R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-13-2005, 09:40 PM   #14116
Tech Elite
 
edseb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, California
Posts: 2,422
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
Jaco and CRC fronts require flangeless bearings, TRC and Parma fronts use Flanged bearings.
I ran the TRCs on my L4 and did not like them. Rears required longer screws to mount and inner part rubbed my back pod so it needed shimming out. Fronts need flange on outside, so I had to compensate since I use a flange with the inner part on Jacos. They drove the same, just something to compound wise, just keep these factors in mind.
__________________
RC Car Action Editor and Photographer
Carl Hyndman
edseb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2005, 09:42 PM   #14117
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
I have a question for all 12th scale drivers. I would like to know if a graphite chassis would become tweaked if left in extreme heat like in the back seat of my truck?
Also I have been using the DSM system in my 12th scale down here in the humid and hot temps with no problems.

Carlos
Its possible. The best way to check is to remove everything from it. Tear it down to a bare lower chassis plate and put it on a known flat tweak board.

Test 1: Tap each corner of the chassis with your finger tip. If you hear a clicking sound on any corner its toast. That sound is the curled up corner bending down and hitting the surface of the tweak board.

Test 2: Give the chassis a gentle longitudinal twist and repeat test one. If it was flat before and now its twisted it is toast. A chassis in good condition should always return to a dead flat state after a gentle twist. If it does not the graphite is fatigued from age, crashes, etc.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 03:11 AM   #14118
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
I have a question for all 12th scale drivers. I would like to know if a grahite chasis would become tweaked if left in extreme heat like in the back seat of my truck?
Also I have been using the DSM system in my 12th scale down here in the humid and hot temps with no problems.

Carlos
Carlos, I don't think the heat would tweak the chassis but it could definetly weaken the chassis' epoxy/laminations. Like Adrian said if it is tweaked it's probably from crashes. If it's the same Hara chassis that you have been running since the TX State champs, it's probably due for a replacement (I know you have one).

On a side note: Get all your stuff out of your truck and bring it inside after each weekend. Heat is a killer on batteries, motors, and can dry your tires out fast. I hope you weren't leaving that stuff in your truck.

How was racing this past weekend? I should be home on Sept 10/11, just in time for the series race on the 17th...I can't let Picco007 beat me because I was gone for 2 months

Paul
__________________
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 01:39 PM   #14119
Tech Adept
 
basementLOSI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Niagara Falls area
Posts: 117
Send a message via AIM to basementLOSI
Default

A new track is opening this fall in my area. In the past, I have seen 1/12 scale. It HAS to be the most beautiful thing ever. The cars just sweep in and out. Thus, I think I'm going to make the move.

I've looked moderately at cars, but I think have settled on a AE RC12L4. My LHS has a huge selection of AE parts. Secondly, I want to get my first kit (this will be my second car [first was a XXX-T which I race weekly]). I have done some research in general 1/12 facts, and I've come up withs some pointers.

Some of my major questions are below. Feel free to add any information you feel suitable!
  • Do you need to true you tires?
  • Is it realistic to advance into another car with my JR XR2i that came with my RTR Losi truck?
  • What additional tools are needed for on-road that off-roaders would not have?
basementLOSI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 02:06 PM   #14120
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default Hyperform 12

I have updated the website with new pictures of the Hyperform 12 chassis. Here are a few of them...
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-hp12-assembled.jpg   1/12 forum-hp12-conversion-kit-components.jpg   1/12 forum-hp12-t-bar-routing.jpg  
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 02:16 PM   #14121
Tech Adept
 
Nick-C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 181
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by basementLOSI
Some of my major questions are below. Feel free to add any information you feel suitable!
  • Do you need to true you tires?
  • Is it realistic to advance into another car with my JR XR2i that came with my RTR Losi truck?
  • What additional tools are needed for on-road that off-roaders would not have?
You will need to cut your tires, check with your local track before you rush out and buy a truer. Many tracks keep a machine on-site for racers to use and I am sure they would be happy to show you how things work. If there are going to be more 12th scale guys you can bet money someone will have a truer and would be more than happy to help you out.

