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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-05-2005, 03:52 PM   #14011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
How do you use that reamer... in a drill or by hand?

Thanks,
jag
I use it by hand. Turning any faster could distort the adjust due to heat generated by friction.

It works great!!
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Old 08-05-2005, 03:56 PM   #14012
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As far as real cars go, they also use caster to adjust steering wheel feel and feedback. So not everything transfers over...
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:31 PM   #14013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
I started racing 12h scale cars in the late 80s, but I have NEVER raced mod motors. I want to run 4-cell mod this winter, but I am not sure how to choose motors.

What do you want for 4-cell 12th in turns/winds? What are the batteries of choice for mod?
Depends on what kind of track you're running, but A 10 turns motor is most of the times a good choice.
As for the batteries, go for some 3700/3800's, you'll need all the juice you can have to last the 8 minutes in modified.
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:35 PM   #14014
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Thanks for that input. Would you say singles or doubles are the norm in 12th?
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:54 PM   #14015
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Most of the time singles are a bit more aggressive than doubles, but also less efficient. So I would suggest you go for a double.
That's a rule I've learned, but it can be different from company to company.
It also depends on how thick the wire is, what kind of wire is used (flat/round), how the wires are wrapped around the armature, how the armature is balanced, etc... Those things are factory secrets most of the time, so you don't really know what it does to a motor, unless you've got a dyno.
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Old 08-05-2005, 05:07 PM   #14016
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Bill,
I have a friend debating getting into 12th scale, if he decides against it I have everything you need to convert your L4 to the Yok car.
I'll know the next couple days, if he doesn't want it I'll make you a real good deal on what you would need.
Dayton
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Old 08-05-2005, 07:10 PM   #14017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
Bill,
I have a friend debating getting into 12th scale, if he decides against it I have everything you need to convert your L4 to the Yok car.
I'll know the next couple days, if he doesn't want it I'll make you a real good deal on what you would need.
Dayton
Dayton,

Sounds good. I was basically thinking of the 4 basic cf parts as being the ticket.
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Old 08-05-2005, 07:15 PM   #14018
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do some one have a 12th scale car for sale
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Old 08-05-2005, 07:16 PM   #14019
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after watching ODPurple post all those wireless look / killer 1/12th cars, i'm finally able to post mine which i beleive amazingly he may not own in that huge fleet maybe some day i'll take the time to clean up my wiring like he does.

DP Q-12 tape version

DP Q-12 FG tape version (for asphalt)
this chassis has about the same flex as a yokomo graphite chassis, the cross brace has additional holes to move the rear body post back for for rear traction

since there is all the talk about caster and suspension blocks again.

the graphite car has 5deg blocks with a one shim at each end. this has been working great at our indoor carpet track in Tucson. 10deg are to much for me, 0deg block seem to push too much

the FG car has 0deg blocks with two shims at the rear. also it is hard to tell from the photo, but there is also a second set of cutdown suspension block inside the reds ones you see. this makes the upper arms longer. this front end set-up has been perfect and smooth on lo-trac (only blown off) asphalt, keeps the car from being twitchy, over biting in the front end, and the rear end from coming around. 5 & 10deg blocks...maybe the 5deg on a prepped trach like SRS up in Phoenix area.

motors, i like the doubles, triples are hard to find. 10X2 and 11X2 orion core touring
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Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 08-05-2005 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 08-05-2005, 07:35 PM   #14020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
I started racing 12h scale cars in the late 80s, but I have NEVER raced mod motors. I want to run 4-cell mod this winter, but I am not sure how to choose motors.

What do you want for 4-cell 12th in turns/winds? What are the batteries of choice for mod?



Thanks,


doug
Mod motors. YOu can go with about anythng-really if speed is your #1 goal. But I have found that a litttle higher wind is still super fast and makes making time a lot easier. It doesnt make sens-but my favorite 12th mod motor right now is a Reedy 11x2 PT with Quasar brushes. Its stupid fast and efficient. I gear t so its fast enough that I never hit full throtte the full race. Not even on the straight till the last minute. I like the dbl wind and triple winds too. So say like a 9x3 or 10x2. Or my weird 11x2pt.
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Old 08-05-2005, 10:01 PM   #14021
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Fast Ho-

Actually, I do have a Q12 in the "fleet" ! But not the tape version.
I didn't even know Doug ever cut any fiberglass editions of the chassis, which is interesting since I did run my car on asphalt and liked it a lot. I have since converted mine to full carpet with the thick chassis but now I'm thinking of building another one in fg.

btw I call it the "Museum"

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 08-05-2005, 10:10 PM   #14022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidl
Thanks for the link to that device. However, the weight (.53oz) offsets the reason to use the lipoly in the first place. My lipoly 2 cell pack with connenctor and switch was .3oz. A good 5 cell 150mah nmh pack with switch and connector is .7 oz. and doesn't need voltage control.
I wonder who got you to start running those in 12th scale?
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Old 08-05-2005, 10:13 PM   #14023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Fast Ho-

Actually, I do have a Q12 in the "fleet" ! But not the tape version.
I didn't even know Doug ever cut any fiberglass editions of the chassis, which is interesting since I did run my car on asphalt and liked it a lot. I have since converted mine to full carpet with the thick chassis but now I'm thinking of building another one in fg.

btw I call it the "Museum"
od,

I gotta see your collection some time.

Bill
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Old 08-05-2005, 10:51 PM   #14024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
od,

I gotta see your collection some time.

Bill
Visits to the Museum are available. The curator is present weekdays or weekends by appointment. Most of the collection is on display in the first two floors, while the vintage pieces are housed in the catacombs below the main building.
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:07 PM   #14025
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Quote:
vintage pieces are housed in the catacombs below the main building.
Would there happen to be a mythical TQ Eagle specimen hidden in the catacombs?
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