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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-02-2005, 07:15 PM   #13951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
How does the protoform Speed 12 body compare with some of the other high end bodies? I definitely like the gourney flap on it, that could make it easy to dial in some more traction in a hurry.
Its the ultimate asphalt body. Its had downforce in spades. Its a bit of a challenge to get everything under the body as it is seem to have been vacuformed over a ready to race chassis

For example you have to tip you battery solder tabs off to the sides of your cells at a 45 deg angle because if they point straight up and you solder your esc wires the body wont come all the way down...I'n not kidding .

I had to heat up my body over the Rx and push up a little swell to allow clearance for the servo, esc, personal wires to exit the top of my Airtronics Micro 2ch Rx. If I didn't do that it pushed my body up over the Rx.

Look at the pic of my car's chassis a page or two back to get an idea how low the body must sit.
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:22 PM   #13952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
I'm not running side springs at all
Wow! I haven't heard of anyone doing that yet! Would you suggest trying that for carpet too?
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:52 PM   #13953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotyournumber
You have never and never will beet me in mod.
But, he surely will in spelling.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:09 PM   #13954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Its the ultimate asphalt body. Its had downforce in spades. Its a bit of a challenge to get everything under the body as it is seem to have been vacuformed over a ready to race chassis

For example you have to tip you battery solder tabs off to the sides of your cells at a 45 deg angle because if they point straight up and you solder your esc wires the body wont come all the way down...I'n not kidding .

I had to heat up my body over the Rx and push up a little swell to allow clearance for the servo, esc, personal wires to exit the top of my Airtronics Micro 2ch Rx. If I didn't do that it pushed my body up over the Rx.

Look at the pic of my car's chassis a page or two back to get an idea how low the body must sit.
It's a damn good looking body, doesnt work well on carpet though?
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:21 PM   #13955
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Randy.....The speed 12 is higher down force body like Adrian said. They are run on carpet mainly in Mod or when the traction is lower, but itís really a driver taste type choice. The Parma Speed 8 feels faster in the corners IMO then the PF Speed 12. I like running with the PF Speed 12 when I run more then stock on carpet as it locks the car down more. I like them both and race with them both...they are for the most part the main bodies that are raced on about 90% of the cars on carpet. Just get both and try them out and see which you like better they are cheap enough.
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Old 08-02-2005, 09:16 PM   #13956
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Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
But, he surely will in spelling.
ok Bill your on the list now.
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Old 08-02-2005, 11:37 PM   #13957
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Originally Posted by gotyournumber
ok Bill your on the list now.
I've always wanted to be on "the list". Hmmmm...Is that "Buddy" or "Ignore"?

See you at Ripon if it's not too dang hot...
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Old 08-03-2005, 12:29 AM   #13958
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Bill,

That's the list of people he is NOT going to send a Christmas card to....

It's a very long list.



Chris
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Old 08-03-2005, 01:10 AM   #13959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K
Randy.....The speed 12 is higher down force body like Adrian said. They are run on carpet mainly in Mod or when the traction is lower, but itís really a driver taste type choice. The Parma Speed 8 feels faster in the corners IMO then the PF Speed 12. I like running with the PF Speed 12 when I run more then stock on carpet as it locks the car down more. I like them both and race with them both...they are for the most part the main bodies that are raced on about 90% of the cars on carpet. Just get both and try them out and see which you like better they are cheap enough.
My only problem is I only have the week of the vegas race for practice, trying to figure everything out ahead of time..
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Old 08-03-2005, 01:19 AM   #13960
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
My only problem is I only have the week of the vegas race for practice, trying to figure everything out ahead of time..
Unless you are running Mod get a Parma Speed 8 or Trinity Speed 9. 75% of the Mod guys will run a Speed 8 too. Vegas will have stupid traction so you wont need the downforce of the Speed 12.
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Old 08-03-2005, 01:56 AM   #13961
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I will be running mod. Does the Speed 12 just have stupid steering?
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Old 08-03-2005, 08:57 AM   #13962
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The speed 12 is perfect for stock, 19t and mod 12th scale. Also CEFX's new 12th scale body has a lot of downforce so it would be perfect for mod 12th.
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Old 08-03-2005, 10:11 AM   #13963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I will be running mod. Does the Speed 12 just have stupid steering?
It does have a lot of steering. Adrian is right, the Speed 8 should be the right body for Vegas. It's always my choice when I can't experiment.
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Old 08-03-2005, 10:20 AM   #13964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I will be running mod. Does the Speed 12 just have stupid steering?
Its not stupid steering its just that it has more down force....the speed 8 has more steering b/c it feels like it has less down force. With running mod both bodies will be ok either one you go with will work out fine but it would be wise to just bring both with and see which one you like.
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Old 08-03-2005, 06:32 PM   #13965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
not completely. Changing the reactive caster blocks and changing the caster are two different things. With 10 degree blocks the caster decreases as the suspension compresses, making turn-in progressively harder. With 0 degree blocks the caster does not change as the suspension compresses so this makes the steering feel less sensitive.
What you are adjusting with the white shims is the static, or un-compressed caster.
Sorry to bring back an old post, but i just read from this site (http://wcrccc.v21hosting.co.uk/setup%20theory.htm) it says:

Also, the bigger he caster angle, the bigger the camber difference induced when the wheels are steered. This camber difference is to compensate for the chassis roll and tire squirm when the car is cornering. Hence, a lot of caster will provide more steering in high-speed corners, where chassis roll is more pronounced, and whilst turning in. It will also make the car more stable in rough conditions, and the car's straight-line stabili ty will also be improved. A small caster angle will provide more steering in low-speed corners, and less turn-in.

So my understanding is, castor will give you more camber in high speed corner and help steering


So with the 10 degree blocks, the castor DECREASE at high speed corner so it should mean turn-in progressively softer not harder?

I'm confused now
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