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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-27-2005, 08:04 PM   #13456
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I wasn't sure if the Phaser did or did not as I got my first Delta circa 84 and it was a Super Phaser.

Crashby, Magnesium is good in many applications. It could be used for several things on the 1/12 chassis, like Associateds right side pod they offerand even the opposite pod and standoff spacers. As for Ti pods it could be done, but for any savings of weight they would need a Jenny Craig program compared to aluminum. The 6061T6 series most aluminum components are made from is not very exotic and is typically a non aerospace and more industrial alloy. Pods made from 2024, 7075, or better still 7050 are more reasonable choices for upgrade. They are quite a bit stronger, basically the same weight, good thermal properties, and easy to machine.

I did a little looking in some leftovers I had kicking around and found a small peice of Ti. A friend that also runs 1/12 was talking about it with me today, we both agree this is something that just needs to be tried. Time will tell.

PK
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:59 PM   #13457
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AE made a right side magnesium pod plate awhile back for one of the 12L series cars.

Yokomo had L & R lowered lightweight magnesium motor mount plates listed for the YRX12 about 2-3 years ago


as for titanium it is unique, TI weights more than AL. TI made items require alot less material to equal the same strenght as AL. thats where the weight savings come in.
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Old 06-28-2005, 04:59 AM   #13458
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Hey Guys,

I was in the market to go 1/12 and heres my option list so far

Yokomo YRX-12 WE
CRC V3.2
Associated 12 L4

I really like the yoke and i know they are quick, my only problem is finding the worlds edition with al the blue alloy parts. If anyone knows a site that sells what im after at a reasonable price can u let me know

Thanks in advance
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Old 06-28-2005, 08:27 AM   #13459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIMO
Hey Guys,

I was in the market to go 1/12 and heres my option list so far

Yokomo YRX-12 WE
CRC V3.2
Associated 12 L4

I really like the yoke and i know they are quick, my only problem is finding the worlds edition with al the blue alloy parts. If anyone knows a site that sells what im after at a reasonable price can u let me know

Thanks in advance
Stormer Hobbies have them in stock for $239.00 and you will probably not find a better price anywhere else.

Click on the link below.

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:48 PM   #13460
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The story goes that Gil Losi Jnr was the first person to put a Delta T-bar back end on an Associated front end, and went on to win an IFMAR Worlds with the car. Associated adopted the design as the 12L - L standing for Losi.

Also at this time, Associated's 12L copied the Delta system of having the cells sit in the chassis saddle-style, whereas the previous 12i had the cells stick-style, suspended from the radio plate above the chassis.
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Old 06-28-2005, 02:14 PM   #13461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIMO
Hey Guys,

I was in the market to go 1/12 and heres my option list so far

Yokomo YRX-12 WE
CRC V3.2
Associated 12 L4

I really like the yoke and i know they are quick, my only problem is finding the worlds edition with al the blue alloy parts. If anyone knows a site that sells what im after at a reasonable price can u let me know

Thanks in advance
Dimo,

If your running on carpet you will not want the Yok as that chassis is designed for asphalt... not that you couldn't.

E
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:56 PM   #13462
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Does anyone know someone that could make an exact duplicate of a chassis I already have? Found someone local but he wants a bit more than what I'd consider reasonable.
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:36 PM   #13463
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Have you tried BMI? They do custom work for some, but honestly I can't say how their pricing is.
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:46 PM   #13464
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Alright guys, looks like I'm in the market for another 1/12 scale. My L4 was recently stolen. The thief was caught, but unfortunately the car was sold off to someone in U.K. already. So guess I'm looking for another one. I don't want another L4 though, because I had some unwelcome complications in the building process, mainly the thing that ticked me off was the standoff posts. If anyone here has switched from an L4 to a Carpet Knife, can you guys give me opinions between the two? Greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-29-2005, 06:36 AM   #13465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Does anyone know someone that could make an exact duplicate of a chassis I already have? Found someone local but he wants a bit more than what I'd consider reasonable.
I've done duplicate and prototype chassis' for quite a few people. It helps if you have a CAD drawing of the existing chassis. Most of the time spent on producing a chassis is in creating an accurate drawing. I'm curious, what do you consider reasonable?

D.P.
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Old 06-29-2005, 11:56 AM   #13466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPowell
I've done duplicate and prototype chassis' for quite a few people. It helps if you have a CAD drawing of the existing chassis. Most of the time spent on producing a chassis is in creating an accurate drawing. I'm curious, what do you consider reasonable?

D.P.
Sent you a PM, look forward to hearing back from you.
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Old 06-29-2005, 01:45 PM   #13467
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There have been tons of link cars and modified T-bar cars but the conventional T-bar car always seem to be the way to go. Sure the T-bars can break and they to wear out over time but unless you crash your brains out all the time T-bars are pretty consistent.

FYI, the fastest CRC guys run the T-Fource with tweak screws and no side springs...just like the 12L3/4. Why, because it works better that way.
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Old 06-29-2005, 08:15 PM   #13468
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DP, do you only cut from your own stock of composite, or are you willing to cut carbonfibre that is customer supplied? This is 100% carbonfibre not a fuzzy carbon kevlar hybrid.

Any thoughts on replicating the AE tplate in titanium if the material were supplied? Unless you have the alloy needed in stock then it would make sense to sell it out the door.

PK
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Old 06-30-2005, 06:57 AM   #13469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
DP, do you only cut from your own stock of composite, or are you willing to cut carbonfibre that is customer supplied? This is 100% carbonfibre not a fuzzy carbon kevlar hybrid.

Any thoughts on replicating the AE tplate in titanium if the material were supplied? Unless you have the alloy needed in stock then it would make sense to sell it out the door.

PK
PMK,
I have cut customer supplied material before. Not a problem.

The titanium T-bar might be another matter. It can be difficult to work with but I think we give it a try. What thickness do yo have in mind?

D.P.
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Old 06-30-2005, 11:10 AM   #13470
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Adrian,

I have started to run mine like that recently. I haven't nailed the set up yet but I don't run it that often. I'm running the MS2.2 car right now (t-bar car) and it's fantastic on asphalt when I can get the the tire sauced right.

Chris
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