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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-10-2005, 10:19 PM   #14086
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hey guys i want to get into 12th scale....what are some good reliable kits
and also what would you need to get you started if you dont have any electric stuff only nitro.....

thanks

Mike
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Old 08-10-2005, 11:04 PM   #14087
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Well to get started in electrics you'll need a battery charger. I have the ICE charger and it works pretty good. If you're just starting I highly recommend it. Of course you'll also need batteries. Matched packs with long run times are prefable. You'll also need a motor, an electronic speed controller, and a mini servo. As for the cars, I'll leave that to the experts.
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:05 AM   #14088
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Of gluing the sidewalls with CA. What kind of CA are you using...thick or thin? Are you gluing both the outside and inside....or just the out. Thanks
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:38 AM   #14089
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[QUOTEI have been running my t-fource for the last few weeks, I am having some pretty good success, I'm running the thin ae t-bar on asphalt with dbl pinks up front and greens on tha back.

Chris.[/QUOTE]

If you are running the thin (.063) on asphalt, do you run the thick (.075) on carpet with the T-Fource? Or do you run the stock graphite version from CRC?

I just picked up a T-Fource yesterday and am getting it built/prepared for carpet. I have run link cars in the past and am curious what any of you are running for t-plates on carpet.

Thanks,
JB
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Old 08-11-2005, 06:03 AM   #14090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by out_to_lunch
If you are running the thin (.063) on asphalt, do you run the thick (.075) on carpet with the T-Fource? Or do you run the stock graphite version from CRC?

I just picked up a T-Fource yesterday and am getting it built/prepared for carpet. I have run link cars in the past and am curious what any of you are running for t-plates on carpet.

Thanks,
JB
JB - You will run the thick t-bar on carpet (usually). There are other instances that you would run a thin t-bar on carpet, eg. if the traction is really low. At this years Snowbird Nat's since the traction was so high, some guys were running .080 t-bars. Check out the setups from CRC's web page you should be able to get a baseline there.
Good luck,
Paul
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Old 08-11-2005, 06:39 AM   #14091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
JB - You will run the thick t-bar on carpet (usually). There are other instances that you would run a thin t-bar on carpet, eg. if the traction is really low. At this years Snowbird Nat's since the traction was so high, some guys were running .080 t-bars. Check out the setups from CRC's web page you should be able to get a baseline there.
Good luck,
Paul
Paul-

I was surprised that Smyka had run a .063 t-bar at Cleveland last year. I was pretty much of the mindset that you outlined; thicker t-bar's on carpet.

Thanks for your input.

I will start with a .075 and see how it goes. The main track I will be running on usually starts with low traction early in the night and gains quite a bit by the mains; not a ton, but a lot more than when we start the night of racing.

Thanks,
JB
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Old 08-11-2005, 06:56 AM   #14092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowrance
Of gluing the sidewalls with CA. What kind of CA are you using...thick or thin? Are you gluing both the outside and inside....or just the out. Thanks
I've used both with good results. You only do the outer edge, just a small bead on the rear tires to keep the foam from coming off the rims (some don't glue the rears at all). The front can be from the whole sidewall to just a thin bead....it all depends on how much side-bite you want to take away.
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Old 08-11-2005, 06:58 AM   #14093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
also what would you need to get you started if you dont have any electric stuff only nitro.

Mike, I am in the same boat as you. Having sold all of my electric stuff years ago, and racing nitro cars since, I am having to buy a lot. IT is proving my theory that gas cars are MUCH cheaper to race than electrics.

I bought a CRC Carpet Knife 3.2 which is a great car. Three GP 3700 four cell battery packs to start out with, a new Reedy 19T quad spec motor, a mini high speed digital steering servo, a small speed controller, a few different high downforce bodies, enough tires to run more than a couple of races, and then a new personal transponder for this car.

Then, the stuff off the car. You'll need a charger, as said before. Too many options here, but anything good requires some sort of power supply. Tire truers, motor lathes, power supplies, chargers, dischargers... blech. Can I just put a .09 nitro motor in this thing and be done with it?


I have already spent more on my gas cars that I have been racing for the last year, and I don't even have a way to get this car powered up yet. It's a big chunk, so be prepared if you want to do it right.


Good luck,

doug
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:24 AM   #14094
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thanks Doug for the info....i'm not sure what im going to do yet...i dont no if it will be worth the money...cuz i may onbly get out a couple times a month if im lucky mayb 1ce......so i might just get a savage or a basher to screw around with.....atleast in th ewinter i could take it off sum snow jumps so i dont no what im going to do yet....savage or 12th scale.....12th scale is so darn expensive though so im really not sure

thanks for all your help

Mike
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:28 AM   #14095
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Expensive, yes, when you buy new... but I have built my race setup from eBay and the rctech.net Classifieds. You can do it really cost-effectively if you plan and don't hesitate when you find a good deal.


Good luck,


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Old 08-11-2005, 10:31 AM   #14096
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thats a problem i know there are some good and honest people out there but then again their are some theives and i have read about many on this site...and you can get screwed over majorly on these sites....plus im not really into buying used....you never really know what the car has been through

Mike
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Old 08-11-2005, 11:10 PM   #14097
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factory racer
i had some spare time, so here it goes

first off, what's scaring you the most i beleive that you now think everything has to be top dollar to start out or be competitive, but on the other hand you don't want to go too cheap.

since most/all 1/12th classes are run predominantly with 4 cells there is more room for radio gear. i presume you have some fast servos (although large) on your gas cars, a decent receiver and radio? we have had a few of our 12th racers start out with big servos and receivers and only upgrade when they had the money or really felt like they needed to do so. one of our drivers commented once that he felt his car was easier for him to drive when it was heavier.

