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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-09-2005, 12:58 AM   #13561
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...so nowhere to get the C12 at all?
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Old 07-09-2005, 02:49 AM   #13562
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I think the eagle needs to spread its wings again -JB
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Old 07-09-2005, 09:23 AM   #13563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
I think the eagle needs to spread its wings again -JB
And I think the Eagle needs to convert over to a YRX-12 to do that...
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Old 07-09-2005, 09:50 AM   #13564
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Where's the defense buddy ... I'm guessing mincemeat is on the menu when the racing starts Is this what you call 'pot-stirrin'? -JB
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Old 07-09-2005, 09:54 AM   #13565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Where's the defense buddy ... I'm guessing mincemeat is on the menu when the racing starts Is this what you call 'pot-stirrin'? -JB
Hey, we have the same number of posts!

Oops! I'm in the lead.

Always racin'
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Old 07-09-2005, 02:16 PM   #13566
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I just built a new L4, there is no toe in/out on the set-up sheet so I assumed there is zero toe in/out. Am I correct?
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Old 07-09-2005, 02:38 PM   #13567
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odpurple-
I need some advice on setting the gear mesh on this T-Fource. It seems like the bottom of the rear pod is restricting me from moving the motor further to the front of the car. Do I need to shave some already spare material from it? -JB
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Old 07-09-2005, 03:05 PM   #13568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
odpurple-
I need some advice on setting the gear mesh on this T-Fource. It seems like the bottom of the rear pod is restricting me from moving the motor further to the front of the car. Do I need to shave some already spare material from it? -JB
OD is on his way to my house. We are racing tonight in Ripon at the annual Revo race.

You have to remove material from the T bar or change to a smaller spur to get the desired gear ratio.
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Old 07-09-2005, 03:10 PM   #13569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKlosi
I just built a new L4, there is no toe in/out on the set-up sheet so I assumed there is zero toe in/out. Am I correct?
It depends on how the car is handling. If you apply some toe in, the car will push a little which might be what you want if the rear of the car does not have enough grip. Or, if you are racing on carpet, you may want a little toe out to make the car turn in harder when entering corners.

Toe in or toe out is only a tuning aid. Use it accordingly.
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Old 07-09-2005, 04:33 PM   #13570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
OD is on his way to my house. We are racing tonight in Ripon at the annual Revo race.

You have to remove material from the T bar or change to a smaller spur to get the desired gear ratio.
THANX!!! -JB
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Old 07-10-2005, 04:16 AM   #13571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobS
Those are the Jaco 2 stage tires, they've been out for a little while now. I have a set but have not tried them yet.
part #'s?

can't find any place listing them and none of the sister companies using the same foam (CRC, Parma, etc) have anything listed either?
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Old 07-10-2005, 04:38 AM   #13572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Fast-

Haven't heard from Max lately, I'll email later toaday. I've been thinking about getting the CRC t-bar chassis (I can't recall the name) or I might buy a Assoc L4 and get the DP conversion OR I might get a 2nd jrXs for the rug. I can't deceide.

E
CRC T-Fource or DP Q12

still tossing and undecided about whether to cross to a T-bar. if you still have your red ed. CK. you don't need a 12l4 to get a Q12 set-up and going. just get a t-bar, t-bar pivot parts, t-bar spacers (3 in bag)......you have all the rest. the Q12 uses the CRC adjustable servo mounts, dampner tubes, etc. other than that if you just want a new car, i would get the T-Fource

anyway didn't see you today?

Cory had his CK dialed today i only had 8 feet on him at the end of 8 min. i ran my Q-12 tape edition (CRC parted) tape ed. Shawn ran a silver Q12 (Yok parted). 2 others there today had 12ths.........didn't run
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:56 AM   #13573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
does anyone have any experience with the CEFX car? I was thinking of trying one out but I haven't heard of anyone's experience with the car and that funky front end

i have a c-12, it is a greatcar, very simple to work on...the only part i broke(twice) last winter was the front bumper...both were my fault....other than that i love the car....

i got mine from www.kthobbies.com, however, josh is a bit behind, so they dont have any....but if you give kraig a call, he will know more....

matt
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Old 07-10-2005, 02:53 PM   #13574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
CRC T-Fource or DP Q12

still tossing and undecided about whether to cross to a T-bar. if you still have your red ed. CK. you don't need a 12l4 to get a Q12 set-up and going. just get a t-bar, t-bar pivot parts, t-bar spacers (3 in bag)......you have all the rest. the Q12 uses the CRC adjustable servo mounts, dampner tubes, etc. other than that if you just want a new car, i would get the T-Fource

anyway didn't see you today?

Cory had his CK dialed today i only had 8 feet on him at the end of 8 min. i ran my Q-12 tape edition (CRC parted) tape ed. Shawn ran a silver Q12 (Yok parted). 2 others there today had 12ths.........didn't run
Nope had to work, I'm also at work now (sunday), but I did go by there today to take a look. Also, nope I don't have my red CK. So I need a car period.

I think that I'll get the T-force. Is this car a traditional t-bar car or is the t-bar only used to connect the rear pod to the chassis? I think its the latter as the t-bar is graphite not fiberglass.

Anyone have any opinions on the T-force? JayBee have you run yours yet?

E
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Old 07-10-2005, 04:40 PM   #13575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Nope had to work, I'm also at work now (sunday), but I did go by there today to take a look. Also, nope I don't have my red CK. So I need a car period.

I think that I'll get the T-force. Is this car a traditional t-bar car or is the t-bar only used to connect the rear pod to the chassis? I think its the latter as the t-bar is graphite not fiberglass.

Anyone have any opinions on the T-force? JayBee have you run yours yet?

E
Yeah I ran mine today for a total of a one glitch-riddled, no traction, continous 360-degree spinnin' half-throttled run Weather was nasty today- so there was about 30 of us standing in the rain to wait it out. I tell ya, nothing but good times 3 hours later the rain subsided, the track dried up but it was too late to 'really' set the track up. So we just just set up a huge oval and gave it a go. BUT WAIT!!- JayBee forgot his T-Fource AND radio So I rush home, get back to the track, start charging my packs and it starts to rain Wait it out some more. Batts charged, rain subsides and on the track we go...BTW, there's no grape soda or anything on the track- straight parking lot. To sum up a wasteful day, Spektrum's glitchin', spent a little over $100 and went home. I'll have a report next week. Sorry guys... end rant -JB
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