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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-06-2005, 10:58 PM   #14371
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Price was posted on the P-Dub website. $134.95 was listed price.

www.pdubracing.com
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:02 PM   #14372
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I emailed them, they are out of stock.

Bill........see you in Vegas?
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:04 PM   #14373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Just went to the website. No info on the kit there . Maybe soon when he start the production for the kit. do you know the approx $$$ for the kit?
You will not find any information about the BMI 1/12 conversion on their website. Jason has a full time, very busy machine shop. He only gets to do RC car stuff when he can fit them in between the machine shop orders he gets.

The kits are around $140. They are of extremely high quality. Most kits you have to sand and or file the edges of all of the carbon fiber parts before you CA the edges. With the BMI pieces, no sanding or filing. Just glue the edges. It has a short wheel base which is good on carpet and the batteries are fairly close to the center line of the car which also makes it good on carpet.

It is probably the nicest kits currently available. To get one, just call BMI during regular business hours and order one. They will take credit cards over the phone.
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:12 PM   #14374
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BMI is out of stock too.
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:24 PM   #14375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
You will not find any information about the BMI 1/12 conversion on their website. Jason has a full time, very busy machine shop. He only gets to do RC car stuff when he can fit them in between the machine shop orders he gets.

The kits are around $140. They are of extremely high quality. Most kits you have to sand and or file the edges of all of the carbon fiber parts before you CA the edges. With the BMI pieces, no sanding or filing. Just glue the edges. It has a short wheel base which is good on carpet and the batteries are fairly close to the center line of the car which also makes it good on carpet.

It is probably the nicest kits currently available. To get one, just call BMI during regular business hours and order one. They will take credit cards over the phone.
What is the Wheel base of the BMI Conversion Kit versus the RC12L4 or Hara H12?

--Kevin
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:27 PM   #14376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
I emailed them, they are out of stock.

Bill........see you in Vegas?
Jim,

If you go to the LV post office, they may still have my picture up on their Most Wanted wall.

Haven't entered; but, I may fly down to spectate at some point if work isn't too bothersome that week. Interbike (my last racing passion was with mtn bikes) is also that same week at the LV Convention Center. Could kill two birds with one trip.

Good skill (luck) to NorCals best...You are da main man in 12th with help from OD and Crashby.

Bill
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:14 AM   #14377
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Thanks,

Hope to see you there.
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Old 09-07-2005, 06:31 AM   #14378
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yes, the t-shaped brace for the rear body mounts is included

check the web site under products, under associated. there you will see the conversion for the 12th. i know the assoc pic is for a tc4, but just follow the link
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Old 09-07-2005, 07:07 PM   #14379
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The BMI conversion will be ready to ship next week. If you have any questions about it, you can PM me. I don't get to look threw the all forums as much as I would like, but I'll do my best to help out. If any questions have been posted about the conversion that haven't been answered, shoot them over to me. I'm usually looking threw the BMI 1/12 conversion thread, you can post there too.
Thanks,
Wayne
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Old 09-07-2005, 07:59 PM   #14380
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hey guys,

i have a bunch of the 1/12th kits 99% complete.i am finishing the new style pod plates now and should have them completed by tommorow or friday.there is also going to be a slightly new look to the kit.we have incorperated a few minor changes for the new carpet season that really came out nice.i will post a pic this week.
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Old 09-07-2005, 08:07 PM   #14381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Hey guy's does anyone have a photo of the BMI conversion kit? Just curious what it looks like. Also Do you guy's recommend them for the 12l4. Or is the car better with out it. Any info would be great. As 12 scale season is soon upon us here. trying to get ready to lay down some serious lap times.

here is a pic of the kit.

the kit includes the chassis,cross t brace,upper pod plate for damper tubes and washers,lower c/f pod plate,aluminum pod plates,aluminum self centering dampening post,all aluminum standoffs and mounting hardware.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-12l4-web-pic.jpg  
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Old 09-07-2005, 09:45 PM   #14382
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does anyone here run a CRC T-force on asphault?
Im running an 8 turn and i was interested in any setups
people may have for them on asphault?

thanks
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Old 09-07-2005, 11:21 PM   #14383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
Thanks,

Hope to see you there.
Jim, OD and Steve,

United had a new deal with frequent flyer miles from SFO to LV. I'm coming in on Friday morning. Stardust is full so I will be at the Tuscany. Just spectating, PBing, cheering for my buds and catching a show.

Now, I really will have my pic at the PO.
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Old 09-08-2005, 07:33 AM   #14384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AL-HEX
does anyone here run a CRC T-force on asphalt?
Im running an 8 turn and i was interested in any setups
people may have for them on asphalt?

thanks
Try this:

Front:

.020 Spring, no damping
10deg Reactive caster.
4 deg static caster
1.5 deg neg. camber
No link between the Left and Right front suspension
Servo Angled with ball studs in middle holes on Kimbrough servo saver.
1.80" Double Pink front tires
Sauce 1/2 inner with Paragon FXII for 15 min then resauce with Trinity Tire Tweak for an additional 15 min.

Rear:
.68 T-Bar using only the two outer holes
Remove side springs and use conventional tweak screws
30wt oil in center damper, green spring (try 25wt if the track is bumpy)
Trinity white grease in the side damper tubes
1.90" Pink rear tires
Sauce whole tire with Paragon FXII for 15 min then resauce with Trinity Tire Tweak for an additional 15 min.

The ride height will be ~4mm but I race it down to 3mm for ideal performance. With this setup you car will not slide much so tire wear is really good.

An 8 Turn on asphalt is kinda nutty unless you are running at a tiny track that is all 180's. Most Mod guys run a 9 or 10 outside. I would try 24/100 with 1.9 rear tires and an 8 turn. If you get a 9 or 10 run 25/100. These gear ratios are pretty standard. Its pretty much up to your finger whether you dump or not...lol!
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Old 09-08-2005, 11:50 PM   #14385
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Hey guys... Who makes those thick fiberglass t-bars, I believe they're 0.081? I thought it was power push for some reason but I couldn't find it on their site...
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