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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-21-2002, 02:33 PM   #1336
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graphitedust-
i don't mean the set of tires is bad, just that they need to have a chance to dry out well. So if you have several sets they don't get over saturated with dope. Try cleaning w/ motorspray after you run too.
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Old 08-21-2002, 03:02 PM   #1337
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Which 1/12?

Even though the 1/12 cars are not first choice here in The Netherlands, I want to start a small racing group here this fall/winter. I normally drive 1/10 Electro touringcar. Question now is: which car should I choose. Most easy to get are either Corally or Associated (is this the same as the Yokomo) or the not so famous Accademy. The Trinity or any other brand is close to impossible to get through the European market, should I should order this through Internet which is because of spare parts etc. not preferred by me. Which car would you 1/12 diehards prefer? Either 6 cells or 4 cells?

Thanks!
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Old 08-21-2002, 03:20 PM   #1338
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Car choice is a personal preference. I really donít think you can go wrong with either the Corally or the Assoc. one.

The Yokomo 1/12th is more or less based on the 12L3 but with the battery location specialized for 4-cell racing.

IMO, 4-cell is the way to go for 1/12th. Itís becoming/has become the international standard for the class.
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Old 08-21-2002, 05:55 PM   #1339
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Thumbs up Re: Which 1/12?

Quote:
Originally posted by Arnoud
Even though the 1/12 cars are not first choice here in The Netherlands, I want to start a small racing group here this fall/winter. I normally drive 1/10 Electro touringcar. Question now is: which car should I choose. Most easy to get are either Corally or Associated (is this the same as the Yokomo) or the not so famous Accademy. The Trinity or any other brand is close to impossible to get through the European market, should I should order this through Internet which is because of spare parts etc. not preferred by me. Which car would you 1/12 diehards prefer? Either 6 cells or 4 cells?

Thanks!
Hi Arnoud how are you?
Ive got both cars (Corally SP12M & Associated RC12 L3),persanally i prefer the Corally,especially if your new to 1/12th has i find it the easest car to set up,i can vertually chuck it on the track & it preforms.also Corally's factory is in the Netherland's,which should make it much easyer to get spares,and i find Corally factory(Yoko) to be very helpful with questions etc,the RC12 L3 is a exellent car & very fast if you maintain it well.I dont know much about the Trinity car ,but what ive seen of it when set up well is unbeatable.also in the U.K the Calandra carpet knife is starting to become popular and at an exellent price.So all in all its up to you!!with the right driver all the 1/12ths at the moment are equally matched.I started 1/12th last year and know i find T/C to slow and boring!!
!!GOOD LUCK!!
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Old 08-21-2002, 09:02 PM   #1340
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I just bought my second Carpet Knife!!! This car will be for carpet only. I got an unbuilt Bloody Knife 3.1se for only $110!!

So should I start with the kit settings?
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Old 08-21-2002, 09:22 PM   #1341
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Hey everyone- Just finished a Federal/State Covention that my two partners and I were keynote speakers and it really went well. I'll be up hear at the office for another week it looks like. All of you guys are really putting up some good stuff. Great job guys, now if only one of you would help me drive my car better.LOL, hehehe

Xpress- Brian B..... is that you??? LOL! If It is, what's up dude?? Did you hear from Billy B. yet?? How's your racing and Fernando?

RobK- Of course I faked it, wouldn't you??? LOL!

DaveL- Yeah I know what you mean. I actually wanted to have the later date also but the track and rest of the USTC Com. thought this date was best and I support them. I still think this will be a really good race with lots of participation. Hopefully the date change won't be seen as too much of a conflict or downer, I don't think it was planned with that intention. Hope to see you there DaveL.
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Old 08-22-2002, 11:24 AM   #1342
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Thanks for the info. Now it's even more difficult after I have seen the Carpet Knife Looks great!
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Old 08-22-2002, 05:43 PM   #1343
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Tigger.....man o man could I have fun with that first statement but you are a religious man so I will keep it kosher for ya. Keynote speaker what were you talking about, how to fake a shoulder injury when you get whooped by a 19 year old punk in flip flops, with your own club in a pitching contest.

