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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-18-2005, 11:06 AM   #14161
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Bill,

I was actually thinking about giving my old sedan a run out this weekend. My batteries suck out loud but it handled ok last weekend.

Chris
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:54 AM   #14162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
od,

Great pic...Even though I saw it in the flesh!

Any appreciable weight difference between the 4-screw rear pod and a typical 3-screw unit?

Bill
OK Bill,

IRS new pod conversion, with 4 titanium screws-20.5 grams

IRS motor plates and CRC top plate, with 3 titanium screws-19.8 grams

So less than a gram difference, I thought it would be more! One thing I noticed (and more important) is the relative height of the assemblies. The new pod conversion is about 4mm lower than the standard set-up. This is due to the bulkhead height being over a millimeter shorter, and the use of flat head screws on the new conversion. This is great for clearance on low bodies.

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 08-18-2005, 12:03 PM   #14163
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odpurple-heres a pic of mine installed. Check out the center post carefully.

I am only running the top damper plate and have lowered the post 0.090" and gone to a pan car spring. This one is purple, but I recommend using a Wolfe Orange spring. Also-you will want to raise the shock ballstud up again. I shodl have raised it 0.090". but I am experimenting with going 0.030" at a time.
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Old 08-18-2005, 12:11 PM   #14164
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I never thought of the changes that come onto play with the damper discs on the conversion. What would be nice on that is one of the old Paragon floating damper set ups!

There was a night and day difference from discs to tubes on my H12. The car works a lot better with tubes so I guess I won't need to set up the discs.
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Old 08-18-2005, 06:49 PM   #14165
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Default Itchy to race again...

I'm getting closer to getting the car done, but I couldn't resist taking some photos tonight. I'm awaiting the ESC and charger, and need to paint the body and solder up the packs and I'm ready to race.

If you see something ont he car I did wrong, holla... it's been a long time since I put one of these back together. Yeah, I even went old school with the wheel discs. Some habits are hard to break.
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Old 08-18-2005, 07:26 PM   #14166
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I run the carpet Knife and the only thing I would recomend would be is go to the kimbrough black servo saver(much stronger then the white its a med I believe) and I would ck to see if your shock should be mounted one hole forword closer to the antenna with about a 1-1 1/2mm of droop in the rear pod other then that it looks great.
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Old 08-18-2005, 07:38 PM   #14167
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Just finished getting the rig back together and thought I would also toss up a few images for you. This is the Hyperform chassis with the IRS rear pod assembly.
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:15 PM   #14168
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Looks good Nick...

You can see what I meant now by the shock/damper geometry being different. With my rear top plate, the damper tubes don't have that forward sweep. Should work well though...
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:22 PM   #14169
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Apex,

Make another couple of holes in your servo mounts and attach the servo with 4 screws, I learned that one the hard way with my t-fource.

Chris
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:24 PM   #14170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
I'm getting closer to getting the car done, but I couldn't resist taking some photos tonight. I'm awaiting the ESC and charger, and need to paint the body and solder up the packs and I'm ready to race.

If you see something ont he car I did wrong, holla... it's been a long time since I put one of these back together. Yeah, I even went old school with the wheel discs. Some habits are hard to break.
Car looks great, but you're going to need a bumper
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:45 PM   #14171
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Bumper? I don'need no stinkin' bumper!

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I will definitely mount the servo using 4 screws instead of two. I didn't know there was another small servo saver for Futaba servos. I'm going to need to seek that out.

As for the rear shock, I wasn't sure about the mounting position. The CK3.2 instruction booklet is more than a little vague. No reasoning behind much of the assembly, and certainly no explaination as to why something would need to be done one way or another. Looking at the mount, it looked as if the ball end on the shock would interfere with the antenna and cause binding. I shortened the shock length (with the ballcup length) to compensate for the shortened spring preload, so the droop currently is set at slightly below level with a straightedge.

The current shock adjusting nut was a stock CRC piece with the shock, and the replacement from Associated was identical; both fitting horribly on the threaded shock body, and neither having threads in them to begin with. The next item I buy is an aluminum nut for the shock. I can see that stock piece failing on me before too long.

Also, to anyone also using the new CRC front end, with the press-fit upper hinge pin, a set screw is not needed, but provided for with the new mounts. Does anyone use a set screw to hold everything together? I tried, but it bound up the upper pin because then the only movement was within the press-fit machined arm. Might have to ream that one out.


Other than than, as a second- or third-hand race car, I think it is coming along nicely. Can't wait to fire it up (sorry, I still have nitro tendencies).


Also, is anyone using Keyence Zero V speed controllers? I just acquired one for this car in a trade, and Keyence is fairly new to me. I'm wondering if there is anything I should know about its setup and performance.


Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2005, 09:41 PM   #14172
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Going to be running on low grip outdoor ashpalt. What are the best type of traction additives to use?
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Old 08-18-2005, 10:18 PM   #14173
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Paragon works great, just be aware of the amount of time it sits and amount put on.
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Old 08-19-2005, 12:30 AM   #14174
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Hey Carl, I'm gonna send out your car in a couple days, just waiting on a couple pieces to get here so I can finish my vegas car, need to use your tires to figure out how big to cut the wheel wells.
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Old 08-19-2005, 12:33 AM   #14175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
The current shock adjusting nut was a stock CRC piece with the shock, and the replacement from Associated was identical; both fitting horribly on the threaded shock body, and neither having threads in them to begin with. The next item I buy is an aluminum nut for the shock. I can see that stock piece failing on me before too long.
The plastic nut will not fall off, they are not threaded and very tight for a reason. You would hate to see that nut move on you during a run (not that I feel it would). I have been running the same nut since my 12LC

Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Also, to anyone also using the new CRC front end, with the press-fit upper hinge pin, a set screw is not needed, but provided for with the new mounts. Does anyone use a set screw to hold everything together? I tried, but it bound up the upper pin because then the only movement was within the press-fit machined arm. Might have to ream that one out.
The reason your front end seems a little strange is those hinge pins. You have the old style L pins in there. You want to switch those out for the AE part #4569 ($2.00). It's a straight ground titanium pin that is held in place with those two set screws. The link below has a great detail shot for you.

http://rc10.com/enlarge/rc12l4_hinge_pins.htm

If you take a look at my car above you will see I am running the machined arms from CRC along with the machined aluminum blocks and those AE pins. This is by far the best front end I have ever run. The arms should be the wear part, not your aluminum blocks.

Let me know how it comes out for you,
Nick
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