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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-21-2005, 07:18 PM   #13411
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I understand caster, I come from a 1:1 racing background. Just the way oddpurple was wording it is what threw me off, when he says "two to the front" he means two shims in the front. I took it to mean that he was putting two shims at the rear of the upper arm. Postivie caster is when the top of the kingpin is leaning towards the rear of the car. Negative is just the opposite.
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Old 06-22-2005, 12:28 AM   #13412
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A quick question about rollout....

I'll be getting my first 1/12th car soon (and only my second on-road car since getting back into RC nearly a year ago) and I have a question about rollout.

I understand that rollout calculators are only theoretical as they don't take into account aerodynamics and track surface etc etc but as a starting point if I use the same rollout in 1/12th as I do in my TC (540 stock) then both cars should have the roughly the same top speed correct?

Just wanted a starting point as I intend to use a 540 in 1/12th for a while (and my TC is plenty fast enough for my local track at the moment for my skill level/experience etc) before maybe trying pro stock and other faster classes.

Mabuchi540
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Old 06-22-2005, 12:43 AM   #13413
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yeah if you got 2 cars with the same rollout and using the same motor, then if we don't worry about air resistance/friction..etc then they should have the same top speed.

But unless your 1/12 is six cell one... your motor speed will be mucher lower because of the lower voltage and therefore your top speed will be lower too
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Old 06-22-2005, 01:40 AM   #13414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
yeah if you got 2 cars with the same rollout and using the same motor, then if we don't worry about air resistance/friction..etc then they should have the same top speed.

But unless your 1/12 is six cell one... your motor speed will be mucher lower because of the lower voltage and therefore your top speed will be lower too
True but wouldn't the fact that 1/12th cars weigh about 700 grams less make up for (or more than make up for) the voltage difference?
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Old 06-22-2005, 02:18 AM   #13415
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weight will affect the acceleration of the car but it has very minimal effect on the top speed.
The aerodynamic drag, friction, power loss thru the drivetrain are three of the biggest factors that affect the top speed (assuming power is constant).
So assuming your TC is a 4WD, and the TC shell usually has a much higher aerodynamic drag than the 12th scale cars.. so the top speed of the TC will be lower if both car has the same motor, same battery and same rollout.
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Old 06-22-2005, 02:31 AM   #13416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
weight will affect the acceleration of the car but it has very minimal effect on the top speed.
The aerodynamic drag, friction, power loss thru the drivetrain are three of the biggest factors that affect the top speed (assuming power is constant).
So assuming your TC is a 4WD, and the TC shell usually has a much higher aerodynamic drag than the 12th scale cars.. so the top speed of the TC will be lower if both car has the same motor, same battery and same rollout.
Yeah it is a 4wd TC with a rollout of 45.126mm. I was hoping that as a starting point I would try that number on my 1/12th but if as you say the lower voltage of the battery (yes it is 4 cells x 3700mah) will not be countered by the lower weight of the car.

Then I just guess I'll have to take a stab at a suitable rollout. Somewhere on these forums someone suggested a 38/100 spur combo but that would give a rollout of 59.6 which seems rather high for a 540 considering the hightest I've run was 50.8 at the nationals and that was rather hot lol.
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Old 06-22-2005, 02:39 AM   #13417
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now i have to say i'm new to 12th as well so what i said maybe completely wrong.. but the 12th is much lighter, got less friction and has much lower drivetrain lost so in theory you should be able to run a much larger rollout. Also because the fact it's only powered by 4 cells, the motor can take more punishment than when it was powered by 6 cells..

but yeah it's just my thoughts.. so correct me if i'm wrong.

btw, are you from Auckland ??
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Old 06-22-2005, 02:42 AM   #13418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
now i have to say i'm new to 12th as well so what i said maybe completely wrong.. but the 12th is much lighter, got less friction and has much lower drivetrain lost so in theory you should be able to run a much larger rollout. Also because the fact it's only powered by 4 cells, the motor can take more punishment than when it was powered by 6 cells..

but yeah it's just my thoughts.. so correct me if i'm wrong.

btw, are you from Auckland ??
Well what you said makes sense to me, the less strain because of the 4 cells never occured to me.

