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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-28-2005, 08:41 PM   #13906
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is300zx,
Novak smart tray does 1-6 cells and has adjustable cutoff from .1 to .9 also has dead short mode.
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:53 PM   #13907
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Wolf use to make some just for the 12 scale, i know they still make some for 10th but there a bigger id.
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:56 PM   #13908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
just a silly question, how do you know when the spring is toasted?
I've been using the same 0.020 spring for at least 30 runs (and countless crashes!!) but it still look okie to me when i last check it?
how to tell when i need to replace it?
The easiest way to check them is to compare them to a new one and see if there is a length difference. What happens when you crash is the springs gets compressed and they are made out of soft thin metal and they can easy get "collapsed" making the car drive and or tweak erratic. Sometimes they do not show signs of being collapsed but they are softer now from over working or heaving crashing. Its easy to just replace with new ones they are only like 2 bucks a pair. Most people I know buy them like 5+ at a time just because they can go bad so fast. Front springs are a lot like a T-bar on a t-bar car they can easily get out of wack and they are cheap enough to just replace if there is any question.
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Old 07-28-2005, 11:10 PM   #13909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
just a silly question, how do you know when the spring is toasted?
I've been using the same 0.020 spring for at least 30 runs (and countless crashes!!) but it still look okie to me when i last check it?
how to tell when i need to replace it?
If you built your front end right the e-clip should go over the spring with no preload and the spring should have no play on the king pin. The length of the spring is a perfect fit for the space on the king pin.

As Kevin said when they are blown out they get shorter and you can see it pretty clearly.
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Old 07-28-2005, 11:13 PM   #13910
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Got a question for the 1/12 electrical gurus. I'm wondering if there is an advantage to one of the 2 ways to wire in a reciever pack. One way is to take out the positive reciever wire from the ESC's harness, and use 2 switches to power the reciever, and esc. The other would be to just leave the ESC off, and use the RX pack to provide the power to everything, leaving the positive wire from the ESC harness in tact. Does it make a difference with either way?
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Old 07-28-2005, 11:49 PM   #13911
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info from a older post, i did way back:

this works with the LRP Q-comp & Q2 and Novak GT7 .

removing the red wire was something i only had to do on older ESC's

i have a old TEKIN 2 channel rec. i took the AMB transponder wires out of the plug, then routed/cut 2 1/8" channels into the plastic plug. soldered my rec-pack wires onto the top of the gold pins then reinserted into the plug. basically the rec pk and x-ponder are using the same plug. i add a Novak switch for the rec-pk. when i turn-on the rec-pk....... the ESC, servo, x-pond, & Rec turn on.

if you don't use a personal X-ponder just plug the rec pk into the rec. however if you don't add a on/off switch to your rec pk your car will turn on.

i did not pull the red wire from the esc to the rec. the switch for my LRP & GT7 does not get used (AND SHOULD NOT) so i removed it completely. i mount mine in a 3-2 hump config on the t-bar like the Trinity drivers used to on the SwitchBlade cars. the CRC and SM non-t-bar racers run then usually in a 5-cell flat stick config behind the servo

4-cells power the motor

5-cell micro pk powers the 4 (ESC, SERVO, REC & X-POND) items, also steering is quicker due to increased voltage

weight i don't believe is much of a issue. where i race AMB shop x-ponders (huge for a 12th scale) are used at every race. My personal x-ponder and the 5-cell pk probably weight the same +or - a few grams

i charge mine after 2 heats on a Noval Mil Pro charger at 1 amp and have had no problems on a pack that is over 1 year old. the car was raced twice a week for 6+ monsth to top that


NOTE: on some ESCs, if you remove the red wire going into the REC from the ESC....then your 4-cell pk powers the ESC and Motor. you have to turn on your REC PK first then the ESC. reverse when shutting down.

Not all ESCs are the same when it comes down to receiving power from the REC PK when the red wire is left in. in this config you may end up draining some of your REC=PK into the motor..........not sure

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 07-29-2005 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 07-29-2005, 12:37 AM   #13912
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What I'd like to do, is on my QC2 just cut off the power switch, and use a single switch in my RX pack to control the power of everything, should this be ok?

My Reflex arrives tomorrow so I'm just trying to figure out how everything is going to go together.
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Old 07-29-2005, 07:09 AM   #13913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
What I'd like to do, is on my QC2 just cut off the power switch, and use a single switch in my RX pack to control the power of everything, should this be ok?

My Reflex arrives tomorrow so I'm just trying to figure out how everything is going to go together.

I believe you are refering to the Quantum Competition 2. I have run receiver packs, 5 cells, with it a lot. I found I only had to connect the receiver pack to the receiver and use that switch to get proper function from the onboard radio system. I even tried a 2 cell LiPoly pack with the same configuration, but had servo trouble when using the Airtronics 94145 servo. I don't recommend the LiPoly battery unless you can drop the pack voltage into the 6 volt range. Good luck.
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Old 07-29-2005, 09:37 AM   #13914
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Better pics of the angled steering setup and my very purdy Hyperdrive Pro-12!
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-1-12-steering.jpg   1/12 forum-1-12.jpg  
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Old 07-29-2005, 09:44 AM   #13915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidl
I believe you are refering to the Quantum Competition 2. I have run receiver packs, 5 cells, with it a lot. I found I only had to connect the receiver pack to the receiver and use that switch to get proper function from the onboard radio system. I even tried a 2 cell LiPoly pack with the same configuration, but had servo trouble when using the Airtronics 94145 servo. I don't recommend the LiPoly battery unless you can drop the pack voltage into the 6 volt range. Good luck.
Cool thanks for the info.
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Old 07-29-2005, 11:13 AM   #13916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidl
I even tried a 2 cell LiPoly pack with the same configuration, but had servo trouble when using the Airtronics 94145 servo. I don't recommend the LiPoly battery unless you can drop the pack voltage into the 6 volt range. Good luck.
Thought you might like to know that this little gizmo exsists. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJF6&P=7

It has a switch allready biult in.
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Old 07-29-2005, 11:14 AM   #13917
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Randy-I do not recommend cutting off the speedo switch. It limits you to only using the reciever pack. Last season at a couple of club races I was unable to get the reciever pack charged so I just used the race batt to power everything for that run. Sometimes the little reciever packs false peak. I don't see that saving 2 or 3 grams on the switch is worth losing the insurance of being able to run the speedo normally, and you dont have to solder a new switch if you run that speedo in another car or sell it.
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Old 07-29-2005, 12:42 PM   #13918
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Randy,
Gotta agree with Chad, don't get rid of your esc switch. Just mount in a way that its hard to access so that if someone other thatn you turns off you car that dont use the wrong switch and end up letting all of the smoke out of your esc.

E
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Old 07-29-2005, 12:54 PM   #13919
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Cool sounds good, what is the best way to charge a rx pack anyway?
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Old 07-29-2005, 01:18 PM   #13920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Cool sounds good, what is the best way to charge a rx pack anyway?
My packs have a plug on them so I can use a female plug as a pigtail to connect to my charger. I use a CE turbo 35 set at .3 amps. You can charge the servo pack at up to 1 amp, but I've found that I get a better charge at lower settings like .3-.5. BTW I remove the esc switch, it just looks cleaner.
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