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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-23-2002, 07:52 AM   #1351
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We do sauce them every round, but if they're not cleaned between rounds the grip gets higher and higher each round. Consistency is key, you want the tires to feel the same every run, or else your car that TQ'd in the second or third round might be pig slow in the main.

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Old 08-23-2002, 08:37 AM   #1352
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Stika525...I wish i had a digital camera....I would show you how i modified my 12LW.....the 12L3 chassis is a little different than the LW, but i think it would still work...its basically the same system as the CRC , but it uses a graphite cross brace instead of a rubbber band..i'll try to give you a visual in words......1st. find the thick web that will sit between the cells..drill a hole about (for a 4-40 screw)3/16 of an inch in from the edge of the chassis(dead center on the thick web)you will need 2 skinny body post....(older assoc. style works well)...attach post to new holes(you may have to remove some material from the side of the post where the battery bar will touch)now you will neeed a small piece of graphite or f-glass(approx 3/8" by 5-1/4")(this will be the cross brace)drill holes in the end of the brace,so it will fit over the post......insert cells in chassis,slide brace across cells and over posts...push down brace and mark post for a hole....the hole is for a body clip that will hold the brace......"WALLA"...I have this on my 12LW and it has worked flawlessly...now, all you have to do, is remove 2 body clips pop off the brace and BAM...cells are out....no more tape...hope you get an idea of what i'm talking about....It would be great if Associated would modify the chassis for this...just a little dimple like the 12LW used to have for the body post....Associated...just remember where ya' got the idea from.....K
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Old 08-23-2002, 11:11 AM   #1353
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my wording in the last post was not very good. I was trying to say what if you DON'T sauce them every round, say like every other round? Or no sauce at all?
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Old 08-23-2002, 05:06 PM   #1354
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Well, I've never tried it, but I'd imagine that saucing every other round would be inconsistent as well, the rounds where you did sauce it would feel one way, the rounds where you didn't it would feel different.

This really only applies to carpet tracks that have a groove built up (tracks where the layout doesn't change often or that see a lot of use between layout changes) and get heavy groove built up. In many cases the tires come off the track feeling very sticky and gummy from picking up the buldup during the run. Cleaning between rounds or running a different set of tires each round are the only ways I know to maintain consistent handling throughout the race day.

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Old 08-23-2002, 07:17 PM   #1355
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I ONCE WENT TO A CARPET TRACK CLUB THAT DID NOT ALLOW TYRE Additive.never again!the car was impossable to drive,has soon has i put the power on it would step out side ways,i started cleaning my tyres with lighter fluid after every meeting & my tyres last a lot longer than before.i caint really aford to do them with motor spray/unless its a two day event.(thanks to darnold for the advice).
im a bit peed of-here in the uk they (BRCA) Are not allowing the 3300 batterys until next April
laterz
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Old 08-24-2002, 10:07 AM   #1356
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Stevie- ROAR hasn't made them legal here yet either as far as i know. The USTC has made them legal for the U.S. Triple Crown Series (Oktoberfast, Cleveland Indoor Champs, January Jam, Snowbirds, and Roar Carpet Nationals). By the time of the Roar Carpet Nat's(March) we assume they will be legal if not before.

Trips- Ran for Pro-Match, the guy is really nice and from what i could tell he was honest also.

Haven't bought any TRC Greys yet so i can't comment on how soft they are compared to last racing season. Wow, in another 4 weeks the new indoor racing season will be upon us for the U.S., time sure flies. BTW, Happy Birthday RC Tech.
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Old 08-24-2002, 10:10 AM   #1357
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Ohh boy: Drop the "yet". And when/if you see "there" instead of "their" or "are" instead of "our" or "where" instead of "wear" you know what i mean. Off to breakfast, no that would be lunch, no that would be brunch...you know what i mean guys. LOL!!!
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Old 08-25-2002, 06:19 AM   #1358
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Dave, aren't you on the board for the USTC? Please email me at leeda@tqci.net
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Old 08-26-2002, 08:06 PM   #1359
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i have a bloody knife and im looking for a new car any suggestions!!
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Old 08-26-2002, 08:29 PM   #1360
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Does anyone run the inline axles with the Associated front end? What changes can I expect in the handling if I change to them? I know the wheelbase will be extended by about 1/4", but are there any andvantages/disadvantages to running them?
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Old 08-26-2002, 08:53 PM   #1361
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your steering will get a lot more agressive.
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Old 08-26-2002, 09:52 PM   #1362
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I second that. More steering.
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Old 08-26-2002, 09:56 PM   #1363
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To be even more specific, you gain a lot of turn-in steering, but only a bit of steering otherwise. IMO, they make the car feel “wandery” in high-speed situations (sweepers, long straights) as well.
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Old 08-27-2002, 10:56 PM   #1364
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Hey all,

Sorry for not posting for so long... lots of stuff to do.

Darnold-Thank you for all the setup advice for my Trinity. I haven't incorporated all of the changes you have suggested yet, but I have been getting used to it and it is such a better car than my 12L3. I feel more confident driving it fast. My lap times have gotten better by at least a second, and I am moving more now towards racing rather than getting out of the way. Petenis and I both signed up for Octoberfast, are you planning on making the trek up here? Hope to see you.

That goes for everyone! Anyone whom is near Minnesota and races should check it out! It is a great chance to see lots of great racing, rub elbows( and the lucky ones-Lexan ) with the professional drivers/ factory backed guys.

How has everyone's racing been going? Petenis and I fought our cars and lost last weekend, and unfortunately, lost. I dumped early, and Petenis' car was not handling quite as well as he had hoped. We still had fun, but it would be nice to at least finish a race. I blew the endbell off of my 11X2 Core(CRAP!) by stepping out the rear end while trying to get around a lapper. I ran out of funds and grey rears, so I used green rears and didn't sauce them as long as I should have, and they scrub off a lot of speed in corners. I am going to start stocking up on tires and bonus pieces for the 'ol Trinity. Does anyone know of where I can order new chassis for my 2002 switchblade? My local hobby shop/tracks suppliers don't carry switchblade stuff. I delaminated the front in a wicked googlie with a steel pole. I have since put a band-aid on it but I would like at least a couple in the pit box if the untimely demise of my present chassis happens. Any help would be awesome. I am thinking that I will just have to bite the bullet and call Trinity directly.

Wheel on!
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Old 08-28-2002, 07:31 PM   #1365
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Now lets all wish Dave "Tigger" Arnold a happy b-day

Dave S....Im sure that Tigger will be going to the race well thats what he said last time I saw him. I will be going as will a bunch of guys from down here in IL. The Octoberfast race is an awsome race and you cant find much better track then what they have. I would check with Stormer Hobbies on that chassis they have alot of parts and the website is easy to get around.
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