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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-26-2005, 07:38 PM   #14296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsjusme
What compounds are the violet fronts?
Purple outside edge and Magenta inner....kind of like a plaid tire.
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:14 PM   #14297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynoman007
spring steel is not good for t plates on road .....

run fibreglass when they get the white stress marks in them towards the back replace them asap ......
I have been running a Silva medium/heavy spring steel T bars on my Yokomo YRX-12WE, outdoors, on asphalt for the last two years and I have had great success running them. I never have a lack of rear traction and they never break! Oh, and I forgot to mention that they never go out of tweak!!! I tried for a year to get my team mate to try one and when he finally did, he now feels the same way I do about spring steel T bars.

I will never run fiberglass T bars again!!
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:27 PM   #14298
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DavidL: Thanks for the explanation, that clears it up for me!

Spring steel t-plates can bend, you do have to chck them every now and then. But, they are awesome. One of on-roads best kept secrets. We keep them in stock, if anyone needs one ....

Question: Does everyone run trailing front axles or inline? If only trailing, why?

Thanks!
Jake
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:54 PM   #14299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPH Racing
Question: Does everyone run trailing front axles or inline? If only trailing, why?

Thanks!
Jake
Jake, What's up buddy? Good to see you at the Birds this year! Everyone I have seen/know use trailing front axles. Can't answer why
Take care - Paul Paras
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Old 08-26-2005, 10:16 PM   #14300
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JPH,

I run trailing front axles, never tried the inline ones on my 12th scale. I did try it on my F1 car (F103). I wasn't too impressed with it the car did not handle as well, not as consistant. I do have a pair of inline axles but I've never ran them. You will lose a lot of fron ride hieght adjustability as the axles are higher up in the block.

Crashby,

did you get the monitor program working? Give me a call and let me know.

Chris
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Old 08-27-2005, 08:10 AM   #14301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPH Racing
DavidL: Thanks for the explanation, that clears it up for me!

Spring steel t-plates can bend, you do have to chck them every now and then. But, they are awesome. One of on-roads best kept secrets. We keep them in stock, if anyone needs one ....

Question: Does everyone run trailing front axles or inline? If only trailing, why?

Thanks!
Jake
Spring steel T bars will bend but you would have to crash pretty hard to bend one. You oval guys do have some spectacular collisions, I must say.

The inline steering blocks (spindles) makes the cars steer much quicker. I have found them to be too difficult for me at least, to control the car. Some of the "world class" drivers can use them effectively but not you’re mid to high handicappers.
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Old 08-27-2005, 08:33 AM   #14302
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Crashby - Thanks for the reply.
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Old 08-27-2005, 11:04 AM   #14303
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I have my 1/12 scale for sale. CRC FK05 and LOSI for sale
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Old 08-27-2005, 11:25 AM   #14304
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You should think about posting better pictures. The picture with both cars, I can barely tell there are cars in the picture. People like to see what they're buying.

Good luck.
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Old 08-29-2005, 05:53 AM   #14305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
I have been running a Silva medium/heavy spring steel T bars on my Yokomo YRX-12WE, outdoors, on asphalt for the last two years and I have had great success running them. I never have a lack of rear traction and they never break! Oh, and I forgot to mention that they never go out of tweak!!! I tried for a year to get my team mate to try one and when he finally did, he now feels the same way I do about spring steel T bars.

I will never run fiberglass T bars again!!

Has anyone run a spring steel T-plate on a 12L4 for asphalt racing? Any pros/cons? I broke yet another T-plate this weekend ... wondering if I should try this?
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:13 AM   #14306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etulk007
Has anyone run a spring steel T-plate on a 12L4 for asphalt racing? Any pros/cons? I broke yet another T-plate this weekend ... wondering if I should try this?
Read my post about spring steel T bars in a post nine posts back in this thread.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:54 AM   #14307
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They run fine for club races but they are a bit heavy and can bend. It's hard to tell if a steel T is messed up. You have to strip it down and put in on a really flat surface to tell. If if the steel T is not dead flat its trash. It really is surprisingly easy to mess up a steel T bar. People think they last longer because they never really break and no one checks them.

With a fiber T bar if it is failing it turns white or breaks. I would rather have a part fail rather than have a bent part on my car and not know it.
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Old 08-29-2005, 09:56 AM   #14308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
They run fine for club races but they are a bit heavy and can bend. It's hard to tell if a steel T is messed up. You have to strip it down and put in on a really flat surface to tell. If if the steel T is not dead flat its trash. It really is surprisingly easy to mess up a steel T bar. People think they last longer because they never really break and no one checks them.

With a fiber T bar if it is failing it turns white or breaks. I would rather have a part fail rather than have a bent part on my car and not know it.
I am still running the same spring steel T bar that I put in my Yok at the beginning of 2004! Of course, nothing is indestructible but I have never bent a spring steel T bar. I would venture to guess that if you bent one, the car would handle poorly. The simple left, right turning radius check would determine if a T bar was bent. Because I never have any serious shunts on the track anymore, I would much rather have a T bar that holds it's tweak rather than have to check a fiberglass T bar for stress fractures after every run. Fiberglass T bars will go away even if you don't crash heavily.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 08-29-2005, 10:06 AM   #14309
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Hey, has anyone had problemns with mounting the "open cockpit bodies", such as the crc, parma, cefx, and protoform bodies on an L4, or cars with dampener posts in general? I needed to cut a hole for the post in my crc body, but have seen pictures with out this needing to be done. Did I just mount it off a little?
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Old 08-29-2005, 10:21 AM   #14310
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I currently have a L4 , converted to damper tubes , and have one of Joshs new open cockpit bodys on it , no problems , just make sure to mount it so the rear tires are centered in the wheel openings .
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