R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-20-2005, 09:29 PM   #14191
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

Yeah Carlos, keeping a few different weight fluids on you is key (light, medium, heavy). Use them as a tuning aid. The tracks I race on are high traction so I run heavy such as trinity purple stuff. I've never tried crc's damper lube but I'm sure it works well also.
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2005, 10:00 PM   #14192
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone happen to have a part # for Trinity purple stuff?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2005, 10:03 PM   #14193
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The most standard of all damper plate or damper tube fluid/greases are the three Trinity damper greases.

http://www.teamtrinity.com/fluids/fluids.html

White: Light (Generally used on asphalt)
Red: Medium (For Carpet and front king pins)
Purple: Heavy (Not used too often)
Randy, check out the link in Adrian's post, you'll find it there...
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 12:25 AM   #14194
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

The Trinity Website isn't clear on the part numbers so I read the correct #'s off some header cards and edited my post below.

About Damper Grease:

You can go too heavy. I don't know any top Mod drivers that run anything a thick As Trinity Purple stuff anywhere on thier cars at 99% of the tracks.

McMahon is one of the fastest 1/12th drivers on carpet and he always runs red stuff in his damper tubes everywhere he goes.

Remember...if you car is sliding anywhere you are scrubbing speed. Get your car stuck down so it just about traction rolls then drive it smooth so it wont traction roll. Some guys think making your car free (not so stuck) makes you fast. This is not the case...you have to drive a stuck car smoothly so you don't scrub speed to be fast.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 07:08 AM   #14195
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
What type of fluid do you suggest to run in the tubes for the Hyperform car. I just placed my order for a kit. My curiousity about the car is kicking in. So I had to get one.
I use Losi Light, Standard, and Heavy fluid in my tubes (these have been discontinued) there are times when I will use a little thicker "home made" mix. Try 5000, 7000, and 10000 silicone shock oil, Picco007 and I feel that they are very similar to the Losi Hydra Fluid. The Corally lubes are too thick, I haven't tried the CRC stuff yet. Let me know if you need anymore help.
Paul
__________________
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 10:22 AM   #14196
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

I have the crc light which came with my t-fource kit, i think it is much too light, is hardly slows the thing down at all. right now I'm using 10,000 which feels slightly heavier than losi hydra heavy. when i go on the fug I'll be using 50,000. this helps the car rotate in the corners better. I would like to pick up some 7,000 but i don't know that I would ever go lighter than that.
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 10:29 AM   #14197
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I saw the Crimson Eagle take flight last night...Chris was gone from the very get go!

Now, he just needs to keep his TC upright...
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 11:13 AM   #14198
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
I use Losi Light, Standard, and Heavy fluid in my tubes (these have been discontinued) there are times when I will use a little thicker "home made" mix. Try 5000, 7000, and 10000 silicone shock oil, Picco007 and I feel that they are very similar to the Losi Hydra Fluid. The Corally lubes are too thick, I haven't tried the CRC stuff yet. Let me know if you need anymore help.
Paul
I miss losi hydra fluid...
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 05:14 PM   #14199
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The Trinity Website isn't clear on the part numbers so I read the correct #'s off some header cards and edited my post below.

About Damper Grease:

You can go too heavy. I don't know any top Mod drivers that run anything a thick As Trinity Purple stuff anywhere on thier cars at 99% of the tracks.

McMahon is one of the fastest 1/12th drivers on carpet and he always runs red stuff in his damper tubes everywhere he goes.

Remember...if you car is sliding anywhere you are scrubbing speed. Get your car stuck down so it just about traction rolls then drive it smooth so it wont traction roll. Some guys think making your car free (not so stuck) makes you fast. This is not the case...you have to drive a stuck car smoothly so you don't scrub speed to be fast.
Not having done this in about 5 years, is there any feel I should want the car to have when it's in my hands?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 06:18 PM   #14200
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
I use Losi Light, Standard, and Heavy fluid in my tubes (these have been discontinued) there are times when I will use a little thicker "home made" mix. Try 5000, 7000, and 10000 silicone shock oil, Picco007 and I feel that they are very similar to the Losi Hydra Fluid. The Corally lubes are too thick, I haven't tried the CRC stuff yet. Let me know if you need anymore help.
Paul

Paul what company makes weighted shock oil in those weights? Is it OFNA or Mugen?
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 06:19 PM   #14201
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Not having done this in about 5 years, is there any feel I should want the car to have when it's in my hands?

To be honest with you Randy, I don't think I could explain what it should feel like. But I do know that when I was running my 12l4, it worked best when there was hardly anything in between the damper disc's. Now I run my rug rat with tubes and it feels the same when I run light or standard hydradrive fluid. We run on asphalt only so I'm just giving you my take on things.

A friend of mine on carpet uses heavy hydradrive fluid to start out with in carpet but ends up using 30k to 50k in his tubes (calandra tubes). Hope this helps......

I think it also depends on the types of tubes you have. Or if you have discs then they guys running either the BMI or 12l4 cars would probably be able to give you some pointers on what it should feels like.
__________________
EA Motorsports
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 06:20 PM   #14202
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Paul what company makes weighted shock oil in those weights? Is it OFNA or Mugen?

Carlos, it is ofna and mugen who make silicon diff lube in those weights.....I have enough of the ofna diff lubes to let you try this weekend.
__________________
EA Motorsports
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 06:48 PM   #14203
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

I have GS silicone lubes in those weights and more, made for 1/8th scale buggy differentials. They should be relatively easy to find. I believe OFNA makes them, too.
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 07:54 PM   #14204
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

I have tried the mugens 600 weight shock oil and the 10,000 weight diff lube. The 600 felt like I had nothing on my dampner disks, but the 10,000 felt just abit to heavy like it was honey.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2005, 07:57 PM   #14205
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
I have tried the mugens 600 weight shock oil and the 10,000 weight diff lube. The 600 felt like I had nothing on my dampner disks, but the 10,000 felt just abit to heavy like it was honey.

The mugen 600 shock oil is too light. You need silcon diff lube. They come in heavier wieghts.....3k, 5k, 7k, and 10k and so on.
__________________
EA Motorsports
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:22 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0