Anyway are you practicing at all this weekend I would like to come and throw some insults at ya as you try to drive your car around the track. Anyway let me know b/c i would love to get some lap times for ya and see how close you are to Josh's pace at Cleveland last year Im kidding its just too much fun sometimes thats all. I will be out at Trackside sunday testing new hot secrets that I cant let anyone in on.

Later
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Last edited by Kevin K; 08-22-2002 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 08-22-2002, 09:08 PM   #1344
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Well fellas,

All of your suggestions worked! Except for adding caster. After making all the other changes, (.075 t-plate, .020 springs), the additional caster made it too responsive. But at stock settings, 2*, this thing slices and dices! Just wanted to thank you for your help. Only thing I don't like about the 12L3, hate is better, is having to use that *&%^#$!%>@*&% tape for the batteries.
If I cant get use to that, it's gotta go! anybody find any creative ways to get this done easier?
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Old 08-22-2002, 09:41 PM   #1345
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I know that GraphiteDust uses some velcro straps and they work okay on a smooth surface.

I used to hate taping batteries, but I got used to it.
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Old 08-22-2002, 10:12 PM   #1346
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Trips- Glad i could help, let us know how the 9turn runs with new cells. May I suggest SMC 3300's?? Did you ever get in touch with Wind Tunnel Racing concerning the graphite pieces and when they will be available for the 02 Trinity Car?

Kev- News Flash*** Last night I was able to do some pushups again so soon I hope to play a round and challenge Pauly to a rematch. LOL!! About practice I won't be able to make it. I really wish I could get from up here but I won't be able to leave until middle of next week it seems. Just too much coming up (all with very good consequences) that I am having to participate in. Now you dooooo knowww that you're going to have to come up off of the secrets and give them to RobK don't you(hey wait a minute you have to give them to me too now that I think about it, LOL)??? BTW, do you know if Pat bought the track and if the new sub-floor has been put in? Should be back by next weekend, do you think we can go to Trackside then or is that the time of the Hobby Show?

Stika- Glad your car is working well. i think the .18's were much of your problem since they are soft and were compressing too much under load.
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Old 08-22-2002, 10:33 PM   #1347
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I expect the 9 to run great with my new cells, I decided to go with 3300's from ProMatch. Nothing at all against SMC, the shop I work at deals directly with ProMatch.

Wind Tunnel didn't say when their stuff for the SB would be available, just that it wasn't yet.Looks like I'll sit out racing this Friday, but next week I'll have my front end part from Trinity and some new race packs...

On another note... has anyone bought grey rears from TRC lately? Did they seem a little on the soft side? I bought a set last week, and they felt much softer than I expected, I'm wondering if that helped make the car feel a bit inconsistent...

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Old 08-22-2002, 11:49 PM   #1348
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So you guys are saying that if you scrub out a set of foams with lighter fluid, even if they have been sauced to the point of being too soft, they will be back to their original durometer when they dry out?

Also, by lighter fluid, do you mean lighter fuel? as in a cigarette lighter? or like to light a charcoal grill?

Thanks!
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Old 08-23-2002, 12:11 AM   #1349
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duck,

It's not so much that they get too soft, they get stickier and stickier as the night goes on if you sauce them each heat. The sauce residue builds up to the point that there's just too much grip by the third or fourth run. If I don't have several sets of tires with me, I'll clean the tires with lighter fluid or motor spray after the run, and sauce them again for the next when the time comes.

I use cigarette lighter fluid, Ronson or Zippo are the two common brands around here, or motor spray.

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Old 08-23-2002, 12:23 AM   #1350
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why not just not sauce them every round? personally I haven't been running any traction compound at all but I am racing on asphalt, might change when I start racing on carpet this winter.
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