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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-22-2005, 03:30 PM   #13426
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Yip 540 stock is all good, as long as it fits in the 1/12th, having never tried I have no idea if it would.

Hope you enjoy it as much as I do
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Old 06-23-2005, 04:33 PM   #13427
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Ok guys, I'm new to 12th scale.
I just aquired a new never ran Yokomo YRX-12WE, is this a good car?
Any where I can go for set up info on this car?
And any mods or aftermarkets I should do or get for the car?
Thanks
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Last edited by 1armed1; 06-23-2005 at 04:34 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 06-23-2005, 05:22 PM   #13428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
Ok guys, I'm new to 12th scale.
I just aquired a new never ran Yokomo YRX-12WE, is this a good car?
Any where I can go for set up info on this car?
And any mods or aftermarkets I should do or get for the car?
Thanks
Dayton
I have a YRX-12WE that I have raced for the last couple of outdoor seasons. It is a great asphalt car. My team mates are both running hybrid versions of the same car and we all agree it's the best car we've tried outdoors. Post what kind of track you are running on, and whether it's stock or mod and we can give you a starting set up.
There are some must do modifications for the car, and some that are nice.
First and most important is to replace the small ring diff. The stock one is really pretty and all but small ring diffs don't work well. I put an IRS big ring diff on the car so I could have blue. I converted my car to damper tubes, I like that tuning possibilities better with that set up. I had trouble finding Yokomo t-bars so I switched it to an Associated t-bar and pivots (Yokomo and AE pivots have different bolt patterns, but they both mount without modification). This season I replaced the t-bar with a Silva spring steel one; it's nice not to have to worry about breaking the t-bar.

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 06-23-2005, 05:31 PM   #13429
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What are the spring steel t-bars like? Do they handle the same as the normal ones, say equivalent to a .075"? I've thought about getting one but will it ruin the handling of the car?
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Old 06-23-2005, 05:45 PM   #13430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seano
What are the spring steel t-bars like? Do they handle the same as the normal ones, say equivalent to a .075"? I've thought about getting one but will it ruin the handling of the car?
I am running the car on asphalt, so wanted an .063 t-bar equivalent. The Silva Medium t-bar feels the same to me as the .063 fiberglass bar. I've heard some people say they didn't like some characteristic or other about the spring steel bar, but my car feels better than ever right now. Try it! It holds the tweak really well and won't break!
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Old 06-23-2005, 05:51 PM   #13431
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I got a question for the experts here, where do you buy the threaded front axles for the 12L4? I have seen a couple of cars at our local track with them but they bought the cars used and they came with them. I have been debating on the spring steel T plate as well. I have been fortunate to only break a couple of the fiberglass ones myself. Just stay off the boards and you won't break!! Yeah RIGHT!!
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Old 06-23-2005, 05:54 PM   #13432
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Check http://www.teamcrc.com they sell great threaded front axles. I would go with the titanium ones though as I broke a few of the steel ones
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Old 06-23-2005, 05:59 PM   #13433
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odpurple, I will be running indoor on new ozite from calandra.
Mainly stock, maybe some 19t or mod occasionaly.
What are the benefits of the damper tubes and where can I get them? Part numbers would be great.
Thanks
Dayton
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Old 06-23-2005, 06:00 PM   #13434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I am running the car on asphalt, so wanted an .063 t-bar equivalent. The Silva Medium t-bar feels the same to me as the .063 fiberglass bar. I've heard some people say they didn't like some characteristic or other about the spring steel bar, but my car feels better than ever right now. Try it! It holds the tweak really well and won't break!
Sounds good, will try one soon. My CRC Six Pack is sitting here gathering dust, am thinking about using that on asphalt and the knife just for carpet.

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Old 06-23-2005, 07:09 PM   #13435
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also, what is the popular tire selection for ozite?
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Old 06-23-2005, 08:00 PM   #13436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
odpurple, I will be running indoor on new ozite from calandra.
Mainly stock, maybe some 19t or mod occasionaly.
What are the benefits of the damper tubes and where can I get them? Part numbers would be great.
Thanks
Dayton
I only run this car on asphalt, but a standard t-bar set up for carpet should work. For stock try .020 or .022 front springs, 5 degree caster blocks, 4 deg static caster and purple tires in the front. In the rear use an .075 t-bar, blue or red AE shock spring with 40 weight in the shock and grey tires. For damper tubes use Losi heavy Hydra Fluid or Mugen 7k wt diff oil (anything viscous works, get a variety of fluids from the LHS and experiment). For damper discs do the same. In mod go to pink tires and maybe soften the rear up a bit. Ride height 3mm rear 4mm front on a smooth track, higher for bumps.
This should be a mellow, easy to drive set up, but it's only a starting point.
Damper tubes allow you to set the fore and aft dampening independently from the side to side. It just works better for me.
I used CRC tubes on my Yokomo, Part number 1369, short damper tube. For Blue ask for blue in the check out area (or send an email).
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Old 06-23-2005, 08:03 PM   #13437
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1armed1 - Purple/Gray is the ozite combo that works for us

Yeti35 - Lundsford makes them too. Steel ones do break too easy

odpurple - I asked some of the oval guys here and they said that the steel t-bars can get kinked and then impossible to tweak but they do last.
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Old 06-23-2005, 08:10 PM   #13438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claydoh

odpurple - I asked some of the oval guys here and they said that the steel t-bars can get kinked and then impossible to tweak but they do last.
I'm sure that's true, since they are so strong, they would never work after being bent. My team mate has been using one for two seasons now and has never been able to bend it!
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Old 06-23-2005, 08:19 PM   #13439
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thanks for the info guys.
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Old 06-24-2005, 08:08 PM   #13440
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I just bought a 13x2 hara V2 and would like to know what springs/timing you should run for 12th and what springs comes with the motor. Also how many degrees are the knotches on the peak can?
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