper disks on a 12L4. Do you have any in stock?
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Old 09-12-2005, 06:46 AM   #14420
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Dave,

If Kraig doesn't have them... Talk to Bud. I just got some from him this summer.
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Old 09-12-2005, 06:50 AM   #14421
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OD,

I have my roll out the other way around for those two motors, I run the epic ROAR not quite as tall.

I was running those xxx brushes still this weekend and they were very soft, by the 5th run they were slow. I think I'm going to stick with the 767's

Chris
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Old 09-12-2005, 09:40 AM   #14422
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to whoever replied to me

its no trouble - the hobby for me is designing custom bits putting parts of other cars etc and trying to get it all to work - one thing id like to know is why does a touring car 'work' and a pan car dosent (on street) also i will only be using on smooth streets and carparks (and the pros seem to drive just fine outdoors)

im guessing that the only thing that makes these cars crap on street is 2wd
- i say this because i had a micro rs4 which is basicly a 4wd pan car and that handled gr8

i just need to understand the physics of it all - my car i drive to work in can do 70mph round corners etc so why does the pan spin out over 25mph??

do i need rubber tyres?

etc etc

Alex
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Old 09-12-2005, 12:06 PM   #14423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
do you run my 1/12th chassis kit?the pods are a mounted a little different than the stock ones.they are made specificly for my conversion kit.let me know and i will check on shipping for you.pods are in stock.
Hi Jason

It's the BMI conversion I have as seen on your website

pic of my chassis was scanned hence the quality

regards,

Glenn
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Old 09-12-2005, 01:04 PM   #14424
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Hey guys,

I'm thinking of ditching TC for 12th scale for a few months (if not forever...LOL) I've never actaully raced 12th but when I've practiced it I've been faster & more consistant than the top 12th scale times posted at my local track by the regulars. I currently run the T-Fource which I feel is a super strong 12th scale car but I'm looking at the new Trinity car because it has the IRS rear diff, the L4 front end and those super-slick Trinity pods. I'm curious to see what you guys think about the "Black Widow"

-Dan
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Old 09-12-2005, 01:21 PM   #14425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
Hey guys,

I've never actaully raced 12th but when I've practiced it I've been faster & more consistant than the top 12th scale times posted at my local track by the regulars.
-Dan
LOL

The black widow looks like as good a car as any 12L-based platform out there, but Trinity's parts support for their 12th scale cars hasn't been the greatest.

-James
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Old 09-12-2005, 02:40 PM   #14426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
LOL

The black widow looks like as good a car as any 12L-based platform out there, but Trinity's parts support for their 12th scale cars hasn't been the greatest.

-James

It's also the Trinity molded front-end, which is different than the AE dynamic strut front-end, and quite a few Trinity drivers actually trash the new pod and run the Older Switchblade style pods because they actually work better that way.
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Old 09-12-2005, 03:53 PM   #14427
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After suffering "Servo Tweak" using the stock universal servo mounts on my T-Fource I purchased some CRC aluminum ones. Well..... my Futaba S9602 is too wide and is way off center of the pre drilled holes in the chassis... My question is is the JR z3550 the only one that will fit those holes properly or will the Airtronics 94145 fit as well. The reason I ask is because all the pictures I see of CRC cars have the JR servo in them... I can aquire a 94145 cheaper then I can a z3550 so if the 94145 fits just as good I would rather go that route. Besides I only use Airtronics servos in all my other cars. This stupid Futaba came with the car. So if any ones wants it I'll sell it pretty cheap....

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-12-2005, 04:13 PM   #14428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
Hi Jason

It's the BMI conversion I have as seen on your website

pic of my chassis was scanned hence the quality

regards,

Glenn

i can get em to ya buddy.shoot me an email through the website and remind me about the urgency and i will get em out for you.
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Old 09-12-2005, 04:46 PM   #14429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
LOL
Arluck, I'm talking about HW Gilroy....not NorCal in general (I've never run Stockton) LOL.

I love that rear pod...whats wrong, is it too heavy or something?
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Old 09-12-2005, 05:44 PM   #14430
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Default 1/12 servo question; FUT 9650 or 9602 ???

Hi guys,

I am new to 1/12 and just building my L4. I will need to make a choice soon as far as a servo goes.

Obviously I've done some reading, but still have some questions.

I have a choice to buy 9650 or 9602 for the same money, so my question is which one to go with. In my opinion 9602 seems to have upperhand because it's faster at 4.8V and have enough torque, but should consume the same if not less power then the digital 9650. Slower, but higher torque which I am not sure is that needed for light 1/12.

Any opinions welcomed.

Thanks
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