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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-15-2005, 11:41 AM   #13636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamatlas
hey OdD are you still running the hara ?/ i might make it out next week for ripon maybe ??
if so i will bring my hara out.
seeya
Dino
I've been running either the Hara or my Yokomo-come on out! 1/12th racing has been hot!
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Old 07-15-2005, 01:12 PM   #13637
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Dino race. i will have to see that. I was told you retired
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Old 07-15-2005, 03:29 PM   #13638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamatlas
steve have you tryed the multi faze charge on the pro track yet ??
I have not tried the multiphasic charge yet. While I understand the concept, I am not sure how to make that happen on my charger. Too many buttons.

CE: I know you have been using mulitphasic charging for a while now. Any conclusions? Unfortunately for stock motors, it's all about voltage. Any data that the voltage is higher using MP charging?
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:31 PM   #13639
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Crashby, Atlas,

The numbers say that Multi Phasic is slightly better in all areas - voltage run time and punch. i don't know if it is enough to be able to feel it on the track but my tests say it's better I'm using it all of the time now.

Chris.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:46 PM   #13640
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"LISTEN TO HIM" -JB
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:16 PM   #13641
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Default Damper tube question...

What are you guys running in you side damper tubes? I have been running 60wt silicone shock oil on my Hyperdrive but it seems to be double steering. It seems like it turns, rolls, looses grip, gets grip again then finishes the turn. It think it may be under damped.

I am running the following:

Rear:
Trinity Pink tires
.68 T-bar w/ two outer screws attaching rear pod and normal tweak screws
30wt oil in AE Micro VCS damper
Green AE spring
Alloy CRC side tubes
Full width suntan lotion for traction compound

Front:
Trinity Purple Tires
.020" springs
AE 12L3 front end 10deg reactive caster
~2deg caster
Red Stuff grease on king pins
Angled upright servo no bump toe at all
Inner 3/4 width Suntan lotion for traction compound
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What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:42 PM   #13642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotyournumber
Dino race. i will have to see that. I was told you retired
im going to try to make it i have been to busy to race. if not im going to dump all my stuff.
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:50 PM   #13643
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Adrian,

It sounds like you are way too underdamped. The springs on one side are compressing then pushing back but the damping can't slow it down enough to stop the rebounding from going to far so it's oscilating back and forth. 60wt is not even close to being enough. If you have the trinity light damping fluid (red cap) try that if not, try and get hold of some losi hydra drive fluid, I use heavy but that may be too much in CRC tubes. This stuff is difficult to get hold of though. you can try 10,000 wt silicon and see if that works, there is a few higher and lower wieghts which you can try too.

Chris.
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Old 07-15-2005, 10:18 PM   #13644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Adrian,

It sounds like you are way too underdamped. The springs on one side are compressing then pushing back but the damping can't slow it down enough to stop the rebounding from going to far so it's oscilating back and forth. 60wt is not even close to being enough. If you have the trinity light damping fluid (red cap) try that if not, try and get hold of some losi hydra drive fluid, I use heavy but that may be too much in CRC tubes. This stuff is difficult to get hold of though. you can try 10,000 wt silicon and see if that works, there is a few higher and lower wieghts which you can try too.

Chris.
Thanks Chris, Thats what I though.
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Old 07-15-2005, 11:01 PM   #13645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Thanks Chris, Thats what I though.
I've been trying some different tire compunds and have found that they have some relation to the cornering loading and unloading problem you described. My car did exactly as you said yours did with pink tires. When I changed to greens or aquas the car smoothed way out entering turns (and was bolted).
But we are all using heavier dampening than yours. I use about the lightest with 100 wt shock oil in the CRC tubes on my Yokomo. Ashby uses the heaviest, usually something like diff lube.
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Old 07-15-2005, 11:20 PM   #13646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I've been trying some different tire compunds and have found that they have some relation to the cornering loading and unloading problem you described. My car did exactly as you said yours did with pink tires. When I changed to greens or aquas the car smoothed way out entering turns (and was bolted).
But we are all using heavier dampening than yours. I use about the lightest with 100 wt shock oil in the CRC tubes on my Yokomo. Ashby uses the heaviest, usually something like diff lube.
at our asphalt track:

i had this issue also. purple fronts / pink rears, i was running a black spring, 30wt, .63 t-bar (2 screws). too soft for the amount of traction the pinks had. greys worked with this set-up but they wear way to fast.

to get the car to handle with pink rears i ended up with a green center spring, 40 wt in shock, .70 DP t-bar (all 3 screws), losi hydra drive fluid in tubes. this calmed down the over grab on acceleration. also instead of the pinks causing the rear to be in a grab & break traction status in the turns, the car feels like it's now in a controlled traction drift status. don't know how else to explain it, but it's a pleasure to drive.
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Old 07-16-2005, 07:57 AM   #13647
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Interesting comments about the pink rears. I had been making some changes to my L4 with thick chassis from discs to tubes as it seemed the rear was chattering and possibly lifting the inside rear tire. I've run both setups, damper disc and tubes with similar results.

The car is setup with

19turn
.020 fronts, preloaded for near zero sag
silver rear spring
30wt oil
.070 (measured) associated tplate with oem tweak screw locations
5* front with a shim on each side of the upper arm
Batteries aft.
camber for flat tire wear and zero toe in / toe out
Hand soap on rears, nothing on fronts.
Smooth high grip surface, with VHT.
I've tried both damper discs with teflon shims and 90wt silicone, plus thicker silicones, and also crc damper tubes with thick silicone.

The car runs well, and is definately responsive, it just seems that after the chassis transitions, it may be lifting the inside rear tire and winding up the diff.

I had Tim Potter run it also and he ran the car well, being less aggressive in his driving style though fast, but it still seemed to unload a tire.

Even with all this happening the chassis does not become upset enough to have the rear come around.

I persoanally want to say it needs more rear side spring control. Possibly put the CRC unitune back on running the tweak screws and side springs combined. Or build an old school type adjustable antiroll bar to allow quick change fine tuning of the Tplate.

Any thoughts?

PK
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Old 07-16-2005, 01:10 PM   #13648
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PMK - Are you running at Tim's new track? The surface there is very unusual and you may want to try a different rear tire to reduce traction a bit. Old fashioned Green Dot foam might be the way to go.

What traction compound are you using? IF you are using Paragon or some other "real" traction compound you might be getting too mush grip out of the tires. Try some Coppertone Water Babies 45. Coat the rear tires, let it soak in for as long as you can, the longer the better. Wipe it off with a tire rag until the tires are all clean (they may still feel slick, thats OK) ands go race. The suntan lotion will give more moderate, more consistent traction than "real" traction compounds.
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Old 07-16-2005, 01:31 PM   #13649
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Edit: Actually never mind, I found what I needed in a search lol.......

-Korey
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Old 07-16-2005, 02:05 PM   #13650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
Edit: Actually never mind, I found what I needed in a search lol.......

-Korey
Korey,

Check out Mike Lufaso's site, he has got loads of set-ups on that site with even more tips and tricks.
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