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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-23-2005, 05:57 PM   #14221
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Apexspeed,
I love it.I wish I had the same body on my t-fource.

mike
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Old 08-23-2005, 05:59 PM   #14222
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F'n nice, anyone who does a Gulf Porsche 917 is classy in my book!
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:58 PM   #14223
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Coolest paint job I've ever seen on r/c car! I've always loved that paint scheme.
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:09 PM   #14224
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Great paint job. What body is it?
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:34 PM   #14225
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ok guys i need a little help here. i only have nitro stuff because thats all i have raced so far...im looking in to getting into 12th scale racing.....i have sorta narrowed it down to the crc bloody knife 3.2 R or the AE RC12L4?????? what is the comparasent of the two??????which is better....and why?????

i also need some help on what i would need if i dont have any electric stuff.......
what will i need to get me started and what can i get to help me after words...sum little things that will help me out........ie pinons spurs anything

one more thing.......what spares would i needd.....bearrings???arms???t-plates????what would i need

thanks

Mike
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:35 PM   #14226
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oo wait ...i have the duratraxx intellipeak charger...the one with the screen...it does discharge...fastcharge...and also it cycles the batteries...wil that be fine to just use a charger like that??

thanks
Mike
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:56 PM   #14227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
McMahon is one of the fastest 1/12th drivers on carpet and he always runs red stuff in his damper tubes everywhere he goes.
I am assuming you are referring to the Trinity "RED" above, correct?

To all on this thread:

All of you guys ROCK. I read this thing all the time and try to absorb as much as possible.

I know I am going to drag myself into the whole reactive castor topic at some point...

Thanks,
JB
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Old 08-23-2005, 09:31 PM   #14228
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Thanks guys, I'm always wound up about how I paint my own cars. I can never do anything for myself that I am happy with, but I can crank out cool lids for others when I need to. I always said I'd just as soon run an all white car to take all of the stress out of painting my own stuff. I wanted to do something different from what everyone else seems to be stuck on these days (read: Hara-esque). I decided that this winter, my cars are going to resemble some of the greats from Can Am and LeMans of the 60s and 70s. Wait until you see what else I have in mind for later this winter.

picco007: Its a straight Protoform Speed 12. I have a couple other different bodies here to play with, mostly open cockpit, but to get my feet wet getting back into carpet racing, I figured I'd go for something that everyone seems to trust.

factory racer, out_to_lunch & others: Guys, I have been out of carpet racing since the early 90s, and off-and-on with road racing for a few hours here and there since then, and this winter, I decided to get back into it with a track close to home that promises some good racer turnouts. I carefully planned out a mode of attack with literally everything to buy for R/C racing again.

I have two suggestions for anyone looking to jump back into it.

1) Buy the best gear you can afford, the first time, so that it is the ONLY time you buy that item. Starting over again, EVERYTHING I had in the shop was obsolete. I decided that if I were to race again, I'd do it right the first time. Do it right, or don't do it at all, right? Don't be affraid to buy cars and parts here and on eBay. Careful searching and planning can lead you to some great items and great deals like the $65 CE PitBull charger or the $55 collection of 29 pairs of new foam tires. There are a few people selling their whole 12th collections, and it's a good way to jump in with both feet, and take a lot of the guessing out of what to buy.

2) Listen to everyone's opinions, and make the decisions on your own mind. All of the 12th cars are great cars, as they really haven't changed since they came about in the early 70s. It's low tech at it's very best. All of the cars out there can win with the right setup and right driver. Put your cash into the batteries and motors, and pick a car, they will all be supported, and any info you get here can apply to just about all of them.


Like I said, I have been away for a long time, with a lot of left-hand turns on the dirt in between, so this whole twisty thing is going to be like starting over again. My only goal is to have fun doing it. I hope that this class grows like it looks to have potential to do this winter. Get out there and join me tearing up some of these pretty lexan bodies.


See you guys on the track,


doug
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Old 08-23-2005, 09:45 PM   #14229
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I think we'll be seeing other retro schemes as I have a couple of McLaren Denny Hulme schemes in mind; simple but those cars ROCKED.

I also have an old L&M scheme in mind too.

