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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 09-02-2002, 05:16 PM   #1396
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I see in the earlyer posts people was saying to use a receiver pack with a 947 servo.?!
did Masami use one??
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Old 09-02-2002, 05:53 PM   #1397
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Steve, I will be using the same setup this season. I plan to run stock mostly. But if you are using mod and need to run the pack, please post it.

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Old 09-02-2002, 06:12 PM   #1398
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Yes unfortanatly i race modified between 12-9doubles etc
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Old 09-02-2002, 08:06 PM   #1399
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What would you guys recommend for gearing on a 6cell Stock motor Asphalt track? I'm just looking for a good starting point. The straightaway is 213'. I have a RC12L3. I don't have the manual but I'm assuming it's 4.0:1. So right now I'm using 100/25 gearing. Any suggestions? New tires, not shaved down. Thanks..

ps. it's road course.. hehe
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Old 09-03-2002, 04:11 PM   #1400
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Talking Ride height question-12L3

When you set up a 1/12 car, where are you checking the ride height? I have checked it on the chassis at the body posts (not the screws) and at the trailing edge of the motor pod.

Question 1: Is this the correct locations?

Question 2: Do I also need to check it at other locations such as the trailing edge of the chassis and the leading edge of the motor pod?

Question 3: Should all points be the same? IE: as the tires wear (fronts more than rears) do I need to adjust for this? When I check the car for tweak, how does this affect the middle of the car for ride height?

Question 4: Is the goal a perfectly straight chassis/pod when the car is ready to run or should there be some droop or arch between the chassis and pod?

Sorry for all the questions guys.......more I mess with these "Simple Cars" the more questions I seem to come up with........
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Old 09-03-2002, 06:21 PM   #1401
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,i race mod but i think std need around 50m/rev dont know what that is in ratio.but if your tyres are 52mm 100/30 is 49.07m/rev,the manual says 26/75 (48dp)-but the manual may be alittle old and be based on older type batteries etc,what i have heard in the past,i think you use your smallest spur with you biggest pinion,25/100 with 52mm tyres is 40.84m/rev,i think that the gearing may have been delt with in some earlyer posts.
I just check the front, middle where the batteries are and the rear of the motor pod,i like it 3.5mm-4mm,max ,front and back so that the car is level,but some people like the front to be a little lower.The tyres can become diffrent heights through constant use and will effect the tweak,& depending how you like your car height you may need to put spacers under the front or higher/lower the rear has your tyres become smaller,(my car seems to use the rears up before the fronts)but im using Corally tyres-gold rear/silver fronts.I think this is right,if not some one correct me.also it helps if you swop your tyres around between each round-the outer tyre ,will become smaller quicker
don't quote me on this/ darnold will be able to help you better than i can!etc

Last edited by Stevie; 09-03-2002 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 09-03-2002, 07:10 PM   #1402
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Hmmmm, I'll have to download that old RC12L manual from AE site again. I know the 12L3 manual was incomplete when I downloaded it. I guess I'll stick with 100/28 for now. I was able to pull thru the turns and eat up the other guy running the 75/26 gearing. Even though he was faster down the straight, he was no match to me in the infield.... Guess I need to carry a caliber and calculator with me now!
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Old 09-04-2002, 10:48 PM   #1403
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something from yokomo,

Jake's Performance Hobbies http://www.jphracing.com/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/757500284356171 Facebook Group for Pro 10
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Old 09-05-2002, 02:01 PM   #1404
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a few q's that need a's:

are the yokomo 12's coming to the US or is it very limited.

what kind of body is it that Masami is using?

Where can I get some of those yokomo foams (mounted)

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Old 09-05-2002, 03:04 PM   #1405
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I may be getting a second hand Corally 1/12th car next week. Is there anything i should know about the car (I don't know the model but it's a couple of years old) and do you have and set-up tips, I'll race in 6 cell stock on a very tight carpet track. The car comes with a mini servo and a P2K motor with spare tires and parts for $70.
I already have a Quantum Competition from other cars.
Are Corally's strong? It will be my first 12th scale but I already race mod touring and Pro-10 so my driving isn't too bad
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Old 09-05-2002, 03:39 PM   #1406
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Hi there..yes i would say its a strong car,but i think most 1/12ths are strong,touch wood,ive not broken any thing for ages,i think the last thing i broke may had been the t,bar/wish bones about a year ago,or so,& ive been racing against the "bully's" t/c.I have got through some spur gears (64dp) and after a bit the tyres become soft and chunk,you just have to try and clean them after every meeting or race. also having a few sets of tres helps, so you just use your tyres ones/twice a day at the most,try getting 3 sets of rears,2sets of fronts etc,also what Corally are you getting Sp12m or sp12g3 ? & what surface will you be running it on.?.
Laterz stevie
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Old 09-05-2002, 06:42 PM   #1407
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Hey "Tigger" hows the shoulder feeling these days we have not had any updates in a while . You should bring your wedge and a couple of balls to the Hobby Show and challange Paul to a rematch. I hear that you and your brother James are going along with the wild "Mustang" driver to the show on sunday. I will see you there, Jugghead and Me are going and we will meet Rob there. We will be on the look out for ya and be sure to avoid you at all cost Anyway see ya sunday.

Ohhhh I almost forgot to ask hows the 12th scale practice going if you are getting any in?
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MOTIV RC presents the Midwest All-Star Carpet Series....15th year running 2017/18!!!
USVTA National Championship....check it out!!!
Im only responsible for what I say NOT what you understand.

Last edited by Kevin K; 09-05-2002 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 09-05-2002, 09:01 PM   #1408
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Talking Found the problem!!!!!!

I posted a couple of pages ago about a traction roll problem that reared it's ugly head recently with my usually dialed 1/12 scale.

Here was the problem: Turned out to be a ride height issue....seems that as the front tires became worn at a faster rate than the rears, it changed the angle of the car.

Can't remember who it was but the person who said to check the "Rake", the difference between the front and rear, got it right on the head.

I borrowed a different gauge than I had been using and found that the car was "snout-down"!!!!!!

I just ran no less than ten packs through the car and spun it once (a laps in concentration on my part) BUT NOT ONE TRACTION ROLL!!!!!!!!!

Thanks to all who responded!!!!! I learned alot from you all! And a special thanks to the "Rake Guy"!!!!!!!!

Last edited by Graphitedust; 09-05-2002 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 09-06-2002, 07:13 AM   #1409
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still waiting for the car, tires, servo to show up.....waiting sucks. I WANT IT NOW WHAAAAAAA!!!!!!!
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Old 09-06-2002, 06:38 PM   #1410
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Kev- just got in from the office and boy am I tired, no golf. should see you at the show on sunday.
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