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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-29-2005, 08:49 PM   #14311
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Anyone's using Reedy Ti Worlds 9x2 on your 1/12? how do you tune/gear this motor for 8 mins 3300mah outdoor?
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:55 PM   #14312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
Hey, has anyone had problemns with mounting the "open cockpit bodies", such as the crc, parma, cefx, and protoform bodies on an L4, or cars with dampener posts in general? I needed to cut a hole for the post in my crc body, but have seen pictures with out this needing to be done. Did I just mount it off a little?
With most bodies on the L4 you will need to do something like this. The damper post can be cut shorter and another spring can be used on top. I mounted the CRC body on my car and had to cut a hole for the post....even the Speed 8 you need to cut a hole to get it lower.
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:41 AM   #14313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
Anyone's using Reedy Ti Worlds 9x2 on your 1/12? how do you tune/gear this motor for 8 mins 3300mah outdoor?
First, if you are running the big comm lay down brush Ti Motor you are better off saving it for a sedan. It is just too inefficient to be useful in 1/12th. You really should get something else like a Ti3.

If it is a Ti3 use Reedy 766 brushes, Reedy standard copper springs not the sliver or blacks that have been coming with motors lately. Break the motor in until you see the full face of the brush is in contact with the comm. Time the end bell to pull ~8A at 2v. Gear it 24 or 25/100 with 1.90-1.95 tires.

From there on its all about your throttle finger...lol! There is no way you can run full bore and make time. You have to throttle drive.
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Old 08-31-2005, 09:17 PM   #14314
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Hi Guys
Im new to 1/12 scale and would like to know if there are any links to sites where I can learn to set up these little rockets.
Thanks
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Old 08-31-2005, 09:19 PM   #14315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabboy
Hi Guys
Im new to 1/12 scale and would like to know if there are any links to sites where I can learn to set up these little rockets.
Thanks
Mike Lufaso's website: http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
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Old 08-31-2005, 10:26 PM   #14316
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Yes, Michael L's website is a must.

But, odpurple, jrrc, crashby and crimson eagle are the gurus of the left coast that contribute tons to this string.

Thanks to all of them.
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Old 08-31-2005, 11:06 PM   #14317
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Maybe a dumb question, but on Mike Lufaso's website, there are some of his previous setup data there and i noticed the "motor timing" he normally used is something like 0.160" - 0.170" is that in inches or what? or i measure 0.160 inch from the 0 degree and set the timing to that position?
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Old 08-31-2005, 11:39 PM   #14318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
Maybe a dumb question, but on Mike Lufaso's website, there are some of his previous setup data there and i noticed the "motor timing" he normally used is something like 0.160" - 0.170" is that in inches or what? or i measure 0.160 inch from the 0 degree and set the timing to that position?
Yes it's in inches, and yes you measure from the 0 deg mark.
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Old 09-01-2005, 03:33 AM   #14319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K
With most bodies on the L4 you will need to do something like this. The damper post can be cut shorter and another spring can be used on top. I mounted the CRC body on my car and had to cut a hole for the post....even the Speed 8 you need to cut a hole to get it lower.
I simply shortened the post and the top spring accordingly. Not ideal, but it works.
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Old 09-01-2005, 05:37 AM   #14320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
Maybe a dumb question, but on Mike Lufaso's website, there are some of his previous setup data there and i noticed the "motor timing" he normally used is something like 0.160" - 0.170" is that in inches or what? or i measure 0.160 inch from the 0 degree and set the timing to that position?
Yes, that's correct. I find it's more reproducible than estimating the timing as 12 or 14 degrees. I should have probably explained how I obtain that setting.
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Old 09-01-2005, 07:38 AM   #14321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
I simply shortened the post and the top spring accordingly. Not ideal, but it works.

You can also use the front suspension springs from Wolf. They are naturally shorter. Popular springs for this application are the orange or the blue.
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Old 09-01-2005, 09:27 AM   #14322
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Default Yokomo parts

Does anyone have any Yokomo 1/12 scale motor mount and left hub bulkhead for sale. I had a lot of my stuff taken with my 1/12 scale and i am trying to build one back up from parts. Really any kind of pod bulkheads will work, just money is tight. Thanks everyone.
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Old 09-01-2005, 10:16 AM   #14323
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Has anyone else thought of making up a chassis to run a CEFX C12 rear end with an Associated 12L4 front end?

After some measuring and head scratching I figure its possible, althought pod length and wheel bases are different and complicated Mind you I have a UK company who's made bits for us before and figure it could be awsome with the best bits of both cars

Cheers
MarkB
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Old 09-01-2005, 10:29 AM   #14324
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Thought about it, but not got around to it....
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Old 09-01-2005, 07:27 PM   #14325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBurgess
Has anyone else thought of making up a chassis to run a CEFX C12 rear end with an Associated 12L4 front end?

After some measuring and head scratching I figure its possible, althought pod length and wheel bases are different and complicated Mind you I have a UK company who's made bits for us before and figure it could be awsome with the best bits of both cars

Cheers
MarkB
other than the CEFX using a longer t-bar, the CEFX R-pod looks like it would
mount up to a 12L4 type/variant chassis. ODPurple on this forum would probably know........


if your looking at getting a 12l4 frontend type car with rear pod that has a 4 screw top plate and redesigned left pod plate...checkout the:

BMI 12th car
IRS Rugrat new rear pod updates
Yokomo 2005 Masami 12L4 updates (according to Robert Itoh / Yokomo sales they are available)http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...es/npr0305.htm

has anyone seen the new Yok 12th stuff for sale? anywhere?

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 09-01-2005 at 07:44 PM.
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