The only thing I see wrong with your JR radio is that it's AM. I would consider making the investment in a quality FM radio. Today there are some reasonable prices on some very good radios that will last you years and provide clean glitch-free performance for you. Maybe surfing around for a used radio is the best bet. Pay attention to your servo choice and make sure you have something that's quick and has enough power to center quickly, search this thread for some suggestions.

One thing you will find is that 12th scale isn't rocket science. A nice flat setup board is helpful but beyond that your basic wrenches and nut-drivers should do it. 12th scale is more about having a straight and even car and DRIVING than it is about spending hours setting things up.

Hope you have some fun with it!

Nick
Nick-C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 05:57 PM   #14122
Tech Adept
 
Sokool's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 109
Send a message via AIM to Sokool Send a message via Yahoo to Sokool
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
I have been running 34/96 with a Reedy QM19 and 1.85 tires. What would be a good ratio to start with when running a Trinity C2?
No one really answered you but I generaly run mine at about 1.73-1.78 roll out. That is anywhere from 26-31 on the pinion depending on tire size with a 96 spur, I love to get my moneys worth out of my tires I run them from 2.00 all the way to skins. Start with a 29 pinion with 1.85 tires.

BTW, I was the all red car that placed second just behind you in 1/12 today.
Sokool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 09:58 PM   #14123
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
Carlos, I don't think the heat would tweak the chassis but it could definetly weaken the chassis' epoxy/laminations. Like Adrian said if it is tweaked it's probably from crashes. If it's the same Hara chassis that you have been running since the TX State champs, it's probably due for a replacement (I know you have one).

On a side note: Get all your stuff out of your truck and bring it inside after each weekend. Heat is a killer on batteries, motors, and can dry your tires out fast. I hope you weren't leaving that stuff in your truck.

How was racing this past weekend? I should be home on Sept 10/11, just in time for the series race on the 17th...I can't let Picco007 beat me because I was gone for 2 months

Paul

Bring it.........
__________________
EA Motorsports
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 10:42 PM   #14124
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

Paul, I have been bringing in the batteries so the heat won't destroy them. The car gets covered up by a towel during the week in the truck so I can practice after work. I am now thinking about switching to a 12l4 or rebuild the 12l3 I got from a guy in Houston back in April. I just noticed the chasis tweaked friday when I tried to set the ride height for saturday. So I switched it with another on and it did the same. So I am just going to roll with it and I'm going to compensatefor it som how.

Oh, Lu has gone to brushless.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 10:48 PM   #14125
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

Carlos, if you run one of those cross braces on the front end, manufacturing tolerances can cause them to bow the chassis. You can check this with a straight edge. Same thing with the rear cross brace although that is much less common. Couldn't hurt to check...
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 11:02 PM   #14126
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

I just replaced the front caster blocks to the 10deg. and put the 12l4 cross brace. I was using the original 12lc caster blocks with the tube brace.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 11:33 PM   #14127
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

I don't remember if it was a problem with the tube cross brace. I know my 12l4 style cross brace bowed my chassis and I had to ditch it...
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2005, 08:03 PM   #14128
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

Yo, i dont know if anyone has asked this before, but has anyone experimented with the height of their roll over antenna's? I see quite a few people with them cut down considerably. Does anyone have a sugjested length? Does cutting it down remove the effectiveness/purpos of the rollover antenna?
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2005, 12:23 AM   #14129
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default


Last edited by P2; 08-16-2005 at 12:48 AM. Reason: Duplicate post....my bad!
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2005, 12:25 AM   #14130
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Paul, I have been bringing in the batteries so the heat won't destroy them. The car gets covered up by a towel during the week in the truck so I can practice after work. I am now thinking about switching to a 12l4 or rebuild the 12l3 I got from a guy in Houston back in April. I just noticed the chasis tweaked friday when I tried to set the ride height for saturday. So I switched it with another on and it did the same. So I am just going to roll with it and I'm going to compensatefor it som how.

Oh, Lu has gone to brushless.
Carlos, I would go with the T-Force because it has everything you need right out of the box or you can get the Rugrat conversion...Picco007 and I will be able to get you dialed in fast! The L4 is a good car but when I built Ram's car the fit wasn't the greatest. Plus I prefer side tube for dampening...the L4 is the current world champ though

What kind of brushless? Did he go back to LiPo cells too? I just want him to be out there runing 1/12 with us again.
P2
__________________
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:25 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0