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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 09-01-2005, 09:52 PM   #14341
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WOW great news thank you!
Team Express Motorsports
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Old 09-01-2005, 10:03 PM   #14342
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Fully understood Jim.

I'm going to see Matt win in TC Mod.
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 09-02-2005, 02:25 AM   #14343
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Fast-Ho and Mark
the yokomo bits are available in Japan, i have them on my L4, not that will help my driving, hence i have given up wanting to use a CEFX pod and L4 front suspension.
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Old 09-02-2005, 05:46 AM   #14344
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Originally Posted by jrrc
The Reedy 19t quad runs great and is cheap. Reedy has a hand wound arm (for this motor) as a replacement. You have to gear it fairly tall. l run 36/96 with 1.8 tires. There may be others than are slightly faster, but for the money the Reedy is great and fast enough to win races.
Thanks for your input. I remeber how fast you were at the Utah State Champs not to long ago. What brush/spring do you like for the Reedy?
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Old 09-02-2005, 05:54 AM   #14345
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A_Stratus, you may have to put a capacitor in the receiver with the QC2.
Team Horizon-Team Spektrum-Tekno-Kyosho*B-FAST R/C Performance*TQ Racing Wire Products-TNT-FX.COM-Avid RC-Dynamite-*AKA*92Zero Design*
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Old 09-02-2005, 09:12 AM   #14346
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For the Reedy 19t I use red+/green- springs and Trinity XXX LeMans brushes.
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Old 09-02-2005, 02:47 PM   #14347
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Originally Posted by A_Stratus
I was wondering if anyone has had any problem with running their Spektrum in their 12th scale with a QC2? I plan on running my T-Fource w/ QC2 and Spektrum, on Ozite... anyone having any problems?

End of last season I started to have problems with my stock receiver that came with the Helios, switched to the spektrum system. It seemed to solve the problem. As it turns out, I was just too elated to be able to drive the car around the track. I was using the Quantum (first gen.), not the QC2.

Then I started to notice the problem that seemed to gradually grow worse as time wore on. I just pulled the spektrum system and put the KO stuff back in my car (I also fixed the original problem with the stock equipment, too)... Here is the symptoms; full charge, sitting on the line just before the race starts, car creeps forward in the grid hitting the car in front of it. No control over anything. Twitch the steering wheel rapidly, nothing for the first few turns, then starts to respond to like every other turn. Still no ESC functionality. The group decides to wait for me to re-bind my reciever. Start the race ok, three laps in, no steering and car stuck on full throttle... early retirement.

Second qual, same deal, only this time with a 4700 mf cap... it was no help.

The reason the transmitter didn't work with the stock gear and does work with the spektrum, the lowest pin of the Helios was pushed in half-way. I thought it was supposed to be like that, as it was like that since I purchased it. I opened the transmitter and the pin pushed the through hole plating, along with part of the trace from the board, ripping the trace off the board, disconnecting whatever that lowest pin was supposed to be connected to... the antenna lug. I fixed that problem by pulling the pin back in place, soldering a wire from the end of the pin to the lug, bypassing the board. I also took a moment to cut the trace foil back so that there is no intermittant contact to cause noise.

I am back to running on crystals, glitch free, and no caps required.

I do have a bad low voltage problem with my transponder, as it always clocks in with a low signal strength...

my $2.00...
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RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
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Old 09-03-2005, 01:40 AM   #14348
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What kind of springs are most of you using with a monster stock?

Also, what profile are you guys that are using the GT7 finding to be the best for 1/12th stock?

I'm using some good IB3800 cells, but it was my first time running them and have heard they aren't all that impressive the first run.

I also didn't have a clue how to gear since this was my first time running 1/12th scale in years...

Besides my shaky driving the car felt a little sluggish and I'm just trying to optimize things and make more improvements for my next time out.

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Old 09-03-2005, 01:45 AM   #14349
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Mike L.

i checked out your site on the 12L4 set-ups. i was wondering what your or AE's thoughts are on battery placement? effects, etc.?

at the Worlds in Kisseme FL i noticed that most of the cars (12L4, Yok 2005 12L4 SP ed., and Xenon) in the A-main had cells configed in the 12l3/4 horizontal config.

to top that i see that Trinity is going to release a new 12th car with the cells in the 12L4 config (and with a AE front end to boot). this is surpizing since they have run the cells in the vert config for quite a few years.
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Old 09-03-2005, 03:42 AM   #14350
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Here's some more info of the new Trinity.
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
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Old 09-03-2005, 10:11 AM   #14351
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The "Black Project" is coming

Darkside Motorsports
"We Are What's Next"
Team BSR
Team Power Push
Protoform Race Bodies
KSKT Racing - #1 in SK Racing Chassis
Darkside Motorsports - "WE ARE WHAT'S NEXT." - www.darksidems.com
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Old 09-03-2005, 10:20 AM   #14352
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Ike-The 38's do seem to take a few runs to really come alive. I run a 767 narrowed up a little bit with green springs. Rollout for Trackside should be around a 1.55-1.65. I haven't run a GT7 in a while, but I believe it is profile 6. Look for the one with the lowest drive frequency.
Thanks to pops

TLR, Fantom, Horizon, Spektrum, Trackside
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Old 09-03-2005, 06:03 PM   #14353
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Hi everyone,

I just bought a JR Z-1 and have a lot of questions about steering set-up. Can anyone give me some ideas for steering curve and steering speed, both turn in and return? I'm running stock on a very tight carpet track.

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Old 09-03-2005, 08:42 PM   #14354
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Default Trouble with irs2132 Large D-Ring Diff Assy

Dumb rookie question but when I ordered my new rear diff from IRS for my rc12l3 I quickly realized I was missing some parts. I did not see instructions on the IRS web site. Can anyone post a photo of the assembly and arrangement or parts in order?
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Old 09-03-2005, 08:47 PM   #14355
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Bike doctor. You would get a good idea by looking at the associated website as they have an explosion diagram if the L4 on thier website, you should be able to see all you need from there.

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