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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 09-07-2002, 01:57 AM   #1411
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petenis: you can find Masami's body on the Yokomo website, it's and MS-1. Part # MS-1 $16.95

The body and the foams you can have your hobby shop order for you just make sure you give them the part number. Beware though a lot of the new products usually are on backorder even though they are said to be released

Last edited by Sigearhead; 09-07-2002 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 09-08-2002, 08:17 AM   #1412
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Help w/ stock motor, brush and spring combinations

Hello I am new to 1/12 scale racing and wanted to get an idea which stock motor works best on a fast flowing track. Can anyone help me with motor, brush and spring combinations? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 09-08-2002, 01:06 PM   #1413
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While we're on stock motors, which are good on very tight twisty tracks. Is the P2K good? I was thinking of maybe getting a Core or a Reedy?
I have experience with modified motors but have never used a stocker before, what difference is there in wear etc?
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Old 09-08-2002, 08:28 PM   #1414
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F1- Don't race stock but I hear that the new Matrix TQ or New Reedy coming out will be really good for high speed tracks along with the standard bearing Green Machine.

Louis- Check out the new Luna Stocker. You can get it at SpeedWorld.
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Old 09-08-2002, 10:40 PM   #1415
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Hey Graphitedust, Glad you found the "rake" problem in your 12th car. I see it a lot, and it can be very difficult to diagnose. Good luck this season.
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Old 09-09-2002, 02:11 PM   #1416
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darnold: i don't really want to make an order from the US just for a motor but thanks anyway.

I got my car today, with plenty of tires and spares. The bodyshells are rather old and battered though so I need to get a new one but I don't know which to get. The ones with it are p35s and are popular at the track but I was thinking about a Bently Speed 8, has anyone tried this body (I like the real car )
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Old 09-10-2002, 08:48 AM   #1417
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Rev.3 Racer: Thanks for the advice! I have totally changed the way I run this car due to the problems I had. I now measure the tire diameter of each wheel after each run and check the ride height at eight locations. I even developed a little work sheet that I write this stuff down on. Makes keeping track of where everything is much more manageable. Even bought a new $100 digital caliper to measure tire dia. Thanks for the help. LC
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Old 09-10-2002, 11:03 AM   #1418
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Everybody seems to run P35s so I will probably get one of those because it's been proven to handle well at the track. I forgot to say that the car is actually a G2 (no instructions but that's what it's supposed to be) and it seems in pretty good condition. Does anyone have any idea on gearing, it came with a rusty 16 tooth pinion and 81 tooth spur but I don't trust the previous owner's gearing knowledge so does that sound about right?

The car has quite a history, it's about 6 years old, has had 2 or 3 previous owners and has won 4 championships!
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Old 09-10-2002, 03:00 PM   #1419
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I was racing at the week-end,& my sponsor was there(modeltech),he said thati was putting to much tyre adertive on,has i was grip rolling,etc,i then said to him that ive started cleaning my tyres with motor spray,he then told me that motor spray is to agressive and could re-act with the foam tyres,i genarally use corally gold rears & silver fronts.But...before knowing this,ive been cleaning my last set of tyres with lighter fluid,if i have time to let them dry,And motor spray cleaner,if i need to clean them quick,and to be honest my tyres lasted a lot longer than not doing them,but i didnt take any notice if it was efecting the tyres on preformance,(has i was using silvers on the rear instead of the usuall gold's),what is your opinion on this..?..?.
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Old 09-10-2002, 08:12 PM   #1420
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That G2 should be a great car for you, I wish I still had mine from '95. Every 3 or 4 race days, you might want to take the front "beam" off and turn it over. My G2 would get a touch slower off the corners if I didn't do this on a regular basis. Other than that, just keep the rear dampener clean and smooth, and you've got a winner.

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Old 09-10-2002, 11:49 PM   #1421
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Trips: It came with about 4 front beams, 2 T-bars and a spare chassis, so I could just put a new one on and save the old one for later
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Old 09-11-2002, 07:05 AM   #1422
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Even if you put a new front beam on the car, turn it over every few race days. I wish I had a solid explanation for it, but I don't. I only know it helped my car stay consistently fast when I did it. When I didn't the car would begin to gradually get slower after about three or four race days.

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Old 09-11-2002, 08:21 AM   #1423
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Default new to 1/12 and tires

Hey guys. I am pretty new to 1/12 scale, as I mostly run sedan on carpet on rubber tires.

My track is indoor carpet (ozite), and I need some recommendations on tires and sauce.

I ran some last year, but never got traction figured out.

Cars: crc carpet knife v3.1 and rc12l3. running mild mods (19t down to 13t). I can't seem to handle any more power than that.

Trying to get some new tires for this winter:
1. what is the best compound for my application
2. what is the sauce technique

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Old 09-11-2002, 08:31 AM   #1424
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purple front, gray rears, sauce the entire rear tire, outside 1/2 of front, little less more less steering/more for more


is some good infor on types of tires and applications
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Old 09-11-2002, 09:20 AM   #1425
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I know I've seen it here before....but????

Need some roll-out help...

I am running a CRC bloddy car on a small, tight carpet track..

What are you guys using for roll-out....

I looked back through the thread, but couldn't find the info anymore???

New Atlas
13t Top Based

I was told around 1.65 - 1.71 to start with by CRC for a P2K...

So, I could kinda guess for the other motors and be close there...

Thanks for any help.....

FYI: Hard to find much of any info on the Luna's....

Last edited by Tres; 09-11-2002 at 09:34 AM.
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