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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-31-2002, 03:25 PM   #1381
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I only stock the ones that are mounted. I can always try and order foams only though. Yes, I do ship international.
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Old 08-31-2002, 04:30 PM   #1382
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Default Can this car cut it?

Anyone remember these? This is a Corally SP12 from the late 1980's.

I never owned one back in the day, but I was living in southern California and I remember seeing a guy named Fernando (Belair or Valair, I'm not sure of his last name) tearing up the old Hot Trick indoor carpet track with one. By the way, do any of you SoCal racers know if Fernando is still active?

By the time I got back in to racing, Corally's car was the Graphite SP12G, which I owned and really liked a lot.

I got this off ebay for cheap, just to have it. I didn't really think about racing it at the time, but Corally's current wheels and tires are still a direct fit, the car is in excellent condition, and I'd need only rear axle height adjusters, a front steering linkage set, and new tires to make it complete. All the parts I need are the same as the current ones, and easily available.

I don't expect it to perform anywhere near my SB12, but I thought it could be some fun for the Friday night club racing scene at the local track... most of the guys who race there haven't been in it long enough to have ever seen one of these.



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Last edited by Trips; 08-31-2002 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 08-31-2002, 05:09 PM   #1383
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You are making public your age Trips.
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Old 09-01-2002, 12:32 AM   #1384
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I know I'm old, but I like to believe that age and cunning can beat youth and quick reflexes. In 1/12 scale, anyway...

Trips
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Old 09-01-2002, 10:29 AM   #1385
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Default Servo mount - 1/12 scale

Does anyone have any info or knowledge on the correct relation of the steering servo ballstuds to the spindle ballstuds? Are the servosaver balls susposed to be slighly forward, parallel, or slightly behind the spindle balls? What do each of these positions do? Basically, how far fore or aft does one mount the servo? Car is a Asso. 12L3.

Trips: Name does not sound familiar to me (SoCal Raceway, Huntington Beach CA.) but Mark Anton might know.....Mark?
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Old 09-01-2002, 12:52 PM   #1386
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Hey Lee,

On any type of Pan Car Iíve ever had, Iíve always wanted mine mounted so that the servo saver is slightly farther forward than the steering blocks. In other words, the rods will have a small angle pointing backwards as they go from the servo out. See the pic attached below. I donít know if thatís 100% theoretically correct, but Iíve always done it that way.

Sounds like you and Trips are on the same page with that age and cunning stuff.

Did you ever get that logo I made for you?
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Old 09-01-2002, 01:40 PM   #1387
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Thanks Kraig, I am going to place an order soon, first have to check what is going with 12th scale here.
There are discussions that no championship will be run this year, or maybe we change the rules from 6-cell 880grams to 4-cell ???grams. How light are the cars allowed in the USA??

Does anybody know if CRC make their own tire compounds or do they sell Jacos?

What car would you prefer for a long, smooth track, the CRC CK or the Associated RC12L3 with the 4-cell YOKOMO conversion?

What are your opinions with a Rx pack? Should I use one with 4-cell, or are there some servos which can live without? Would you recommend 6 cells using the BEC of the ESC, or 5 cells going directly into the Rx.

Thanks
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Old 09-01-2002, 05:36 PM   #1388
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Well, I drove a six pack today. It was someone else's and I hav not driven a 1/12th since 95ish and a 2wd since 98ish. It worked well. I ran a pack with the Quantum and then with the Cyclone. The Cyclone hands down is far better out of the turns.
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Old 09-01-2002, 05:38 PM   #1389
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Dave,

I remember chasing those Corrally cars. Do you know if they still make those plastic disks under the body post to protect the chassis? That track in South Shore it nice.

Chris
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Old 09-01-2002, 06:23 PM   #1390
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Default warpspeed racing 12 scale

I heard about the warpspeed racing coming out with a 12 scale onroad car. Did anyone hear anything about it?
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Old 09-01-2002, 06:49 PM   #1391
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Quote:
Originally posted by raffaelli
Well, I drove a six pack today. It was someone else's and I hav not driven a 1/12th since 95ish and a 2wd since 98ish. It worked well. I ran a pack with the Quantum and then with the Cyclone. The Cyclone hands down is far better out of the turns.
Chris, you were at South Shore today? I almost went, but got lazy and slept in instead. Sure would have been good to see you.

They're going to be closed next weekend for the Chicago show, but I'll be racing there the following Friday. Hope to see you there...

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Old 09-02-2002, 06:52 AM   #1392
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Dave,

Yes I was out there. Your right, no racing this week. The crowd was small, about 8 in 12th. I am going to finish the season out in 1.8th onroad then move to 1.12th on Sundays. I guess the 1.12th crowd will pick up around the middle of October which is the end of the outdoor season. South Shore seems to be the palce everyone is talking about.
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Old 09-02-2002, 10:35 AM   #1393
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Default Warpspeed 12th

Warpspeed is coming out with a 12th scale chassis very soon. Should be awsome. Contact Schumacher USA for info.
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Old 09-02-2002, 04:41 PM   #1394
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Raffe- Hey how are things going? Just wanted to make a quick observation about the speedos. The LRP Quantum Comp. comes from the factory set on "Punch #2" which is for off-road. There are five punch settings on it with 5 being the most and 1 the least. You might want to check out which punch setting was on, my guess is that it was around 2-3. I have tried all of the settings and in Mod punch #4 is about max and puch #5 is crazy. I would say that compared to my Cyclones before punch #3 in mod is comparable to the 7.2khz of the Cyclone. The Cyclone you tried was probably around 5.6khz and could have been even lower with a lot of minimum drive. You can set the Quantum Comp. to have the same type of punch but again for modified I would suggest nothing past #4 but everyone's taste are different. One of the other nice things about the speedo is that you can adjust it without turning on the radio.
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Old 09-02-2002, 06:11 PM   #1395
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I had a Novak Atom,it blew up and i got myself a Quantum,which to me seemed a lot quicker etc,
what i would like to ask is,ive got a KO receiver and a 947pds servo,ive been competing in 5mins race ,so i hav'nt used a receiver pack,but the uk nationals are about to start in october and are 8mins, i guess id beter use one,ive got a 4 cell receiver pack would that last or is it important that its a 5 cell?
Cheers
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