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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 09-11-2002, 09:27 AM   #1426
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I don't have any calipers yet so I can't calculate rollout but with brand new tires I have been running 28/96 with my green machine, one or two teeth higher with a P2K.
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Old 09-11-2002, 04:34 PM   #1427
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Tres- Try e-m'ing Speedworld on the stock motor. Their mod's are great and I just saw a review of stock motors where the Luna was included (try RC Car or Car Action, Extreme had one but the Luna wasn't in it).

I THINK roll-out is: Pinion x Tire Size x Pi / Spur (ie. 22x1.90"x3.14/104=1.26=my normal 8turn roll out. OR 29x1.85"x3.14/100=1.685=stock motor??)

KenSmith- Everything newracer said except we normally put the traction compound on the Inside edge working toward the outside edge of the tire. BTW we normally use Paragon Ground Effects as it is the best. When wintergreen based tire traction addative like Paragon is not allowed then we normally use Racer's Choice TQ8+ or TQ Mod. Trinity Zip Free is also a pretty popular non-wintergreen based traction compound. Read back through the previous posts if you can since they contain a lot of information including tire traction do's and don'ts.

LouisB- I Think flipping the beam over helps to keep it straight since the beam can probably suffer some fatigue in the center of it. Thus turning it over every now and again helps to keep it from bowing and thus adversely affecting the spring rate.
Also would check out either the Parma Speed8 or the Yokomo Body that Masami used. The Parma Speed8 really makes the car stick better with better steering. The Protoform P35 is still a good body especially if you are running stock but for mod I think one of the other two bodies work just a little better. Protoform may be doing something with their Bentley Speed8 but we will have to wait and see. Mr. Dale Epp is a fantastic guy and good Christian brother who tries his best so expect good things in the future as I hear his new Sedan body is killer.
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Old 09-11-2002, 04:48 PM   #1428
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Do you think it is o.k to use Motor spray/lighter fluid on foam tyres(corallys) or is it to aggresive.?.
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Old 09-11-2002, 06:20 PM   #1429
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We use lighter fluid to clean our tires when we run oval. I wouldn't expect too much of a difference in the foam used for our cars between different foam tire manufacturers.
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Old 09-11-2002, 06:23 PM   #1430
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Hey ya'll....havent been here in awhile......No racing going on????Maybe when it kewls down.......My 12LW is almost a 12L3....cept for the chassis..........Carpet Knife got to race....finally....about a month ago....now is on extended vacation.
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Old 09-12-2002, 04:47 AM   #1431
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Well, got my car speedo, servo, 10 sets of tires, parts, springs, you name it, i am ready. just waiting on the cells. Thought about calling in sick today........
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Old 09-12-2002, 02:33 PM   #1432
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Default question?

where can a person find teflon tape? for the pod plate pucks.

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Old 09-12-2002, 03:48 PM   #1433
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EricF: plumbing section of any hardware store?
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Old 09-12-2002, 07:10 PM   #1434
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EricF....I belive that CRC sells the stuff that you are looking for. I think the stuff Tres is talking about will not work for this aplication.
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Old 09-12-2002, 11:40 PM   #1435
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Default Halloween Trophy race

For those of you interested there will be a Trophy race held at Ultra Racing in Hamilton, OH on October 26th. There will be some great 12scale action as this is the home track of guys like Eli Ezrow, Junior Norton, Chris Doseck, Michael Lufaso, Mike Pulfer and so on and on, There will be 12scale stock and mod classes as well as sedan stock and mod.
check their website for details or visit the thread.

1st Annual Terror Lane Halloween Race!!
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Old 09-13-2002, 12:09 AM   #1436
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Stevie- Kraig hit it on the head. i personally use motor spray because it dries faster (i picked this tip up from Josh Cyrul). Your tires should be fine doing either one since this is what most people do during the indoor season of carpet racing (late Sept-March). At big races we normally run a set of tires twice during the weekend, anymore than this can slow lap times and cause traction rolling. At club races usually the grip level isn't as high and you can run a set of tires for three runs. This means that using the standard 2 practice, 3 qualifier, 1 main club race format you only need two sets of front and rears. At big races where you often get a full day or two of open practice (except Cleveland) so that you do around 4-6 practice runs, 4 qualifiers, and 1-3 main runs if you make the "A" you obviously need a few more sets. Something like 4-6 sets of front and rears would be in order.
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Old 09-13-2002, 01:02 AM   #1437
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darnold, do you bring frankie to the track with you?
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Old 09-13-2002, 12:01 PM   #1438
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Here's my G2, and very hurried paint scheme
Edit: sorry about the picture I've got a very crappy digicam
Attached Images
File Type: jpg corally g2.jpg (27.3 KB, 145 views)
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Old 09-13-2002, 08:02 PM   #1439
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Nice paint bro.. do you run that car on asphalt or carpet?

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Old 09-13-2002, 08:10 PM   #1440
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Motor spray works great! I got that one from Trips at a local race a few months back when I was starting in the hobby. Some people gave me flack saying it degraded the rubber and contact cement that the Jaco uses to mount the foam on the rims but feel that the people teaching me about the hobby, like Trips, know a great deal more than these weekend warriors. He also showed me the Ronson lighter fluid trick but it's one less thing to pack in my already staggering pit boxes.

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