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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-16-2005, 02:10 PM   #13651
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Super Dialed, thanks.

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Old 07-16-2005, 09:35 PM   #13652
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Yes Adrian this is at "The Rink". As for tire traction, I talked to Tim before they were totally dialed on the VHT, and hr mentioned the tires building up with a coating, that said I have always run an old Florida outdoor standby, Goop hand cleaner. Similar to the suntan treatment.

It is easy to overdrive the car there. A few times I've had some grip problems but those were more track prep related.

As set I have a fairly tight diff but is smooth and free spinning, which is usually a good thing. The thing is this has a very similar feel to an old Delta diff or the 2WD SG gas car with a gear diff I ran long ago. I almost suspect the car is almost bicycling at times and as the inside rear lifts it limits the drive and settles the car down again. Also consider that when I ran an 063 tplate it was almost easy to turn in and just flip the car with a traction roll.

I do have a ton of new but old sealed green donuts I can test, I just have a funny idea that for 8 minutes you are going to need almost the same gear thruout the run, and fear the greens will get too small.

PK
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Old 07-17-2005, 12:24 AM   #13653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
Interesting comments about the pink rears. I had been making some changes to my L4 with thick chassis from discs to tubes as it seemed the rear was chattering and possibly lifting the inside rear tire. I've run both setups, damper disc and tubes with similar results.

The car is setup with

19turn
.020 fronts, preloaded for near zero sag
silver rear spring
30wt oil
.070 (measured) associated tplate with oem tweak screw locations
5* front with a shim on each side of the upper arm
Batteries aft.
camber for flat tire wear and zero toe in / toe out
Hand soap on rears, nothing on fronts.
Smooth high grip surface, with VHT.
I've tried both damper discs with teflon shims and 90wt silicone, plus thicker silicones, and also crc damper tubes with thick silicone.

The car runs well, and is definately responsive, it just seems that after the chassis transitions, it may be lifting the inside rear tire and winding up the diff.

I had Tim Potter run it also and he ran the car well, being less aggressive in his driving style though fast, but it still seemed to unload a tire.

Even with all this happening the chassis does not become upset enough to have the rear come around.

I persoanally want to say it needs more rear side spring control. Possibly put the CRC unitune back on running the tweak screws and side springs combined. Or build an old school type adjustable antiroll bar to allow quick change fine tuning of the Tplate.

Any thoughts?

PK
i run today at the carpet track in tucson, ran greys rears in the first round...no problems. put pinks on for the second round and had what you somewhat described plus twitching (grab & break) in the turns. i run a DP Q-12 with CRC parts, for the main i used tweak screws and the unitune springs, car was dialed and i was ripping till the dump monster realed me back, ended up second.

once our layout starts setting up a black groove for the current layout i will end up going either to a CRC graphite t-bar or the .74 thru .81 two stages ones i just got from teampowerpush.com to help reduce rear byte even more, keep the car running flatter in the turns

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 07-17-2005 at 12:38 AM.
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Old 07-17-2005, 12:54 AM   #13654
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PMK - I don't think "The Rink" (Its gonna stick ) is very abrasive. Greens may last longer than you think.

If you are running Mod you will have to make the pinks work. If you are running Stock or 19T you might be faster with less grippy tires.

You might want to go thicker on the T-Bar. The T bar you use is dictated by traction not surface. You can run a .075" T bar on asphalt if the traction is high enough. You could run it with just the two outer pod mounting holes for more forward grip if you need it.
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Old 07-17-2005, 07:18 AM   #13655
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Adrian, the car is setup with a AE thick t plate, it's actual dimension is .070, measured prior to install and noted onto the t plate with marker. It is assembled using two pod screws.

The idea of less grippy tire is noted, the objection being the the car runs well in all other portions of the track except the few turns that create this possible inside tire lift for only about a couple of feet max. If time permits I will try greens, I don't plan to order any so I will need to mount and true a set or two, just not much time to get it done right now.

Fast ho having what seems a similar type problem, and adding more roll stiffness to cure it is worth trying since it could possibly make other sections better still where maybe I don't notice it trying to lift the inside rear tire.

PK
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Old 07-17-2005, 10:13 AM   #13656
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OK, I know this has been asked sooooooooooo many times, but I am asking this today to make sure there are no better choices now.

Futaba 9650 or Airtronics 94145, still a good choice?
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Old 07-17-2005, 11:04 AM   #13657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritRacer
OK, I know this has been asked sooooooooooo many times, but I am asking this today to make sure there are no better choices now.

Futaba 9650 or Airtronics 94145, still a good choice?
Still good choices, but KO 949 is considered by many to be the best.
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Old 07-17-2005, 11:12 AM   #13658
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why is this a better choice?
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Old 07-17-2005, 11:31 AM   #13659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritRacer
why is this a better choice?
I've used all three and I think the 949 is superior for centering, and got less gear-slop with time. Many like it for it's speed, but I turn the speed down in most applications.
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Old 07-17-2005, 01:23 PM   #13660
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Our Hyperform 12 components are on there way and will arrive sometime later this week. We also now have aluminum damper tubes and 2-56 steel ballstuds (for damper tubes) available on the website. The damper tubes are CRC style and listed for $7.99 on our website!
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Old 07-17-2005, 03:47 PM   #13661
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1/12th.....

Just wondering if anyone uses (or if it's required) 1/12th setup boards, tire warmers and carry bags for the cars themselves?

If any of the above would come in handy could you let me know where I might be able to get them from. As the only ones I've seen online are for 1/10th TCs and don't seem to be adaptable to 1/12th.
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Old 07-17-2005, 10:59 PM   #13662
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I don't think set up stations are necesary, but boards are. The car is set to rear toe, but you can adjust ride height, camber, etc. with tire truing and parts. These cars are pretty basic in design, but tuning gets very creative. Guys do all sorts of stuff to introduce dampening, etc., but most of the settings are done without gauges. Oh, you should get some good calipers though for measuring.
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Old 07-17-2005, 11:19 PM   #13663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
Just wondering if anyone uses (or if it's required) 1/12th setup boards, tire warmers and carry bags for the cars themselves?

If any of the above would come in handy could you let me know where I might be able to get them from. As the only ones I've seen online are for 1/10th TCs and don't seem to be adaptable to 1/12th.
Here's some good tools to have, basic but usefull:

Ride height guage (Hudy or Integy)
Camber and caster guage (RPM)
Wheel alignment tool (Niftech-for checking toe, camber, and centering of rear axle-you think you don't need this until you own one)
Stainless steel scale (ruler) in mm (for checking track width)
and, as edseb said, a flatboard and some digital calipers

for the calipers check out Harbor Freight 6" calipers, they go on sale periodically for 15.99
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:14 AM   #13664
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I used diff lube on the damper tubes ands that fixed my double steer problem..thanks guys.
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Old 07-18-2005, 03:44 PM   #13665
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I am new to 1/12th and have a few Q's. I will be running CRC "Bloody Knife" on asphalt and carpet with a 10x2 mod moter and also a stock motor.

1. What range of pinions will i need?
2. Can i use spur gears from my Tamiya Evo 3 to save me buying another set of pinions?
3. Is there a standard way tyres are rated? ie are the color codes the same between brands and what do each of them mean?

Thanks
Terry
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