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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-18-2005, 04:46 PM   #13666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Wheel alignment tool (Niftech-for checking toe, camber, and centering of rear axle-you think you don't need this until you own one)
I checked out the Niftech alignment tool online. Looks pretty good.
Are there any others out there offering a comparable tool?
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Old 07-19-2005, 02:37 AM   #13667
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Default 1/12th in SF Bay Area

I was checking this thread out and I see there's a few here from the bay area. I was wondering where do you guys usually race your 1/12? I'm thinking of getting one but I don't really know much about 1/12. Is the 12L4 a good car to start with or should I look at something else?
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Old 07-19-2005, 08:50 AM   #13668
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AE is a proven entity in the 1/12th scale market, the fact that just about everyone uses AE components in their cars is proof. However, I really like the Speedmerchant Rev.4. Imo t-bars suck. They are inconsistant across the board and they break or stress out too easily. I check my tweak before just about every race, and only have to compensate for tire wear, not t-bar stress. Check them out; link.
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:52 AM   #13669
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Here we go again....
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Old 07-19-2005, 10:15 AM   #13670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by is300zx
I was checking this thread out and I see there's a few here from the bay area. I was wondering where do you guys usually race your 1/12? I'm thinking of getting one but I don't really know much about 1/12. Is the 12L4 a good car to start with or should I look at something else?
Cool!

Where do you live? There are several places to race. Most of them are a drive depending on where you live.

We are currently in our outdoor season. Modesto and Ripon have good programs as well as the Ground Pounders in Santa Rosa and Cloverdale. RCCAR also will run 1/12th if we can coordinate enough of us showing up to make a class. At Ripon two weeks ago we had two heats of 1/12th stock!!

In the winter months, we race at Stockton and Gilroy. Both indoor carpet tracks.

As for which car to get, there are a lot of them out there. Just a general rule of thumb: The more grip the track offers, the weight of the car needs to be more centered (low polar moment). First decide what type of racing surface you will be racing on and then pick your kit.

Once you try 1/12th, you will be hooked!!
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Old 07-19-2005, 03:34 PM   #13671
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I live in Daly City. Just a few minutes from RC Tech. I don't know what type of surface I'll be racing on. I been thinking of going to Gilroy or the new track in Vallejo. Is this a good deal by any chance?

Team Associated 12L4
IRS Pod Plates
Lunsford Axles
HPS Shock
$100 +shipping

Thanks for all of your advice.
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Old 07-19-2005, 03:49 PM   #13672
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can anyone explain what is the difference on my L4 if i:
1. don't use any grease/oil on the damper plate
2. use ball diff grease
3. use some even heavier grease?

and how about the center springs? is harder = more oversteer?

Thanks
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:07 PM   #13673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by is300zx
I live in Daly City. Just a few minutes from RC Tech. I don't know what type of surface I'll be racing on. I been thinking of going to Gilroy or the new track in Vallejo. Is this a good deal by any chance?

Team Associated 12L4
IRS Pod Plates
Lunsford Axles
HPS Shock
$100 +shipping

Thanks for all of your advice.
Yeah. That's a pretty good deal for the 12L4. You will have all of the basic parts if you choose to upgrade if and when you are ready.
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:11 PM   #13674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
can anyone explain what is the difference on my L4 if i:
1. don't use any grease/oil on the damper plate
2. use ball diff grease
3. use some even heavier grease?

and how about the center springs? is harder = more oversteer?

Thanks
You can get away with no dampening on the discs if you use some teflon tape or teflon discs. Without, and your motor pod movement could be sticky.
Using different weights of fluid on your dampener discs controls how fast your motor pod moves. The heavier the lube, the slower the pod moves. And for your last question: Yes. The stiffer the center spring, the more steering you will get.
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:12 PM   #13675
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oh also, where can i find a good servo saver for my L4? my one is broken and i can't find the AE one anywhere.
My friend's servo saver was also broken at the same place after a few runs as well (broke near the enlarged mounting hole), so is it a common problem?
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:12 PM   #13676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Yeah. That's a pretty good deal for the 12L4. You will have all of the basic parts if you choose to upgrade if and when you are ready.
Speaking of RC Tech, if enough of us get 1/12th cars, we could race there during the week. What say you OD & JRRC?
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:24 PM   #13677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
You can get away with no dampening on the discs if you use some teflon tape or teflon discs. Without, and your motor pod movement could be sticky.
Using different weights of fluid on your dampener discs controls how fast your motor pod moves. The heavier the lube, the slower the pod moves. And for your last question: Yes. The stiffer the center spring, the more steering you will get.
Thanks
some mroe question, so what's the difference in handling if the pod moves faster/slower? and what do you mean "pod movement could be sticky"?
i notice when my car turns in a corner, the movement is like turn-go forward-turn- go forward- turn -go forward -..... repeat... i.e. not smooth like my TC, is it what you mean by sticky?

also where can i find the hop-up parts for my L4? i heard there is magneisum motor mount and some other hop-up for the L4 but i can't find anywhere selling it? i'm from new Zealand so websites that ship internationally is my only choice.
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:25 PM   #13678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
oh also, where can i find a good servo saver for my L4? my one is broken and i can't find the AE one anywhere.
My friend's servo saver was also broken at the same place after a few runs as well (broke near the enlarged mounting hole), so is it a common problem?
Kimbrough, the gear people, make servo savers to fit all servos and is what most 1/12th racers use. I think that JRRC uses a Tamiya servo saver on his 1/12th that he swears by but I don't know the part number.

If you go to the Calandra Racing website, they make a graphite servo saver, saver, for lack of a better term. It attaches to the servo saver via the ball studs and nuts and prevents the servo saver from splitting between the holes. Dough Powell also makes a similar product which is very good.

OD is supposed to come out with a thin, spring steel version but I can't get him off his a$$ to go into production.
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:29 PM   #13679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Speaking of RC Tech, if enough of us get 1/12th cars, we could race there during the week. What say you OD & JRRC?
One problem with RC Tech is that they don't spray, so the bite may not be good for 1/12th.
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Old 07-19-2005, 04:37 PM   #13680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Kimbrough, the gear people, make servo savers to fit all servos and is what most 1/12th racers use. I think that JRRC uses a Tamiya servo saver on his 1/12th that he swears by but I don't know the part number.
.
Thanks Crashby, i'm looking at Towerhobbies's website now and they have so many different Kinmbrough servo savers, so which one is the one i need?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?&C=CMA&V=KIM

I'm using a KO digital servo

btw, is there any difference if i use the holes in 2nd row instead of the top one? what's the difference?
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