I'm from the Manawatu club.
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Old 06-22-2005, 02:54 AM   #13419
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hey guys, i want to get parts for this car. it's a 1/10 pan car, some of you might remember it. do you know of anybody or any website where i could find parts? thanx

Last edited by billtc3; 11-10-2009 at 04:48 AM.
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Old 06-22-2005, 10:36 AM   #13420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billtc3
hey guys, i want to get parts for this car. it's a 1/10 pan car, some of you might remember it. do you know of anybody or any website where i could find parts? thanx
I have seen this car before but have no idea where to get parts. You might try asking the guys on the "10th Pan Car " thread on the "Oval, Larger Scales and More" forum here on RC Tech. There are a few racers over there that are quite knowledgable about these cars.
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Old 06-22-2005, 10:56 AM   #13421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
Yeah it is a 4wd TC with a rollout of 45.126mm. I was hoping that as a starting point I would try that number on my 1/12th but if as you say the lower voltage of the battery (yes it is 4 cells x 3700mah) will not be countered by the lower weight of the car.

Then I just guess I'll have to take a stab at a suitable rollout. Somewhere on these forums someone suggested a 38/100 spur combo but that would give a rollout of 59.6 which seems rather high for a 540 considering the hightest I've run was 50.8 at the nationals and that was rather hot lol.

Let me offer something from my experience. When you get the 1/12 scale car fully competitive and efficient, your fast lap should be around .3 seconds faster than the touring car. I suggest pinion/spur combinations of 28/100 to 31/100 if the straight is between 70 to 90 feet long. This is using the Trinity stock motor based as the Monster Horsepower motor. The Epic Stock 27T motor is about 2-3 pinion teeth lower than the MH. The Trinity P2K2 is maybe 1-2 pinion teeth higher than the MH. I don't know what you mean by the Mabuchi540, but if it is different than the ROAR 27 turn stock motors I mentioned about, then there will be some deviation to this info. What is the spec to the Mabuchi540 so I can iterate this information. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-22-2005, 11:09 AM   #13422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidl
What is the spec to the Mabuchi540 so I can iterate this information.
David,

I think he's referring to something like this:

http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-b...AT_ID=rk_370sd

I haven't seen one of these in about 18 years!
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Old 06-22-2005, 02:52 PM   #13423
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Brian, I got your input. I think if they are running this motor with 3700 batteries, they could run a 15 minute race. I am hoping they will see the advantage to moving over to motors such as the ROAR stock formulae so they can experience the wonderfull performance these motors offer. Bare in mind that the current ROAR stock motors run as fast in the current 1/12 chassis with the new batteries as the full modified motors ran in 1/12 scale in 1996. I am privy to data from some radar measurements that support that.
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Old 06-22-2005, 02:54 PM   #13424
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Believe it or not we actually have two classes here that use that kind of stock motor.

http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-b...D=rs_540rhshsf This is the exact motor we use

As far as TC goes we have Stock(motor above), ProStock (like your stock), then Modified (12T limit), and Super Touring (Modified using lola type bodies). The other "stock" motor class is mini, as in Tamiya M-03's. Then there's pro12, any motor, 4 cell only. Most run 9 or 10T in pro12 here

So yeah, lots to choose from
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Old 06-22-2005, 03:18 PM   #13425
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Default Yeah but......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seano
Then there's pro12, any motor, 4 cell only. Most run 9 or 10T in pro12 here

So yeah, lots to choose from
I'm too old for that lol. According to our 1/12th rules the only types you can use are any limit as you say or 540 stock types.

"opened end bell with replaceable brushes or 540 stock as mentioned in the off-road rules"....or something like that anyway which technically would mean if I wanted to use a Tamiya sports tuned in an official event I couldn't.

So until I can be bothered/afford the extra work looking after a mod requires it 540 stocks for me.

As far as the 15 minute races are concerned, actually I think 19 minutes might be possible as I can get 8 min now at race speed out of my TC with 1500mah packs.
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