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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-21-2005, 09:59 PM   #14206
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I was just trying out the 600.
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Old 08-21-2005, 11:08 PM   #14207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Not having done this in about 5 years, is there any feel I should want the car to have when it's in my hands?
Randy and Carlos,
First off the rear pod should be smooth, with no binding in any direction.
As for which lube to use, the only way to tell is by how the car reacts on the track. In general thicker lube will make the car rotate faster in the 180* turns, thinner lube will slow this reaction down and will make the car easier to drive in the chicanes.

If your car is pushing off power going into a corner, use thicker lube.
If your car is over steering, hard to drive, in the chicanes, use thinner lube.

You have to find a happy medium that works for all areas of the track for that day. At this years USPCC I started out with Losi Heavy, then med, to light at the end of the day due to the track changing. You just have to experiment to see what lube suites your driving style and type of disk/tubes your car has.
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Old 08-22-2005, 04:23 AM   #14208
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Is there any use for Corally damper syrup on an L4?
I now run red under the rear pod top plate and blue on the top. The car feels good, but there's always room for improvement.
However, I found on my 10th pancar that uses tubes, that even the lightest Corally syrup is too thick for running on asphalt. It takes away all steering. I now use Losi heavy hudra fluid in it. I took 0.3 seconds of my best lap ever with that new setup!
Any thoughts from the experts?
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:07 AM   #14209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
Is there any use for Corally damper syrup on an L4?
I now run red under the rear pod top plate and blue on the top. The car feels good, but there's always room for improvement.
However, I found on my 10th pancar that uses tubes, that even the lightest Corally syrup is too thick for running on asphalt. It takes away all steering. I now use Losi heavy hudra fluid in it. I took 0.3 seconds of my best lap ever with that new setup!
Any thoughts from the experts?

I'm not an expert by any means but using the corally stuff for your tubes on asphalt is too heavy we think (P2 and myself). I use a trinity white stuff for my 12l4 damper plates since we run on asphalt. P2 introduced me to the losi Hydradrive lubes a while back and I love them but I will probably run out soon and they are not made anymore so I am looking into other lubes to use in my tubes.....hope this helps.
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Old 08-22-2005, 07:03 AM   #14210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picco007
I'm not an expert by any means but using the corally stuff for your tubes on asphalt is too heavy we think (P2 and myself). I use a trinity white stuff for my 12l4 damper plates since we run on asphalt. P2 introduced me to the losi Hydradrive lubes a while back and I love them but I will probably run out soon and they are not made anymore so I am looking into other lubes to use in my tubes.....hope this helps.
That helps yes! And for carpet?
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Old 08-22-2005, 12:22 PM   #14211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picco007
I'm not an expert by any means but using the corally stuff for your tubes on asphalt is too heavy we think (P2 and myself). I use a trinity white stuff for my 12l4 damper plates since we run on asphalt. P2 introduced me to the losi Hydradrive lubes a while back and I love them but I will probably run out soon and they are not made anymore so I am looking into other lubes to use in my tubes.....hope this helps.
OFNA 1/8 th buggy Diff fluids work well and are available in a very wide range of viscosities. I've been using 6000 wt. on carpet.

CRC also has what they call "tube lube" in three viscosities I believe.
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Old 08-22-2005, 12:53 PM   #14212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
OFNA 1/8 th buggy Diff fluids work well and are available in a very wide range of viscosities. I've been using 6000 wt. on carpet.

CRC also has what they call "tube lube" in three viscosities I believe.
I just wanted to jump in on this real quick cypress cause I know you run Bruces car. In general links cars require lighter damping tube fluid then t-bar cars. 6000 weight probably won't cut it on a t-bar chassis in most carpet applications. Ok, back to your regularly scheduled program...
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Old 08-22-2005, 02:44 PM   #14213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperform Racing
I just wanted to jump in on this real quick cypress cause I know you run Bruces car. In general links cars require lighter damping tube fluid then t-bar cars. 6000 weight probably won't cut it on a t-bar chassis in most carpet applications. Ok, back to your regularly scheduled program...
True, true, true, so 50,000 for those who are encumbered by T-bars then eh? J/K.

