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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-08-2005, 11:57 PM   #14386
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thanks adrian!

which bodyshell are you using with that setup?
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Old 09-09-2005, 03:09 AM   #14387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperform Racing
Hey guys... Who makes those thick fiberglass t-bars, I believe they're 0.081? I thought it was power push for some reason but I couldn't find it on their site...
http://teampowerpush.com/catalog.html

Thicknesses from .070 to .081 in .001 steps
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Old 09-09-2005, 08:57 AM   #14388
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Hi im new to all this

in the past i had a mardave 1/12 scale car its basicly like these cars
but a lot simpler - i modified it put a diff on it and a custom carbon chassis
the suspension was none existant on the front and primative on the back

anyway the days of that car are long gone and i got an rc12l3 with the hara hammer chassis

i do not want to race this car. i am aiming to do the same as the mardave car
build a car that handles O.K without messing around with all these detailed setups.

ill be running a cheep modified motor (21t) and 6 sub C cells or 8aa cells (2400s) i want the car to do about 35mph tops

the chassis will be redesigned to have no holes in it for batteries (velcro straped on) etc just the screw holes and anywhere where it can be done there will be more carbon
between the edges and the holes (eg the little blue posts at the back will be coming out as i cant see that they do anything)

all im looking for is a car that will be drivable on the street and strong as hell
mabee race the odd kid with cheep tamiya

will it work!?

i have cad plans if any one is interested and i have pics of my old car too

main problem i had in the past was spinning out pulling in one direction and crap handling (needing a whold car park to turn at full speed)

any help would be great

alex
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Old 09-09-2005, 08:59 AM   #14389
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oh 1 more thing - it will be using a street style body (like touring but a hatchback - the cars that we use in the uk)
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:54 AM   #14390
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Default New 12l4

I am just about finished building my 12l4 and I have a few questions.

How do you run a small diameter rear tire? With a new uncut tire on the car I have the rear height adjuster in the middle and there is very little ride height. I can use the lowest insert but that seems dumb to start with that one. There is nowhere else to go once the tires begin to wear. Also, I used the offset (to the rear) inserts so my 19t motor would fit with the 100t spur. Is this right? If so, should I use a smaller gear... 96, 94?

It seems like I can mount the batteries slightly towards the front or rear. What is better? How about a good proceedure for taping batteries in the car?

Should the shunt wire go over the shock or under? If over, do you install new wires? Mine are not long enough. Under requires removal of the shock for every battery change?

I am running the car outdoors on asphalt. The track is approx. 150'x75', pretty fast, high traction but a little bumpy.

Any other setup/build advice?

Thanks,
jag
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Old 09-09-2005, 12:06 PM   #14391
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to run smaller rears, you will need to get the lower pods. IRS or crc makes them.

for 19t a 96 will give you more room for larger pinions.

start with the batteries to the rear and if you need more steering flip the inserts and move the batts to the front

you want to mount the body as low as possible, so i woudl say the wire under the shock. but that would require that you remove the shock everytime you change batteries. but that is what i do
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Old 09-09-2005, 12:12 PM   #14392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
to run smaller rears, you will need to get the lower pods. IRS or crc makes them.

for 19t a 96 will give you more room for larger pinions.

start with the batteries to the rear and if you need more steering flip the inserts and move the batts to the front

you want to mount the body as low as possible, so i woudl say the wire under the shock. but that would require that you remove the shock everytime you change batteries. but that is what i do
Do you use the lower pods? What about the "T" plate... use the thin one?

Do you use anything on the disk?

Do you use any other optional parts?

Thanks for the help.
jag
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Old 09-09-2005, 12:32 PM   #14393
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yes on the lower plate.

thin t-bar

start out with nothing on the plate. I find that the thicker the fluid, the less the car will roll. almost like a sway bar effect.

you may want to change out the axles. the c-clips are just a pain and you always lose a couple each outing. the lower front arms are good to have as well from irs. they allow you to run smaller fronts. the smaller the tire the lighter the car and the less mass that has to be turned by the motor
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Old 09-09-2005, 10:22 PM   #14394
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Is anyone using the Atsushi Hara 1/12 scale conversion for AE and Yokomo cars, and if you are what do you think of it?
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:01 PM   #14395
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I am using the Hara Hammer conversion kit with my 12lc parts. It is a good car for the fact that you don't have to worry about breaking t-plates.

However getting the grahite chassis pieces is alittle harder to get unless your local hobbyshop carries them. Hotbodies won't sell direct to individuals, that is why I had my lhs setup an account to be a dealer to get those parts. Stormer Hobbies only carries the hardware for the car.The chassis plate is flexible and not as wide as the others. The parts that I have broken are the lower rear pod plate and the chassis plate.

Some of the guys on here use the Hara with dampner tubes instead of the dampner disk. There might also be parts that Hara uses that we can't get. So it all depends on what you are looking for in a car or conversion kit. Their are so many out there that the all have their pro's and cons.
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:15 PM   #14396
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Hey Carlos, how is the Hyperform 12 treating you?

I trust you received your cells by now also...
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:23 PM   #14397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperform Racing
Hey Carlos, how is the Hyperform 12 treating you?

I trust you received your cells by now also...

I can't speak for Carlos but after his first two practice runs, he had a big smile on his face.... I think he told me it was handled very well with his first time out.
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:38 PM   #14398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aljsk8
Hi im new to all this

in the past i had a mardave 1/12 scale car its basicly like these cars
but a lot simpler - i modified it put a diff on it and a custom carbon chassis
the suspension was none existant on the front and primative on the back

anyway the days of that car are long gone and i got an rc12l3 with the hara hammer chassis

i do not want to race this car. i am aiming to do the same as the mardave car
build a car that handles O.K without messing around with all these detailed setups.

ill be running a cheep modified motor (21t) and 6 sub C cells or 8aa cells (2400s) i want the car to do about 35mph tops

the chassis will be redesigned to have no holes in it for batteries (velcro straped on) etc just the screw holes and anywhere where it can be done there will be more carbon
between the edges and the holes (eg the little blue posts at the back will be coming out as i cant see that they do anything)

all im looking for is a car that will be drivable on the street and strong as hell
mabee race the odd kid with cheep tamiya

will it work!?

i have cad plans if any one is interested and i have pics of my old car too

main problem i had in the past was spinning out pulling in one direction and crap handling (needing a whold car park to turn at full speed)

any help would be great

alex
I know what type of car you speak of... and I wouldn't suggest going through all that if you just want to mess around on the street primarily. 1/12 scale cars are awful on the street and any unprepped surface that isn't carpet for that matter.

If you want something to bash around with on the street that is strong just do yourself a favor and get an older touring car. The AWD may seem complicated and like a pain at first but the abilty to bash around with them in a parking lot puts pan type cars to shame.
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Old 09-10-2005, 06:41 AM   #14399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
yes on the lower plate.

thin t-bar

start out with nothing on the plate. I find that the thicker the fluid, the less the car will roll. almost like a sway bar effect.

you may want to change out the axles. the c-clips are just a pain and you always lose a couple each outing. the lower front arms are good to have as well from irs. they allow you to run smaller fronts. the smaller the tire the lighter the car and the less mass that has to be turned by the motor

So if I want to stiffen the rear up I would put some fluid on the disks. The thicker the fluid the stiffer the car... right?

I already changed the front axles... c-clips bad.

I will look into the IRS front arms.

Thanks,
jag
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Old 09-10-2005, 08:22 AM   #14400
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hey guys,
here is a pic of the new BMI lowered Rear Pod assembly.let me know what you think.
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1/12 forum-new-rear-pod.jpg  
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