*ECS, so all you need to really start is a ESC/speed control. if your local club runs stock or 19T you won't need a $169 ESC

*CARS, new...here are two cars i have found for the money, no one comes close. plus both of these have adjustable servo mount or you can just double stick your servo to the chassis as you see in some pics posted withinn the last three pages
CRC's 1/12th t-bar car - The T-Fource 1/12th Car Kit. #1310 $149.99
The T-Fource comes complete with full bearings, green compound kit tires, large "D" ring diff, new style 0,5 and 10 degree front arm mounts and CRC's new threaded steel front axles.
Carpet Knife #1301 $149.99 Version 3.1 Car Kit. Dual aluminum damper tubes, CRC's rear side tweak springs, graphite chassis
and components, graphite axle, universal servo mounts.

*BATTERIES, looking around today for batteries today i found:

- HyperForm has some great prices on 3-packs of 4-cell GP3700 for $69.99 plus shipping ($23.33 each prior to shipping)
today was the first day i ever ordered from them

- you will probably want to start out in stock or 19T, in that case check around, you may find someone blowing out GP3300's for less than that which will have plenty of run time for those motors.

*CHARGERS, i see alot of people at our track doing just fine in all classes with Peak detectors that have built in power supplies that cost between $45 to $75 complete.

*TIRES, most basic kits come with green fronts and rears. the green rears will work to start out on carpet or asphalt. but you will need more than likely a set of purple fronts/pink rears for asphalt or purple fronts/grey rears for carpet to start out with. i have found KTHobbies.com or SpeedtechRC.com to have the best prices at $13.99 for front or rear Jacos or Parmas. $14.99/15.99 for TRCs.

*TRUERS are nice but not mandatory for starting out. at our track only one of us has a 12th arbored truer and with all three of our TC classes only 3-4 of them have truers, yet everyone helps everyone out ....minus the chunks we all have trued tires...even though only one driver at times brings their truer

with what you have and what you need....your looking at around a $290-350 commitment
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Old 08-11-2005, 11:38 PM   #14098
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apex speed

theory on nitro cheaper than electric................

the rule for some time has been for a electric car the initial cost is higher, but lower in the long run. nitro cars the initial cost is lower but higher in the long run.

i have run both, from experience it has always been true

some of the gas cars i have seen lately have the same or more electric items on them.

i will use a gas truck i recently saw

M-8 radio
hi-speed/hi-torque coreless MG servo for steering
hi-speed/hi-torque coreless MG servo for Throttle
micro receiver
5 cell GP1100 rec-pack
Onboard Temp sensor
Fail Safe Unit
Onboard Electric Starter Motor
Personnal AMB Xponder

and to be fair a electric maxed mod TC i saw.

M-8 radio
hi-speed/hi-torque coreless MG servo for steering
Novak GTX ESC
micro receiver
6 cell GP3700 pack (has a total of three packs)
2 cooling fans on motor
Personnal AMB Xponder

wow about the same
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Old 08-11-2005, 11:50 PM   #14099
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Anyone know if I'll have any problem running Jaco tires on my Reflex 12?
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Old 08-12-2005, 09:18 AM   #14100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
factory racer
i had some spare time, so here it goes

first off, what's scaring you the most i beleive that you now think everything has to be top dollar to start out or be competitive, but on the other hand you don't want to go too cheap.

since most/all 1/12th classes are run predominantly with 4 cells there is more room for radio gear. i presume you have some fast servos (although large) on your gas cars, a decent receiver and radio? we have had a few of our 12th racers start out with big servos and receivers and only upgrade when they had the money or really felt like they needed to do so. one of our drivers commented once that he felt his car was easier for him to drive when it was heavier.

*ECS, so all you need to really start is a ESC/speed control. if your local club runs stock or 19T you won't need a $169 ESC

*CARS, new...here are two cars i have found for the money, no one comes close. plus both of these have adjustable servo mount or you can just double stick your servo to the chassis as you see in some pics posted withinn the last three pages
CRC's 1/12th t-bar car - The T-Fource 1/12th Car Kit. #1310 $149.99
The T-Fource comes complete with full bearings, green compound kit tires, large "D" ring diff, new style 0,5 and 10 degree front arm mounts and CRC's new threaded steel front axles.
Carpet Knife #1301 $149.99 Version 3.1 Car Kit. Dual aluminum damper tubes, CRC's rear side tweak springs, graphite chassis
and components, graphite axle, universal servo mounts.

*BATTERIES, looking around today for batteries today i found:

- HyperForm has some great prices on 3-packs of 4-cell GP3700 for $69.99 plus shipping ($23.33 each prior to shipping)
today was the first day i ever ordered from them

- you will probably want to start out in stock or 19T, in that case check around, you may find someone blowing out GP3300's for less than that which will have plenty of run time for those motors.

*CHARGERS, i see alot of people at our track doing just fine in all classes with Peak detectors that have built in power supplies that cost between $45 to $75 complete.

*TIRES, most basic kits come with green fronts and rears. the green rears will work to start out on carpet or asphalt. but you will need more than likely a set of purple fronts/pink rears for asphalt or purple fronts/grey rears for carpet to start out with. i have found KTHobbies.com or SpeedtechRC.com to have the best prices at $13.99 for front or rear Jacos or Parmas. $14.99/15.99 for TRCs.

*TRUERS are nice but not mandatory for starting out. at our track only one of us has a 12th arbored truer and with all three of our TC classes only 3-4 of them have truers, yet everyone helps everyone out ....minus the chunks we all have trued tires...even though only one driver at times brings their truer

with what you have and what you need....your looking at around a $290-350 commitment
thanks for the info man...i really appreciate it

Mike
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