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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-03-2005, 09:17 PM   #13981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DORIFT
Hi all, I have got an issue with my RC12L4.

I was rebuilding the car recently, trying to make everything as smooth as possible to increase the efficiency thus increase the run time.

I am a bit puzzled with the rear axle of the RC12L4. It just doesn't seem to rotate freely.. felt gritty. I have cleaned up the 2 axle flanged bearings very well and they are in very good condition, and i haven't really assemble anything else on the axle, the axle just doesn't spin very freely when put through the 2 height adjusters.

Any clues what might caused this? Uneven bulkhead heights? uneven bearing holder heights? or maybe a bent axle?

Thanks for looking, all help appreciated.
Kevin K is correct!

The rear axle is binding because of the ride height adjusters. I use a straight flute 3/8th hand reamer that is long enough to go through both ride height adjusters at the same time. Make sure that both of the ride height adjusters are completely seated in the motor pod plates and then run the reamer through both adjusters at the same time. Spin that reamer until it spins with ease. When you put the bearings back in the car, your axle will spin freely. Put in some ceramic bearings and your axle will spin so free, you can balance your axle!!

Here is the reamer I bought.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ page 2329 item number 3025A19
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:19 PM   #13982
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What? You saw my HI towel collection?
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:19 PM   #13983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
What? I only charge $75 an hour for that!

I noticed that people in the UK tend to use the word castor and us'ins use caster. It may be legit; but, you used both in the same post...
No. I did that on porpose just to see if I caougt youse assleep.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:20 PM   #13984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Those suspension design boys in Detroit maybe drove an Austin Healey once and got scared by the "spinout king".

Hope I spelled AH right!
I had a TR3 once. You want to talk about under steer!!!
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:23 PM   #13985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
I had a TR3 once. You want to talk about under steer!!!
You want to talk understeer? I drive a FWD van...
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:23 PM   #13986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotyournumber
Are you guy’s real rc racers, or did you just stay at a Holiday Inn.
HA! Good one Mr. Ferrari!

Reminds me of the movie, "Flight of the Phoenix" where the German model airplane builder designs a plane from the wreckage and doesn't bother to tell anyone that he is just a toy airplane builder until they are ready to take off.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:34 PM   #13987
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Just for the record, 10 degree blocks make the car much more agressive, and 0 degree blocks make it more forgiving. For the reasons Crashboy said, with no caster decrease on compression (0 deg blocks) the car will steer less agressively going in.

Bill if it really feels the opposite to you, I would be interested to know why you drew that conclusion.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:52 PM   #13988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Just for the record, 10 degree blocks make the car much more agressive, and 0 degree blocks make it more forgiving. For the reasons Crashboy said, with no caster decrease on compression (0 deg blocks) the car will steer less agressively going in.

Bill if it really feels the opposite to you, I would be interested to know why you drew that conclusion.
Hey! Lay off Mr. Bill. We are trying to lure him away from the evil touring car cult. Besides, if it makes his car feel like an Austin Healy, I fully understand.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:55 PM   #13989
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oh yeah that's what i thought as well.
10 is more agressive,
0 is easier to drive.

but assuming the driver is Masami or Hara, is there any reason why a 10 degree block car can do a faster lap time than a 0 degree block car in some particular tracks or v.v.?
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Old 08-03-2005, 10:15 PM   #13990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Bill if it really feels the opposite to you, I would be interested to know why you drew that conclusion.
I started in 1/12th with Lex Tyler's 12L3 with 10 degree blocks (he used it for mod). Did not feel that the 10 degree blocks were agressive at all. Stable on straights; but, not agressive. Could have been the tires though.

For stock class, other drivers suggested I go with 0 degree blocks which I did for awhile. With 0's, initial turn-in seemed quicker for me; so, I compromised with 5 degree blocks which I continue to run.

Question back...For real road racing on tracks with long straights more caster can be more desireable for stability (same applies to drag racing). For auto-crossing, less caster is desireable for quicker response through many tight turns. What's the difference between 1:1 cars and 1:10 cars? Maybe, that's where I have something wrong...
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Old 08-03-2005, 10:20 PM   #13991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Hey! Lay off Mr. Bill. We are trying to lure him away from the evil touring car cult. Besides, if it makes his car feel like an Austin Healy, I fully understand.
Sorry boys...After the SJGP event, I am fully entrenched in TCs. Bought another JRX-S and trying to make it handle like my 12L4.

Oh, the Yok was a total bust. The pictures didn't do it any justice...for what was wrong. Lesson learned.
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:47 AM   #13992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Question back...For real road racing on tracks with long straights more caster can be more desireable for stability (same applies to drag racing). For auto-crossing, less caster is desireable for quicker response through many tight turns. What's the difference between 1:1 cars and 1:10 cars? Maybe, that's where I have something wrong...
It isn't different. You are confusing static caster and the number on the reactive caster block. The ten degree block does not mean 10 degrees of caster.

here it is straight from the 12L3 manual:

"CASTER CHANGE
The 0 deg mount is level with the chassis when mounted. The 10 deg mount is angled 10 deg in relation to the chassis or lower suspension arm. This angle provides a change in caster during suspension movement. The caster angle will change 2 deg during full suspension travel. Your car will steer more aggressively when using this option. The starting or static caster setting is changed using the Teflon caster shims. Static caster starts at either 2,4 or 6 degrees. A more detailed example would be a starting caster of 2 deg would have 0 caster at full suspension travel and a starting caster of 6 deg will be only 4 deg at full suspension travel."

There's a nice diagram in the manual you can look at in the pdf manual file on the AE website. page 16

and for the millionth time: 1/12th scale racing IS real racing!!!

Last edited by odpurple; 08-04-2005 at 01:01 AM. Reason: double post
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:54 AM   #13993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Question back...For real road racing on tracks with long straights more caster can be more desireable for stability (same applies to drag racing). For auto-crossing, less caster is desireable for quicker response through many tight turns. What's the difference between 1:1 cars and 1:10 cars? Maybe, that's where I have something wrong...
It isn't different. You are confusing static caster and the number on the reactive caster block. The ten degree block does not mean 10 degrees of caster.

here it is straight from the 12L3 manual:

"CASTER CHANGE
The 0 deg mount is level with the chassis when mounted. The 10 deg mount is angled 10 deg in relation to the chassis or lower suspension arm. This angle provides a change in caster during suspension movement. The caster angle will change 2 deg during full suspension travel. Your car will steer more aggressively when using this option. The starting or static caster setting is changed using the Teflon caster shims. Static caster starts at either 2,4 or 6 degrees. A more detailed example would be a starting caster of 2 deg would have 0 caster at full suspension travel and a starting caster of 6 deg will be only 4 deg at full suspension travel."

There's a nice diagram in the manual you can look at in the pdf manual file on the AE website. page 16

and for the millionth time: 1/12th scale racing IS real racing!!!
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Old 08-04-2005, 01:06 AM   #13994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Bought another JRX-S and trying to make it handle like my 12L4.
Well that'll never happen!

sorry you got ripped off on the YRX12 WE, you would have liked it.
isn't ebay great?!?
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:02 AM   #13995
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I've got a question for you 1/12 scale guys. I've put an old touring car up for trade online for a 1/12 car, and I've gotten several offers. Several for stock 12l3's (one was set up rtr, but with low end running gear), one for a 12l3 with a BMI chassis, one for a "fully hopped up" 12l3 with a bunch of blue factory team gear, and lastly a CRC Bloody knife 3.2. Assuming they're in good shape, what would be the ideal setup out of these for asphalt racing? Can anybody give me any info about BMI's 1/12 chassis, or the bloody knife? Thanks.
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