JB
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Old 08-23-2005, 09:45 PM   #14230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
ok guys i need a little help here. i only have nitro stuff because thats all i have raced so far...im looking in to getting into 12th scale racing.....i have sorta narrowed it down to the crc bloody knife 3.2 R or the AE RC12L4?????? what is the comparasent of the two??????which is better....and why?????

i also need some help on what i would need if i dont have any electric stuff.......
what will i need to get me started and what can i get to help me after words...sum little things that will help me out........ie pinons spurs anything

one more thing.......what spares would i needd.....bearrings???arms???t-plates????what would i need

thanks

Mike
Hey....i have the l4 and it is a very nice kit. I havent broken a part yet, but maybe keeping a set of the front lower arms would be a good idea. I hit my friends rug rat at full speed and it snaped the arm...a pretty horrific crash, but none the less. Um, maybe a t-bar or two..and the only bearings I can think of keeping on hand are the bearings in the diff as hitting the wall ruin them. And probobly just diff parts such as the d-rings and diff balls. Also maybe the trinity white, red, and purple stuff, or other diff oils/shock oils/lubes to tune the tubes or plates....just read the past few pages about dampening stuff...lol
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Old 08-23-2005, 09:53 PM   #14231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by out_to_lunch
I think we'll be seeing other retro schemes as I have a couple of McLaren Denny Hulme schemes in mind; simple but those cars ROCKED.

Already in the works... And, I think I'll also have my Martini shaken, not stirred.


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Old 08-23-2005, 10:08 PM   #14232
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what would i need to get going though...

1.kit
2.batteries
3.ESC
4.soldering iron
5. battery bars.
6.pinion gear set
7.foams
8.servo
9.motor


anything else guys...i no there are a lot of little things that help you out on the way...just list sumj stuff to me

thanks

Mike
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:08 PM   #14233
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FactoryRacer- why not run a Speedmerchant Rev. 4? It's an awesome car that goes together well and it has lot's of corner speed and is Very rugged. The two other cars you mentioned as well as the Corrally, T-Force(CRC also), BMI and Hyperform just to name a few are great cars and you can't go wrong with any of them. I like the Rev.4 and you can check it out on that thread. Ian R. (Cypress Midwest) is awsome with customer support and can answer your questions regarding the Rev. 4, something to look into maybe.
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:25 PM   #14234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
what would i need to get going though...

1.kit
2.batteries
3.ESC
4.soldering iron
5. battery bars.
6.pinion gear set
7.foams
8.servo
9.motor


anything else guys...i no there are a lot of little things that help you out on the way...just list sumj stuff to me

thanks

Mike
1.L4, T Force, Carpet knife, Rev 4, BMI, Reflex, Slapmaster, corally...and all the others
2.Gp3700 & IB3800's...by reedy, trinity, orion, peak, pro match, smc, lrp, gm, hurricane, pole position...etc
3.lrp Q2 or new q3 when avalible, Nosram version of Lrp, Novak GTX, Gm SX12W, KO VS-1, Yokomo Masami or Rayspeed...etc
4. The hakko looks nice...i own a cheap iron, but want to buy a hakko eventually
5.Hmm, orion, lrp, gm, smc, trinity, hurricane....etc
6.robinson, kimbrough, crc
(spurs also...i like rw's, or there is kimbrough..etc)
(silicone wire...GS seems to make good wire, novak..etc)
7.TRC(my personal favorite...lots of compunds), Corally, CRC, Jaco, Parma
8. Ko, Futaba, Airtronics, Jr
9.Mod and stocks by: GM, LRP, Reedy, Nosram, Orion, Peak, Team 1, Paradigm, Epic, Trinity, Fantom
bodie(s):Trinity, Protoform, Parma...etc
servo tape
paint
ca glue
possibly tire truer
comm lathe(and accesories for it)

lol..idk, that looks to be about it
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:36 PM   #14235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidl
CONCUR
Dave you run a links car also, correct? Let me ask you guys this, what do you do with your side springs if the car feels lazy? I assume you run a stiffer side spring, correct? At least that's what I did when I ran links cars. I guess I could see how the "negative" damping of the tube could cause the car to be a little lazy. In other words it's not just damped when the pod rotates from center but also on the way back to center.

Anyway, I tend to go against the grain a lot anyway.
As a good example, tonight I was running 12th and the new layout has a ton of quick switch backs and chicanes. The layout was actually put down by Bruce Carbone, we live close to each other and race at the same tracks. Anyway, I lightened up my rear end, both center spring and damping wise and my car not only felt lazy but pushed like a dump truck full of concrete. I stiffened the center spring up again and put buds lube back in the tubes and it was dialed. What's the weight of buds lube anyways? That stuff is like maple syrup flowing right off the tree.

Anyways, I guess it comes down to what works well for you at your track with your car and your driving style. My car with it's slammed t-bar (lowered roll center) has more rear traction by nature then most other cars so a stiffer rear end is usually needed. Then again even when I ran a stock L4, my rear end was always stiff and no the car was not sliding/scrubbing in the turns.

Ok, sorry for rambling guys...
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Last edited by Hyperform Racing; 08-24-2005 at 12:05 AM.
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