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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-20-2005, 09:20 PM   #13741
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I was almost kilt by the heat last week.
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:21 PM   #13742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
Josh or Jack,

What are the prices? Are they in stock anywhere? Can my local shop get them?
Superior Hobbies has them.......... 407.834.9299
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:22 PM   #13743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
so does that mean (2) is better than (1) ?
For the AE front suspension used on 95% of 1/12th cars figure 1 is the best setting. With the ball in the middle holes on a small Kimbrough servo saver and no shims on the steering arms on the spindles you will have neutral bump toe.

For carpet, guys will glue their servos flat on the chassis with Shoe Goo and point the servo saver up. This setup gives the car a lower CG and less Ackerman. Both things are good for racing on carpet. This setup will give you some bump toe out which you generally eliminate by putting spacers under the ball studs on the spindles or using the really long Trinity Switchblade ball studs.

No serious racer I know would space their servo above the chassis for any reason as shown in figure 2.
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:23 PM   #13744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotyournumber
I was almost kilt by the heat last week.
Good point...That too!
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Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:29 PM   #13745
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SpeedXL - Titan Tools. Available at your neighborhood Target
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What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:33 PM   #13746
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Those wrenches come in r/c sizes???
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:51 PM   #13747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
SpeedXL - Titan Tools. Available at your neighborhood Target
ROTFLMAO!
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Old 07-20-2005, 10:19 PM   #13748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
What do you mean? I have been close to kilt by some nitro r/c cars.
that's cuz yer old guy shuffle is almost as slow as mine.
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Old 07-20-2005, 11:01 PM   #13749
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Speaking of the Jaco 2 stage foams, I can't find any info on them anywhere. Does anyone have some part numbers? I'd like to try some of them.
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Old 07-20-2005, 11:06 PM   #13750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
that's cuz yer old guy shuffle is almost as slow as mine.
Mountain biking at 20 paces kiddo...
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Old 07-21-2005, 12:20 AM   #13751
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I posted this in the for-sale forum too but I figured someone here might be interested as well. Sorry don't flame me ...

I didn't wanna have to do this but here goes...

I don't see any immediate need to keep this car being that I only know of two other guys in my area that run 12th's. This car has only seen 4 practice asphalt laps, and is in PRISTINE condition. If you want to get started in 12th-scale this is the car for you. It's coming with EVERYTHING except radio with Spektrum module.

Here's the rundown:
CRC Team Red T-Fource... $225
Futaba MC800C speedo... $150
AMB personal transponder... $90
Futaba S9602 servo... $50
Spektrum receiver... $70
Fantom Team Stock motor... $40
2-Yokomo HV3300 4-cell packs... $80
Protoform Speed 8 body... $15
CRC EXP Speed 8 body... $15
Kydex Bumper... $5
CRC Center Spring Set... $7
CRC Red Alum 10-deg upper arm mount... $13
CRC Red Alum 5-deg upper arm mount... $13
CRC Alum Servo mount... $13
CRC Alum washer-front ride height... $2
CRC Graphite Servo-saver brace... $3
CRC 3/8 x 4-40 Cap head screw... $2
CRC Square nuts for servo mounts... $1.50
IRS Ride height adjusters... $9.50
Team Associated VCS micro shock rebuild kit... $4
Team Associated Blue spring for VCS-micro shock... $2
Kimbrough 96t 64p Spur gear... $4
Jaco pink fronts... $15
Jaco pink rears... $12
Jaco purple fronts... $11
Everything from the CRC Speed 8 body is NIP...........

I believe that's all of it. That's a little over $800 worth of gear. It might be a bit steep for some but $500 in USD will suffice. If someone has a better offer, bring it. I do accept paypal and money orders. NO CHECKS!!
Anybody have a Hudy Lathe w/DIAMOND BIT and Much More motor cooler and KO VFS-1 PRO COMPETITION speedo or anything comparable, 'cause I am willing to hear SOME trades.
Thanks for your time ... -JB
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Old 07-21-2005, 05:50 AM   #13752
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Tireman- of couse they are not hard to make. You just buy one of ours and reverse engineer it. The whole point is that it is OUR idea and we have taken steps to protect it. You should receive a letter from our patent attorney outlining our position soon. From here on out we can keep it off the message boards and let our lawyers handle it.
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Old 07-21-2005, 08:50 AM   #13753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
SpeedXL - Titan Tools. Available at your neighborhood Target
Adrian and carbuncle got yours right here!
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Old 07-21-2005, 12:53 PM   #13754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tireman
Jack this is Tony from T.M. Please send us any pertinent info on your patent for 2-Stage tires.
We will review it and if we are infringing on your patent we will stop production on our DUAL LAYER tires. If your already have the patent
please include the number. If it is patent pending we will need what the patent was applied for.

Josh I dont know what you mean we didn't have the technology in the 90's
our DUAL LAYER tires are not that hard to make they are just time consuming
since you have to do everything twice. We made our first DUAL LAYER tires in about 2 and a half days.
at a cost of about $150
TM - They are not hard to make but they are hard to make work right, at an economical price and not fail as these are now made to withstand 165 degree track temps with a 5 1/2 lbs car going 70+mph. I'm not going to speak of the troubles we've had - you can learn them all on your own.

speedxl - All of Jaco's wheels are being done out of new material that will make them a lot better than what we've had the past few years. The 1/12 rims are beefed up around the bearing boss on both the front and rear rims and the rear rims should be more true and I think Jack said they were working on the fronts to get them more true as well.
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Old 07-21-2005, 12:58 PM   #13755
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Hey Josh, where can I get a C12?
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