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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-24-2005, 01:43 AM   #14236
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hi

Does anyone know if the asso t-bars fit the calandra T-force car?

Cheers
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Old 08-24-2005, 02:04 AM   #14237
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They fit.
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Old 08-24-2005, 05:24 AM   #14238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gatto
hi

Does anyone know if the asso t-bars fit the calandra T-force car?

Cheers
If you order a fiberglass t-bar from CRC, it is identical to the one offered from Associated (.075 thick).

I just picked up one of each from the LHS and they are identical. CRC's are $4.99 and AE's are $5.00, so you can save a penny. *L*

Later,
JB
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Old 08-24-2005, 05:32 AM   #14239
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thanks guys!!

I'll have to carefully calculate this new variable into my budget...

btw: could anyone give their coments on the difference in handling between the carpet knife and the t-force on carpet tracks!!

thanks
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Old 08-24-2005, 07:21 AM   #14240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gatto
hi

Does anyone know if the asso t-bars fit the calandra T-force car?

Cheers
I think CRC buys them from Associated so yeah they fit.
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Old 08-24-2005, 07:26 AM   #14241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperform Racing
Dave you run a links car also, correct? Let me ask you guys this, what do you do with your side springs if the car feels lazy? I assume you run a stiffer side spring, correct? At least that's what I did when I ran links cars. I guess I could see how the "negative" damping of the tube could cause the car to be a little lazy. In other words it's not just damped when the pod rotates from center but also on the way back to center.

Anyway, I tend to go against the grain a lot anyway.
As a good example, tonight I was running 12th and the new layout has a ton of quick switch backs and chicanes. The layout was actually put down by Bruce Carbone, we live close to each other and race at the same tracks. Anyway, I lightened up my rear end, both center spring and damping wise and my car not only felt lazy but pushed like a dump truck full of concrete. I stiffened the center spring up again and put buds lube back in the tubes and it was dialed. What's the weight of buds lube anyways? That stuff is like maple syrup flowing right off the tree.

Wow, looks like you answered your own question. There isn't any rule of thumb for me about the side springs/dampening and the center spring/dampening except that you try to take what the track will give you. I run a Tee-plate car now and haven't run the link car for 4 seasons. I am not going to participate in the link vs tee-plate argument that some enjoy. I have run good and bad with both. I would like to give a plug for the IRS Rugrat conversion. It is virually identical to the CTC T Force. Actually the RugRat might have been release first, but I don't remember. But this vehicle is one of the best kept secrets in 1/12 scale.
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Old 08-24-2005, 09:42 AM   #14242
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I wasn't really asking a question Mr Lee except to see what you did in a certain situation with your setup. Also, if you read back a few pages,we aren't having a t-bar vs links conversation but rather a discussion about damper tube fluid.
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Old 08-24-2005, 10:21 AM   #14243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darnold
FactoryRacer- why not run a Speedmerchant Rev. 4? It's an awesome car that goes together well and it has lot's of corner speed and is Very rugged. The two other cars you mentioned as well as the Corrally, T-Force(CRC also), BMI and Hyperform just to name a few are great cars and you can't go wrong with any of them. I like the Rev.4 and you can check it out on that thread. Ian R. (Cypress Midwest) is awsome with customer support and can answer your questions regarding the Rev. 4, something to look into maybe.
Thanks for the "up" Dave. The Rev. 4 is awesome, and you can't beat the kind of support you get from Bruce and the rest of the team. Just check out the Rev. 4 thread here on RCTech. The car is fast, easy to set-up and maintain, and IMHO, it's the best looking chassis on the market. If you wanna run something different than the run 'o the mill T-bar clones, this would be a good chioce.

All the current cars are good though , so like everyone posted above, it's a personal preference. Since the only thing that ever really breaks on any of these cars is actually an AE 12L or aftermarket 12L part, the parts support issue is pretty much a non-point. The Corally and Trinity cars are the only ones that don't use an AE front-end!
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Old 08-24-2005, 10:26 AM   #14244
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Really the chassis I ran last year and love it still is the PRC Quad 12. Its a Tbar clone, but has a nicely thick chassis, and a tapeless battery retention (not the rubber band system that the CRC knife's use).


The T-Force is a nice looking car, but seems a bit of cash for what it's got. I was looking at the speed merchant and it also looks spiffy.

One of the parts I am going to start using this year that I have heard lots of good about is the PowerPush Tbars. The 2 stage Tbars in .001 increments. I have a handful of them coming in in a few weeks.

They are expensive though, I think 6.99 a bar, but to get a bit of a quicker Tbar that can help help with transitioning a bit faster, I think its worth it.
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Old 08-24-2005, 10:46 AM   #14245
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Clegg, the first line of your sig is killer!
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Old 08-24-2005, 10:47 AM   #14246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Already in the works... And, I think I'll also have my Martini shaken, not stirred.


doug
Man, I couldn't count the number of times I've copied the UOP Shadow scheme.
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Old 08-24-2005, 11:10 AM   #14247
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LOL, yeah, all black is a tough one to replicate.
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Old 08-24-2005, 12:26 PM   #14248
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Next time I may do a Lola T70 Mark Donahue tribute.....

Anybody got any Sunoco Stickers?
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Old 08-24-2005, 12:52 PM   #14249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Remember...if you car is sliding anywhere you are scrubbing speed. Get your car stuck down so it just about traction rolls then drive it smooth so it wont traction roll. Some guys think making your car free (not so stuck) makes you fast. This is not the case...you have to drive a stuck car smoothly so you don't scrub speed to be fast.
I have a Rev 4 and am just getting back into the swing of things as far as carpet season goes. I will talk to Bruce about set-up the next time he's at the track (he was missed last night at club racing). However, how does this translate to the r4 in terms of set-up? Currently, my car has Magenta/pink with 022 front, white sides, black center and 50wt. I also run 10k wt in the tubes.

I can audiably hear my rear tires scrubbing in the corners, and it still pushes (slightly). I haven't tried to traction roll the car, as I don't usually like the tires of my car to leave the track. Drivers at the track were saying that my car seems to carry no speed. I have roll dialed into the car. Dope full rear, 2/3 front than less as the night goes on. This is on high bite carpet in fairly good condition (installed in March).

Should I go softer on the rear suspension to gain more traction? Maybe no changes are needed, however, I am not opposed to trying different things to learn set-up and how to drive properly...
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Old 08-24-2005, 02:26 PM   #14250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70
I have a Rev 4 and am just getting back into the swing of things as far as carpet season goes. I will talk to Bruce about set-up the next time he's at the track (he was missed last night at club racing). However, how does this translate to the r4 in terms of set-up? Currently, my car has Magenta/pink with 022 front, white sides, black center and 50wt. I also run 10k wt in the tubes.

I can audiably hear my rear tires scrubbing in the corners, and it still pushes (slightly). I haven't tried to traction roll the car, as I don't usually like the tires of my car to leave the track. Drivers at the track were saying that my car seems to carry no speed. I have roll dialed into the car. Dope full rear, 2/3 front than less as the night goes on. This is on high bite carpet in fairly good condition (installed in March).

Should I go softer on the rear suspension to gain more traction? Maybe no changes are needed, however, I am not opposed to trying different things to learn set-up and how to drive properly...

I'd try Blue side springs, and .020 front springs. I'd also try some Grey rears. Pinks have SOOO much bite on carpet, so you may have the rear hooked up so much the front tires just act like skis.
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