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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-05-2005, 11:08 PM   #14026
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OK. I'm game. Just as long as there are no r/c corpses in the catacombs...

How about Tuesday night before I head off to RC Tech.

Please PM your address.

Thanks.

Bill
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:12 PM   #14027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLS
Would there happen to be a mythical TQ Eagle specimen hidden in the catacombs?
I best bring my camera...
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:16 PM   #14028
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Bill.

Watch out for the dead chickens on the stairway.
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:37 PM   #14029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
Bill.

Watch out for the dead chickens on the stairway.
Voodoo chickens?
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:59 PM   #14030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLS
Would there happen to be a mythical TQ Eagle specimen hidden in the catacombs?
that's classified!
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Old 08-06-2005, 12:48 AM   #14031
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Wow,

All of this smack talk is very impressive, I assume you will all be out at Ripon tomorrow to back it up?

I await your deafening silence with interest.

Chris

Last edited by crimson eagle; 08-06-2005 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 08-06-2005, 07:53 AM   #14032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Wow,

All of this smack talk is very impreesive, I assume you will all be out at Ripon tomorrow to back it up?

I await your deafening silence with interest.

Chris
Understand that two of the three are going to ROCKS(?) and Jim is in Bermuda.

The unreal heat is likely going to make me'ins "chicken out". Will be watchin' da weather reports.
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Old 08-06-2005, 08:42 AM   #14033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Understand that two of the three are going to ROCKS(?) and Jim is in Bermuda.

The unreal heat is likely going to make me'ins "chicken out". Will be watchin' da weather reports.
OD and I will not be at Ripon. OD has a honey do list today and it's just too damn hot for me. Jim is working in Bermuda. Tough gig!

We are going to the Ground Pounders in Santa Rosa Sunday. 1/12th will be the featured race and they are awarding trophies, 1st throught 3rd. With Jim being out of town, the 1/12th class will be wide open. Anyone could win!!
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Old 08-06-2005, 10:38 AM   #14034
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Crashby, Bill,

Will be extremely difficult for me to do 2 days this weekend, if I'm there great, if not good luck. If it turns out I can go, I'll give you or OD a call for info.

Chris
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Old 08-06-2005, 11:02 AM   #14035
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Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Crashby, Bill,

Will be extremely difficult for me to do 2 days this weekend, if I'm there great, if not good luck. If it turns out I can go, I'll give you or OD a call for info.

Chris
Hmmmm....I don't see anything in the Ground Pounders info indicating when the racing starts on Sunday at Peterson Tractor.

Bill
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Old 08-06-2005, 11:22 AM   #14036
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Bill,
I should know by monday on the car.
You want the chassis plate, cross support and upper and lower pod plates right?
Make an offer, I really don't know what just those parts are worth I got it in a trade with a bunch of stuff.
Dayton
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Old 08-06-2005, 11:33 AM   #14037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Hmmmm....I don't see anything in the Ground Pounders info indicating when the racing starts on Sunday at Peterson Tractor.

Bill
OD and I usually get there around 8:30 AM. They have controled practice by groups, usually about 10 minutes per session.
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:53 PM   #14038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Fast Ho-

Actually, I do have a Q12 in the "fleet" ! But not the tape version.
I didn't even know Doug ever cut any fiberglass editions of the chassis, which is interesting since I did run my car on asphalt and liked it a lot. I have since converted mine to full carpet with the thick chassis but now I'm thinking of building another one in fg.

btw I call it the "Museum"
looks like your museum cars are ready to race at anytime needed

The FG version was a special request, Doug had to get some FG to cut 3 kits for me. using a FG chassis on asphalt is a old school lo-tech technology. years ago at a 1/12th race 90% plus of the sponsored AE and Delta drivers appeared at our track with FG bottomed cars. us locals were amazed and they handled great (of course the pros were driving them). i had unused red HotTrick Kevlar (very flexible) main chassis that i put onto my Delta car and barely missed the A-main, ended up 1st qual in the b-main amongst a lot of sponsored drivers. finished last due to not having the best 1200's of that time.

so i wanted to try it again since flex is back in vogue again for asphalt (see some of the TC forums). Yok, CEFX, CRC, Hara all have thin version of their G chassis. from what i've seen of 3 YRX-12 chassis after major/minor wrecks they break or delam excessivley.

Doug is the only one i have found that will do custom chassis/alterations and since he has existing CAD designs it's just a matter of emailing him with what you would like and work it from there.
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Old 08-07-2005, 10:44 PM   #14039
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Years ago my teammate and I were sponsored by a local company that produced a car called the RaceCo Hybrid, and we had a blue fiberglass version that worked well. After I saw your car I remembered the old fiberglass chassis theory but with all the problems associated with that material, I think thin graphite is probably a better approach. The thin chassis for the CEFX car is the most flexible one I've seen so far, I'll find out when I build that car.

There are three of us running Yokomo or Yokomo hybrid cars here, and they work great. The chassis doesn't seem to be any less resilient that some of my other cars, but then I did have a lot of CA on my old one by the time I replaced it this year.

Doug Powell is a great resource, is a great guy to deal with, and has a super car!
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Old 08-08-2005, 06:40 AM   #14040
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Steering Turnbuckle Help.

Hi all, Just one more little question regards to the RC12L4.

I mount the servo as stated in the instruction manual at the tilted position. Everytime the steering servo goes to its full steering throw, one of the steering turn buckle will get tucked underneath the upper arm. (eg, full right throw, the left steering buckle tucks under the left upper arm or vice versa.)

Its okay when the car is standing still on the setup board, nothing is really hitting or binding, but im worried about when the car is cornering at full speed, if the springs are compressed, then the steering turnbuckle will definitely bind with the upper arm.

Any solutions to help with this problem? I have mounted the servo as back as possible.

Thanks for all those who helped with my axle not turning smoothly problem, it turned out to be worn bearings... never realised until put in brand new bearings and got shocked at how smooth the new bearings actually are...
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