That's also a very general statement. Back in the day when I ran a T-Bar car, we ran fairly light dampening (bolink lite silicone), if the track had a bunch of switchbacks. it also depends on the tubes you use. Frank's aluminium Tubes have alot more surface area than the tubes we use on the Rev. 4 and therefore the same fluid provides more dampening in those tubes. All depends on your car, the track and how you like to be set-up.

I would think that 6000 would provide pretty decent dampening on an L4 based on the amount of surface area you have with the hockey pucks/top plate set-up.
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Old 08-22-2005, 03:34 PM   #14214
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I always ran 10000 weight on carpet with the rev3/rev4 and anywhere from 20000-50000 weight on disks or tubes in a t-bar car. With lots of switchbacks, I would want the car to react quicker which requires a heavier lube... This is all on high traction carpet tracks.
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Old 08-22-2005, 07:08 PM   #14215
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I never use more then 100wt. on the dampening plates... It isn't consistant. I will change t-bars to a .082" (Power Push) and run the silver center spring. Just my 2 cents...
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:33 PM   #14216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
That helps yes! And for carpet?

For Carpet? You may be able to use the corally stuff or heavier diff lube like 10k or higher.
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:29 AM   #14217
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OK, a lot of different advise here So it's more up to personal preference for a certain setup than just one answer. That's the good thing about racing on carpet: you can be very fast with several philosophy's for setup. Here's my current L4 setup:
Chassis: stock, batteries to front position.
CRC rear pod plates and front axles with nut retainer.
Body: Trinity Lola T310 lightweight.
Tires: CRC grey-purple front tire sidewall coated with CA to avoid traction roll.
Traction compound: Jack the gripper, rear full coat, 30minutes, front 3/4 25minutes.
Ride height: 3.5/4.0
Motor: 10x3 hybrid (epic quad mag can-corally machine wound armature-Reedy standup mucho-expensive silver brush)
Rollout: 30mm
Front supension: .22 springs/10degrees caster blocks/1shim each side/slight toe-in approx 1 degree/-1.5 degree camber
Rear: blue spring/50wt/top spring and spring post shortened 2mm to accomodate body/corally red+corally blue damper syrup/rear pod level with main chassis.
Track: very high traction carpet, almost no apparant straights, lots of switchbacks, layout recently changed, so traction is super-high at one point, but less at other sections of the track (Viol model racing indoor in Germany, www.viol-model-racing.de).
Notes: Without traction compound, the car is very inconsistant because of different traction levels on the track, with agood coat of Jack the car is agrresive, yet very driveable.
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:20 AM   #14218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperform Racing
I always ran 10000 weight on carpet with the rev3/rev4 and anywhere from 20000-50000 weight on disks or tubes in a t-bar car. With lots of switchbacks, I would want the car to react quicker which requires a heavier lube... This is all on high traction carpet tracks.
Odd, I've always found that with a t-bar car or link car, the heavier the dampening the longer it takes the car to center up through switchbacks, making it feel LAZY and unresponsive, I generally tend to run thicker dampening on long sweeping tracks that don't require the car to change direction quickly. The thicker dampening keeps it from rolling over too hard in those long High-G sweepers.
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Old 08-23-2005, 01:20 PM   #14219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
Odd, I've always found that with a t-bar car or link car, the heavier the dampening the longer it takes the car to center up through switchbacks, making it feel LAZY and unresponsive, I generally tend to run thicker dampening on long sweeping tracks that don't require the car to change direction quickly. The thicker dampening keeps it from rolling over too hard in those long High-G sweepers.

CONCUR
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Old 08-23-2005, 04:17 PM   #14220
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Ok, car is 99% done. I went old school and simple on the paint details. All I have to do now is wait for the indoor season to start. I donno if I'm gonna make it... see, I have this patience problem.

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